El Andrew

If you want to go more performance without a tunee, think about tyres first. Then decent brake pads and rotors. Then maybe decent shocks and springs. You will notice these much more than any minor engine mod that doesn't need a tune. A new intercooler is generally fine on stock tune, and will give you repeatable power due to slower heatsoak, but any outright power improvement will be negligible.

That's me now too, since the wife had to go lactose free. Ain't nobody got time to froth two separate types of milk. Haha Rab the Vittoria umbrella is my danger indicator too!

As much as I hate to admit it, I actually agree re Nespresso. Not to cafe standard, but I'm yet to experience a home espresso machine that matches it for quality, let alone consistency/repeatability. Was trying a $1000 Breville machine with built in grinder and proper steam wand recently. It was ok with some practice, but still no Nespresso. Have had friends make coffee from $3000 machine and no better Plus $25 ALDI milk frother jug with three year warranty for the win. Luckily my work has a cafe-spec machine. Bit of practice on that and you can make a very decent cup.

My bad. There's only one way of doing anything.

I started that way, but found the 20 seconds it took to disconnect the lines under the car and lift the rail out made the job much easier. I could then quickly fit the new injectors and reg on the bench and then drop the assembly back in.

I did this recently and the instructions above are absolutely correct. The only detail I would add is when disconnecting lines from the fuel rail, just disconnect the connections to the hardlines under the car but leave the rail connections intact. Then lift the rail out with the fuel lines still attached. Haha my mechanic just quoted $1500 to do the timing cover seal and wants to pull the engine. Even Ford only quoted $1000 and said they leave the engine in.

Quite the cocky box by the sounds of it

Lol just rang them - said their staff wouldn't do that. I said I had it on video. He said he would look into it then hung up.

Unfortunately this issue continues to hang around, even though at times it looks a bit better. I built a tune that basically got rid of any lambda corrections, kept the car in open loop and targeted a flat 0.95 everywhere so I could see easily what was going on. Car could happily hold commanded lambda with a bit of load, but was very rich at idle. Made me suspicious of fuel pressure and also I think eliminated things like an erratic O2 sensor. Had some rose joints replaced in the rear yeaterday so got them to test my fuel pressure while they had it. Had been tested before (reported back as "ok") so asked for the actual value. Good news is that it was 65psi at idle - I think I've found the cause of my negative fuel trims. Reckon step 1 is to disconnect the return line under the car and point it at the mower petrol tin. If the fuel trims settle down while idling, I know I've got an issue somewhere between there and the tank. Hard lines all look good so reckon checking the pump module would come after that.

Anyone else find their mechanic turns off the dash cam? I wouldn't mind if it was just not wanting the workshop filmed while they talk crap while they work, but immediately before turning it off the guy leaned out the window and called someone a farkin wanker and then spun the wheels. Have footage of the same workshop nearly losing the rear of the BA through a roundabout so I think I might be done there.

Don't piss Rab off on the Snowys cruise...

Haha it is now. Was feckin annoying for the past two years! Car drove ok though so wasn't worth continuing to chuck parts at it and hoping for the best. All up it had 5 mechanic visits, including 2 to Toyota, without a correct diagnosis.

Just for the LOLs - I finally fixed this bloody thing. Replaced the vacuum lines and had the car properly smoke tested but no luck. Was getting suspicious it was fuel pressure despite Toyota saying it was ok. The dash fuel consumption was way worse than actual fuel consumption, which made me wonder if pressure was low (and being compensated by longer injector pulse width to achieve lambda 1.00) the car would think it was using more fuel than it was. Replaced the in tank fuel filter along with the the O rings in the fuel pressure regulator last night as part of a major service. Fuel trims now fluctuate a couple of points +/- zero. Car feels more responsive too. Original problem occurred about 24 hours after filling with petrol so reckon it must have been one fair sh!thouse tank of gas.

Just bought a 5W handheld UHF so should be better comms for me this year!

Added about 6 lb/hr to the low slope and now idle commanded AFR and measured AFR line up. No stalling. I'll turn closed loop back on and see if it behaves itself. Super strange though that both the XR6 injectors and F6 injectors seemed to be out. On two different factory regs. On two different fuel pumps.

Thanks! Pump is a Walbro 255lph and has a new genuine reg. Fuel return isn't modified but shouldn't need it I would t think.

Well that was interesting. Have the car set to command 0.95 lambda everywhere (and took the boost out of the tune). Car holds 0.95 on throttle, but idles steadily at 0.85. Makes me wonder if my low slope is off, but I'm using F6 injectors with factory data. Plus I had the issue on the factory injectors. I did have fuel pressure tested but now I feel like I want to get a gauge and see it for myself! Idle was very smooth and no more stalling, but need to give it a few more drives to be sure. I think I've learner something about the issue, just not quite sure what to do with it yet!

It cranked but didn't start. Interestingly when you released from the start position it kept cranking! Turning back to accessories stopped it turning over. Was in a multi level car park so was somewhat relieved when I reflashed and it started again!

Yep - all factory. Exhaust is 4" X-force cat and dump. I imagine that could have a small impact, but you'd also think it would be a stable impact (like just a wider oscillation of lambda around 1.00), not fine one minute and dodgy the next. I've got a thread I started a while ago with this issue so I'll update there re troubleshooting the car further once I know some more. Setting the open loop throtle position to zero and the start up delay to an hour seemed to do the trick for open loop. Flashed that in befor I left work and lamda at idle was very stable on the way home. I need to put 0.9 or something flat across my base fuel map and zero out the scalars to be sure (and keep it off boost then of course). Could be interesting to add lambda scalars back in one by one to see if I can find the culprit. BTW setting the number of O2 sesnors to zero didn't work - car would crank but not start

Will do, thanks. Just to add, the issue also exists on the original injectors and factory tune.

Thanks mate. Yeah issue occurs warm and cold. Am going to try the zero throttle thing, plus set the number of O2 sensors to zero. Edit: actually I will try what you have suggested too - set the startup delay for closed loop to 3600 seconds which gives me an hour!

Hey guys. Bit of a noob question, but how do I force the car to stay in open loop at idle? Is it just a matter of putting the throttle position to zero in the Open Loop TPS transition table? (ie so that open loop is triggered from 0% throttle)? Trying to troubleshoot an issue where the fuel trims are sometimes stable (Lambda 1.00, trims virtually zero), sometimes not (trims up to -15%, lambda lurching from 0.9 to 1.1) at idle. Ccan stall the car when they go wonky, especially when transitioning netral to drive or drive to neutral. I'm checked a bunch of things an am suspicious that something in the O2 sensor wiring is funny. Fuel control under load is absolutely spot on, so want to see if the idle issue goes away on open loop at idle. Injectors are freshly reconditioned F6 injectors so I have factory data for them.

Accommodation booked for Tumut and Jindy! I had hoped to do Omeo too but having an overseas holiday I booked before I changed jobs, I will already be in massive negative leave territory. Will aim to at least do the morning of Sunday before heading home. If I get flogged at work before then I'll try and take a sneaky day in lieu on the Monday!

You would have to hot wire the pump as when you key on the pump will prime then stop. You could probably disconnect the return line under the car and feed that into a jerry can with the engine running? Edit: whoops Keith and I must have been typing at the same time!

So in! Nice pic in the first post [emoji3]