El Andrew

That's like laughing at people who buy shares or investment properties. You spent money so that you could earn it back? Idiots! Solar is no different - upfront spend for a future expected benefit that exceeds the spend. It is just that the benefit is a cost saving rather than income or capital gain.

Hope Rab is talking about the dogs not the kids...

Yeah dunno. I guess I could replace the sensor and switch it back on to see what happens in the name of science. An example of one thing I read: https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/37442/is-the-after-catalyst-oxygen-sensor-used-for-engine-mixture-control

Sorry no pics! Yeah I assumed the switch off was always to prevent a CEL due to cat behaving differently. I didn't think the sensor actually played an active role in engine management. Doing some reading though suggests I was believing a common myth. Proof is in the pudding though I guess as it definitely made a difference!

Well, I'm going to cautiously call this one fixed. Fuel pressure tested fine on Tuesday, but the mechanic did a very thorough check over the car and a bunch of electrical testing. Found the downstream O2 sensor voltage was all over the shop. He reckons that most modern cars do use the downstream one to either a) correlate with the upstream sensor and adjust if there are variations and b) make adjustments to keep the cat operating conditions correct. He suggested replacing the sensor. Checked afterwards and the second O2 sensor is still active in the custom tune that was in the car when I bought it. Given the aftermarket cat probably fluffs the readings I've just switched it off as most people seem to do anyway. Fuel trims have been almost perfect ever since. Obviously fluctuates a bit as you drive but settles down close to zero at steady cruise and idle. Also I'd noticed that when stationary the car would sometimes just catch a near stall, or would actually stall when moving from N to D. That has gone now. Also the mechanic had a HiAce with a turbo 1JZ.

Friday indeed! Busy as heck at work all week so nice to be nearly at the weekend.

FTFY

How old was that article? Back when the Prius was new I used to scoff at the environmental pay back time (I think it was 8 years, and battery life was a max of 10 years so the benefit was marginal). However I read a few things lately (and I think there was some Engineering Explained stuff on this in relation to the Leaf) that shows they are much better now and while the original Prius wasn't great it mainstreamed the technology and allowed further r&d. The timeframe of the assessment matters too. If I assessed your solar after the first 12 months I'd find it had cost a ton of money and had hurt the environment. You need the long term environmental and cost savings to offset the initial damage. Having said that, the Prius is crap to drive and I would never own one!

Friends were looking after another friend's labrador on the weekend. Dog ate a bunch of rotten plums off the ground. Mate counted he cleaned up 21 runny dog sh!ts off the deck on Sunday morning

Hey does anyone know if the fuel module wiring connector on FG is the same as BA? I'm talking about the wiring in the tank between the pump and the module, on the module end. Once my current tank of fuel gets low I'm going to put the Walbro GSS341 that had only done a few months in the BA into the FG. If I need to cut the wiring and re-crimp, then I'll do my research before hand to make sure I have crimp connectors that are fuel-proof. If they are the same connector, I'll just use the wiring from the BA as those connectors were the ones shipped with the pump.

Did you say once you were near Canberra or did I imagine that? I've got some spare B-series rear lights if you want to try them (or even the globes) to eliminate that. You can have them if they work, but would seem odd that you cooked both sides at once.

If you have some spare I'd just move on unless you then find it gives you a rattle. You are probably more likely to create more problems or rattles if you go removing heaps of stuff to find the clip. I lost one of my handbrake boot yellow clips when I removed it, so just popped a new one on.

Keith I can't find my keys. Where are they? But more seriously - if you can't find the clips then there are lots of online car fastener places that sell that sort of thing or eBay.

Champion maths debater at school?

You guys are all master debaters

Use of the term Camry was highly offensive

While as Dan said actually finding something on here that interesting/entertaining/intelligent was getting difficult I hadn't even thought of the impact on mods. Wow keeping up with all of that must have been a full time job!

Quality work for reporting back mate!

Thanks - will be more useful now if someone else has the same issue. Thanks for removing our friend's post too! @Puffwagon yeah tried that - smoke test says no. Lean fault codes on both banks, electrics tested, upstream O2 sensors changed, vac lines replaced. The intank fuel filter is due for replacement (which requires seat removal) so planning to check the fuel system out fully then. Is a dead head setup so reg is in the tank as well.

It is a good point. Keith/Rab if you can be bothered, negative fuel trims at idle word be a better description for the title. What pisses me off is than I/mechanic/Toyota can't find the positive LTFT cause in the Kluger!! I think I should just average the trims of both cars and be happy.

Flashed in stock tune in the school car park this morning and then drove to work. No change to trims so I think the tune not the cause at this point. (Puff, if you are happy for me to I might flick you the tune and see what you think. There's a couple of things in there where I think I'd prefer to do it differently but would like a second opinion).

Cool thanks, I'll keep that in mind too. I'll let you know what it does.

Thanks mate. I've set up a tune file that is stock except for the injector data which I'll chuck in before I go to work. Will treat it nice cos of the dump and cat. I guess if the fuel trims are spot on then it was a tune issue, and if there's no change I have a hardware issue.

Thanks mate. Yeah I guess I just assumed I was chasing a hardware problem but maybe not. That's a good idea to put in a stock tune with F6 injector parameters and see how it idles from there. I'll also do a comparison with the stock strategy to see if I can see anything obviously funky that's been changed. I'll get in touch after that!

Hey guys. Not a huge problem, but this one has me scratching my head a bit. I've got negative fuel trims at idle in the 5-10% range (moves around a bit, but that generally where the LTFT settles). Car is a FG XR6T which until the weekend was tuned by a workshop under the previous owner, standard injectors, X-force cat and dump, K&N air filter and no other drivetrain mods. Car had the above fuel trims and occasionally goes a bit rough at idle when putting it into gear. Over the weekend I put in reconditioned F6 injectors (no known issues with existing injectors, but was concerned they were a bit maxxed out in the tune and wanted a bit more headroom) and given the above issue, thought a new fuel pressure regulator wouldn't hurt either. Issue is still there and maybe slightly worse. I really thought a faulty FPR or a leaking injector may have been the cause, but it seems not. Other info/observations: O2 sensor is new I also out new plugs in on the weekend, but the old ones looked fine and identical to each other No misfires, fault codes, etc On my BA (which had the same wideband in it) it would quite rapidly oscillate between extremes of lambda 0.98 and 1.02 at idle. On this car, the extremes are more like 0.96 and 1.04 and seems to take longer to bring them back into line. On mild acceleration, the trims trend back towards zero (obviously heavy acceleration is irrelevant as the car goes into open loop) but it has to pull fuel again once off the throttle Disconnected the pipe to the airbox on the off chance the filter was clogged and restricting airflow, but didn't change the trims Engine temp data looks all good, so don't think it is a temp sensor or thermostat issue triggering a cold strategy. Fuel economy is good. When I bought the car in July and then again before the warranty expired in September it had a full health check including compression No fluid contamination or loss Car seems to go very rich on heavy throttle, like more than what is being commanded in the tune Plenty of power, throttle is responsive - if it wasn't for me having the WB in the car and also looking at fuel trims is never suspect there was an issue (other than the occasional rough idle). So overall it seems to have some fuel control issue but also I seem to have eliminated the main culprits? My thoughts on next checks are: Maybe there's an aftermarket pump in it that is too much for the reg? Unlikely given stock injectors, but you never know. I've got a near-new Walbro 255 I kept from the BA to out in, so might as well do that and eliminate something else. Clogged return line resulting in excess fuel pressure? If I do the pump I can point the return line at a container and see if it is returning plenty of fuel at idle. Pressure test the fuel system Pull each injector plug and check the impact on trims? If one leans the trims more than the other maybe that one isn't firing reliably? Given the issue exists on two sets of injectors it might be a wiring issue rather than injector in that case. Any suggestions on other stuff to check? Sorry for brain dump!