El Andrew

Thanks mate. I've set up a tune file that is stock except for the injector data which I'll chuck in before I go to work. Will treat it nice cos of the dump and cat. I guess if the fuel trims are spot on then it was a tune issue, and if there's no change I have a hardware issue.

Thanks mate. Yeah I guess I just assumed I was chasing a hardware problem but maybe not. That's a good idea to put in a stock tune with F6 injector parameters and see how it idles from there. I'll also do a comparison with the stock strategy to see if I can see anything obviously funky that's been changed. I'll get in touch after that!

Hey guys. Not a huge problem, but this one has me scratching my head a bit. I've got negative fuel trims at idle in the 5-10% range (moves around a bit, but that generally where the LTFT settles). Car is a FG XR6T which until the weekend was tuned by a workshop under the previous owner, standard injectors, X-force cat and dump, K&N air filter and no other drivetrain mods. Car had the above fuel trims and occasionally goes a bit rough at idle when putting it into gear. Over the weekend I put in reconditioned F6 injectors (no known issues with existing injectors, but was concerned they were a bit maxxed out in the tune and wanted a bit more headroom) and given the above issue, thought a new fuel pressure regulator wouldn't hurt either. Issue is still there and maybe slightly worse. I really thought a faulty FPR or a leaking injector may have been the cause, but it seems not. Other info/observations: O2 sensor is new I also out new plugs in on the weekend, but the old ones looked fine and identical to each other No misfires, fault codes, etc On my BA (which had the same wideband in it) it would quite rapidly oscillate between extremes of lambda 0.98 and 1.02 at idle. On this car, the extremes are more like 0.96 and 1.04 and seems to take longer to bring them back into line. On mild acceleration, the trims trend back towards zero (obviously heavy acceleration is irrelevant as the car goes into open loop) but it has to pull fuel again once off the throttle Disconnected the pipe to the airbox on the off chance the filter was clogged and restricting airflow, but didn't change the trims Engine temp data looks all good, so don't think it is a temp sensor or thermostat issue triggering a cold strategy. Fuel economy is good. When I bought the car in July and then again before the warranty expired in September it had a full health check including compression No fluid contamination or loss Car seems to go very rich on heavy throttle, like more than what is being commanded in the tune Plenty of power, throttle is responsive - if it wasn't for me having the WB in the car and also looking at fuel trims is never suspect there was an issue (other than the occasional rough idle). So overall it seems to have some fuel control issue but also I seem to have eliminated the main culprits? My thoughts on next checks are: Maybe there's an aftermarket pump in it that is too much for the reg? Unlikely given stock injectors, but you never know. I've got a near-new Walbro 255 I kept from the BA to out in, so might as well do that and eliminate something else. Clogged return line resulting in excess fuel pressure? If I do the pump I can point the return line at a container and see if it is returning plenty of fuel at idle. Pressure test the fuel system Pull each injector plug and check the impact on trims? If one leans the trims more than the other maybe that one isn't firing reliably? Given the issue exists on two sets of injectors it might be a wiring issue rather than injector in that case. Any suggestions on other stuff to check? Sorry for brain dump!

Click on your post in Tapatalk. An edit icon then appears up the top. Edit: like this

Yeah I should as my suspected cause there ain't the cause. Went F6 injectors (reconditioned, bought from Pitlane). Tune in the car must be maxing the living sh*te out of the stock injectors so this will give me a bit more of a safety margin. I'll then tweak the tune for a bit more, do the pump and probably run it up on the dyno somewhere with knock ears etc to make sure I've ended up with something safe. I'm currently getting my long term trims pulling fuel (and have a new O2 sensor) so chucked the FPR in for good measure. Keef, Puff is talking 'bout PCMTEC forum. Edit: whoops post cross over

Went out to fit new spark plugs. Ended up fixing my wideband, installing injectors, replacing the fuel pressure regulator and cleaning the throttle body. No spark plugs fitted. I'll do that tomorrow and flash in the tune for the injectors. I thought my wideband sensor was dead. Plugged in a new one and no luck. Turned out it was a bad crimp connector. Resoldered all the wiring and it is all good. Spare new sensor now I suppose. For what it is worth, AEM confirmed for me that the Bosch 17025 LSU 4.9 sensor and the AEM-branded LSU 4.9 sensor are samesies. Just buying the Bosch is about half the cost, so might help someone else sometime knowing that. I suspect it is the same for Innovate, etc too. Given my sensor has been driven around for a couple of weeks unheated, I suspect I'll need the new one sooner rather than later.

Was just in a meeting and checked the F1 app for live timing of FP2. Forgot I had live pit radio messages switched on...

That's good you aren't doubling up, but doesn't make it any cheaper!

I thought it worked like: Third party insurance - covers other people's property (eg you rear end a Merc) Comprehensive - third party, plus your property (the car you were driving when your rear ended a Merc) Compulsory third party (via rego) is for injuries (the Merc driver's whiplash or your head smacking the steering wheel) which is not covered by your private comprehensive. So CTP and private comprehensive and insuring different things? I might be wrong though.

$1150 in the ACT (including CTP) for a Falcon-sized car. Y'all don't know when ya got it good!

Diff bushes Hiflowcatnotttuned

Read the address carefully...

Speaking of IT and emaily things, I just had to email the team that looks after Exchange within the Operations area of our IT provider. Their email address started operationsexchange@ Did lol

Haha this exactly. I'd wager I massive percentage of small business would be using Gmail but with their own domain name. As if Bob's Building is running his own email server.

Is that a Cavoodle? My folks have one and it was a total it until about 2 years old. But good news is it has calmed down a bit since.

I spoke to them when I first looked at getting the BA tuned but wrote them off on the first phone call. At that stage I just wanted a tune on stock injectors to suit my cat. They said I needed to buy 1000cc or it would blow. When I said I just want it tuned safe on factory injectors they said the car will make whatever it wants to make, then you chuck in injectors to suit. But that might have been sales pitch more than actual idiocy, so I can't really comment on how good they are when they actually sit down with the lappy and the dyno. Out of the places I've spoken to, Jake's Performance seemed sensible and knowledgeable. Quite a few people here recommend CMS as the nearest decent tuner! I've seen a couple of high boost low power grenades getting around Canberra.

1/4 NPT. Did it a while ago and used this one: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F301858483365 This assumes your gauge fitting is 1/8, like the oil pressure sender for my gauge was. I agree with some of the above though - a free mechanical gauge isn't great value if something fails and leaks in the cabin.

Haha I thought this, scrolled down and then saw you'd had the exact same reaction!

Arrived on Friday. So far, so good. Pretty easy to work with once you read the programming instructions. I ordered the MX version with Ford CAN option for some preloaded gauges. This includes trans temp and you just need to edit one parameter to change it to Celsius. There's not heaps of information out there about Ultragauge, but there is about Scangauge, including heaps of configurations for OBD parameters not included on the device by default. This is useful as the Ultragauge includes information for converting known Scangauge configurations to Ultragauge. I also found something to convert Torque to Scangauge, so with a double hop anything you can see in Torque is theoretically achievable without getting too sophisticated. I got trans gear sort of working in the driveway this morning, but for some reason will only show gears 1 to 4. Instructions have some debugging info which will be my next step. Learning more about hex and bytes than I intended but not too bad once you get into it. Also the standard OBD parameter for coolant temp fluctuates between -40 and the actual coolant temp on our cars. Scangauge have an alternative configuration to fix this on their website, but converting that to Ultragauge isn't working for me yet. If anyone else grabs these and wants to nick my settings, let me know. Once I sort them out a bit more I'll post them as there is almost nothing on the web that's directly usable.

Read it recently in a book "Case for Faith". But is a quote from mathematical physicist Robert Griffiths.

It is a common misconception that faith and science oppose each other - they are actually coming much closer together over time. In my view, God created the world and science tells us a lot about how it happened. Believing in an intelligent designer and believing in the big bang, for example, is not inconsistent. I read something recently that was funny - atheists are targeting the philosophy departments in universities when setting up debates about whether God exists. The physics departments are useless because over the course of their careers they keep becoming Christians.

Oh wow I can't unsee that...

@bloodycrashboy haha yeah I thought that after I posted - not a job for your pristine garage floor!

If you can change your oil it isn't a big leap to flushing a trans [emoji106]

Time for a ZF service?