El Andrew

Either way - my parts still haven't shipped. Will have been two weeks on Saturday. I messaged them earlier in the week and they said they expected them to ship Wednesday but hasn't happened yet.

Nice work and good to hear. I reckon I'll take a bit more than that in the driveway!

Just had a guy in a job interview say he took three antihistamines this morning for hayfever. All interview long I've got Queens of the Stone Age in my head... Nicotine, valium, vicodin, marijuana, ecstasy and alcohoooool. Cocococococaaaaaine

Nice, thanks. I reckon once I get past the last couple of house jobs and sort a couple of things on the car, it's high time I grabbed a Pulsar GTX and got back into the tuning a bit more

Looking again, wouldn't it move your injectors tips away from the action a bit?

Anyone tried these? I reckon it would be worth it just for how fiddly and flimsy a standard gasket can be https://www.tiperformance.com.au/products/ba-bf-fg-falcon-4l-barra-phenolic-spacer/

5-7mm according to the instructions that came with my Superpro kit. Common view seems to be to go with the Superpro hybrid for much better longevity than the factory ones. Subject to how long you plan on keeping the car - check everything else out too. Bushes or replacement arms are relatively cheap compared to the labour to pull the cradle a second or third time. My upper arms have flogged bushes as well as my diff bushes so am going to do it all at once. Doing the lower control arms as well

Definitely! Had another dig around and can't find anything damp on the cover. I guess either way the balancer is coming off and the seal is cheap. So might plan for that and have a fresh tube of sealant ready to go once I have the balancer off. Should throw a new balancer on too if I'm going to the effort - still has the factory one.

Thanks mate. Yeah everything above there seems dry.

Still dripping on the driveway. Went over it with a torch and inspection camera. Good news is the rocker is now completely dry and the head gasket seems to be too. So I cleaned everything down again underneath and came back 20 mins later. Crank seal?

They were way better when they first started. The only way you'd be happy to wait 8 weeks is if you were getting something unbelievably cheap.

Decided to, um, go full send on my rear end. That's a diff bush kit, upper control arms, lower toe arms, and inner and outers bushes for the lower control arms. I put Superpro replacement trailing arms in a year or so back. Will all have to wait until my finger is a bit better but it's all ready to go nonetheless . Got to say that Automotive Superstore were very good to deal with. Part of my order was delayed and they were very communicative before I even asked. Also were great with price matching. By contrast I ordered a couple of fittings off the Sparesbox eBay store on Saturday and they haven't shipped yet. Has happened with them before.

Sounds nice! I think I was thinking by doing the breather I'd keep the cooler and piping nice and clean. Yep that other line goes back to the intake before the turbo. Had another bung welded into the pipe but hidden by the BOV return. I don't get much out of my drain either. Mine just has a bolt and a hose clamp under the car!

Thanks! The battery relocation and turbo side airbox definitely is a better look and much easier to work on. Only the breather goes into the catch can, not the PCV. Can't remember now why I did it that way. That little hose next to the airbox is the header tank hose. The fatter one is the BOV plumb back.

Finally did the rocker cover seal to eliminate that. Was definitely leaking but remains to be seen whether or not the head gasket is leaking too. I removed the the intake manifold so I could get a good look and also clean everything down. Intake gasket had a fair bit of oil soaked in it so definitely was a substantial leak above the head/block join so fingers crossed. Good news too is that I thought the rear main was leaking but seems pretty clear underneath that oil is running down the side of the block and along the bottom of the sump. The rear main was done by a mechanic recently so under warranty but still no fin asking someone to do a big job again and having no car for a couple of days. So anyway, rocker cover gasket sorted, everything clean, and we will see from here whether it needs a built motor or not.

Not out of the woods on that front yet - I'll update the specific thread I had for that

All done. Had a few issues to sort at the time/later: -One of the rocker cover bolts was snapped. I didn't have time to sort it and presumably has been a long time like that, so just put some gasket goo under it to make sure it sealed and went again. Have ordered a replacement ready for when the cover is ever off again but will have to extract the broken bit obviously. -As above the breather elbow split coming off so replacement stuff coming -One cam solenoid connector broke on the way out and another on the way in. No big deal but will repin new ones next time I do spark plugs - Dopey me didn't check the seal was seated properly. At least I thought to check the next morning. Had caught up the back so had to undo it all and reseal. Plus wait 24 hours again for the silicone to dry at the top of the timing cover. All running and leak free. I changed my intake manifold gasket too as it was soaked in oil. Fark doing that job again in a hurry.

Yeah will have a bit of a classic DJR look. @biddie_fiddler haha the breather connection disintegrated on me today when I was removing it [emoji23] Ordered the Raceworks push ins and AN to 1/2 inch barb adaptors to suit the hose running to the catch can. Anyone know the trick to refitting the VCT thingos? They are extremely hard to push through the seals - both the new ones and the one that are on there. Have sprayed a heap of WD but don't want to damage them...

Thanks mate! I'll take a pic once I've installed it. I figured on my setup I'm not really have any issues with the factory setup and didn't want to introduce any fitment problems with the coil cover. If I wanted to go with different lines for the breathers I think someone makes AN adaptors to push into the factory ports anyway.

Picked this up at the powder coater this morning - came up even better than I was expecting

https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/93211-dsc-issues/

Hope it keeps improving mate. I tried to talk the doc into letting me run, but he said no as the jolting wouldn't help the finger fracture heal. So I scored this on FB.

Some bloke said this... https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/96915-tps-diagnosis/?do=findComment&comment=1717500

No worries. Not sure on voltage - I *think* they both fluctuate between 0 and 5 volts but someone else might chime in. I think as long as you saw the voltage move as the pedal moves you'd be happy as a first round check. You definitely can't use the 4 bar reg on your NA tune without causing issues. A new reg is only 60 bucks or so but I reckon the reg is less likely to be the problem.

I reckon that lean code is where to start looking. I've had a car (albeit a Toyota, not my Falcon) with a similar code. Was a bit easier as it was reporting both banks were lean which eliminated a faulty O2 sensor or blocked injector as they would have triggered just one bank. That car drove a bit the same - sluggish until throttle widened a bit. I reckon if you had a blocked injector it would be running rough. The u1900 is a pretty common code.to get triggered by a scan tool so I think ignore that for now. Things I would try (without being an expert) : -pressure test the fuel system to check for weak pump, blocked fuel filter or faulty reg. Or if your fuel filter is old no harm in putting a new one in anyway. (Fuel filter was my issue. Happened again so I dropped the tank and cleaned it and problem gone) -get a multimeter out and make sure you are getting voltage changes from the pedal and at the TB which will isolate loom/TB/pedal position sensor -check vac lines for damage or loose connections