El Andrew

Yeah I know. Everything spins freely though and parking brake fully disengages. Got to get the outer upper control arm bushes done on the back soon, so might get them to inspect the brakes at the rear just in case. Might just be a characteristic of whatever compound is in those rear pads. Loving those pads though.

Happy Friday indeed! Long couple of weeks at work so looking forward to weekend. Out of curiousity, anyone notice their car dusts up the rear wheels more than the front? Noticing it on the FG but was opposite on the BA. I'm assuming this is because with EBD on the FG, the car is using the rears a lot under light braking to prevent nose dive. New T2s rotors and SP500 pads all round, plus I chucked Territory calipers on the back. Happens both sides and the wheels are not warm after a decent drive, so I don't think I have a dragging caliper or anything.

When I removed the trans in my previous car, I just had a mate under there helping to balance it and went slow. A BTR is only 30kg though. When I removed the rear suspension I had a couple of furniture dollies (just home made ones using thick timber and strong castor wheels) in place so that when I lowered it on the jack it landed on the dollies to balance it and I could then roll it out from under the car. I'm in Canberra too if you need an extra pair of hands at the critical moment!

You should be able to lower it without damaging if you protect with blocks of wood. Depends which pan you have as to whether you have a drain plug it not, so may need to drop the pan. I bought an aftermarket steel pan with a drain plug when I serviced my ZF to make flushing/servicing quicker and less messy in future.

Yep - I know that road. First bit is fantastic then the dirt is a pain. I came back from the first Snowys cruise I did that way, not knowing about the dirt. Fantastic camping through there. The bitumen at the other end where you get closer to Canberra is good too, and only about 15 mins from my place. Is fun to take the car through there and turn around when the dirt starts.

Thanks Keith! Speaking of doing things to cars, this thing has a Kayhan ICC.... https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2017-AC-Cobra/SSE-AD-6169317?pageSource=details&id=SSE-AD-6169317

Yeah I figure better to swap them than have a decent run through the hills spoiled by coil breakdown. I'm using exclusively Gulf Western fluids. If I'm ordering through them for trans fluid, I grab a couple of drums if engine oil and whatever else I need to get the cars through the next couple of years. What the heck? I'm sure I quoted Arron's post! Probably user error though if I'm honest.... MOD EDIT: fixed by k31th

That's not bad - visible but not too conspicuous. Close to the OBD port too. The ultra gauge I've got hooked into the OBD gave a couple of pending trouble code alarms on the way to work this morning for coil plug circuits. Ordered a set of genuine coils as at 120,000 km there is a good chance mine are original. Might explain the occasional stall and roughness at idle I'm getting. Or I guess it could be the typical earthing issue causing the codes and the idle problem. Either way, worth buying the coils as you know you are always going to need them eventually! If that doesn't resolve the issue, I'll swap the current ones back in and add some earth straps.

Serviced the Kluger - engine oil, diff oil, transfer case oil, transmission fluid. Efficient way to do it - jack it up, get the drain pan out and go nuts. Went to do the in-tank fuel filter too. Pulled out one of the middle row seats, removed trim panels, folded back the carpet. Unfortunately the lock ring and fuel module were spinning together, so will have to buy a new lock ring and cut the old one off. At least now I know the drill for how to get to it.

I see what you did there...

Presumably the gauge reads at full like that with ignition on but engine off?

Reminds me of the Roadkill Boost Caboose

Is normal to do that - basically means it is leaner than the range of the gauge which happens on major lift off the throttle. The car basically cuts most/all fuel for economy reasons during deceleration. You don't need to worry about being lean on lift off like that. I have the same gauge and get the same display. What is more important is that it is sufficiently rich when on boost.

Give the forum a yell next time - if a seller like this wasn't willing to post to NZ, I'm sure one of us would be happy to have the parcel mailed to us and them post on to you. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F251486271003

I've got some dash cam footage of the BA sideways through a roundabout during a trip to the mechanic.

When I went from a lighting strike BA to a Vixen FG with leather and 19s, my wife was like "Ooh! Flip key!"

It is worth trying GW direct too - they may be able to ship it straight to you. In Oz at least, that turned out to be the cheapest way to do it by a long way.

Lots of people on here recommend the Gulf Western Syn-TS. Since using it myself, I've continued to be very happy with it. https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/94598-zf-external-cooler-install-and-transmission-service-how-to/

If my car had boost control issues and I had the boost sensor unplugged, I wouldn't be racing people...

Haha I neatly hole-sawed the FG airbox. But the BA copped the jigsaw.

You need to get it tuned to change the boost level . It isn't quite just "run stock FG boost pressure" as they have a different turbo to BF so will behave a bit differently. If you basically want a bit more power, a tuner can do that. Anything more than a small increase and you will need to consider changing the cat, injectors and maybe fuel pump. Cost depends a bit on what you can fit yourself and what hardware your tuner is happy to work with. Have a dig around the site for recommended tuners in your area and look at the 300 club section for the aorta of things people have done for that sort of power level and what they have learners along the way. It is amazing what these cars will do with a reasonably modest spend on some hardware basics and a good tune. Enjoy!

Haha if this is my intake temp, image what the outside temp was! Minus 4 according to the car the other morning.

Exactly. First thing I did when I bought the FG. Have been so sick of tyre places stating that the lock nut keys were wearing out when they were fine the last time I used them. Stop using rattle guns on them, dickheads.

Dentist day... Oh well, only go every 6 or 7 years. Bracing myself for the usual lecture about coming more often. At which I'll nod and agree and come back 6 years later.

Could be worth disconnecting and reconnecting again, and grabbing a multimeter to check all of your fuses.