El Andrew

They are ridiculous. As you can imagine, my kids aren't short. Both were well beyond the max heights recommended on the booster seats when they hit 7. Laws are aged based rather than height based because people are stupid and they think by keeping the criteria simple, more kids will be properly restrained. But too bad if you are in my boat where the laws made the kids less safe. Anyway, all over now and less mucking around when I need to fold the rear seats!

Youngest turned 7 today. NO MORE CAR SEATS!!

The fluid expands as it warms up, so the fill hole is at the right height for 40 degrees. You need the car running and the trans at that temp to get the level right, regardless of whether you are flushing or just topping up. Cycling through the gears is useful when flushing, as it help mix up the old and new fluid and remove a greater percentage of the old fluid each time you drain. Even for a top up it's not a bad idea, as fluid drains out if the various mechanicals so making sure it is fully circulated when setting the level is good, but not critical.

Went to the exhaust shop today and exhaust is fine. Couldn't find any other issues with the car and thinks there is a good chance the wastegate is cracked. Not sure if that means the flap or the turbine housing around it. Is going back next week so he can pull the dump off and have a look.

Haha thanks Keith. Was in a rush at the time so didn't have a chance to grab that link.

Any brand name filter and gasket should be fine, although have a think about installing a metal pan with a drain bung if your has the plastic pan. I'm very happy with the Gulf Western Syn TS which lots of people on here have used. A 20L drum direct from GW is about $150. If you are changing from the original Lifeguard fluid best to do a flush by filling, cycling through the gears and draining again a few times. Bit of a pain, but you'll get a much better result.

https://www.tiperformance.com.au/products/raceworks-e85-safe-plastic-fuel-pump-convoluted-tubing-160mm-id-10mm/ This is the easiest stuff to work with if you are replacing the hoses yourself. Best to use some oetiker clamps too.

Yep, replacing the arm is pretty easy. Main trick is lining up the bolts when you install the new arm. Use a jack under the rear suspension to help if you are doing this without a hoist. Can take a bit of patience but not too hard.

It is just held to the fuel rail with a circlip. Is pretty easy to pop off and just need to remove the vacuum line from it. Might need to get the crossover out of the way too on a BA. Bit fiddly to get to but if you are removing the fuel rail too it is a piece of cake. If you do remove the rail (eg if you are upgrading injectors) it is a piece of cake. Remove the fuel supply and return lines at the quick connects under the car to make it easier. If your new reg has different pressure to factory, you will need your car tuned for that. What's the reason for wanting to replace it?

Yeah but it won't hold it for more than a second and is tuned for 14

Just thought to check the air filter. Was pretty filthy which I'm putting down to the weeks of smoke we had here. Only cleaned it 5k ago. Had a new Ryco paper filter lying around so chucked it in. Didn't make a difference. Did happen to be on a private road where I got stuck at a series of red lights, so could do some decent pulls. Will spike to10 psi and then drop as the revs rise. Exhaust actually sounded quite bad - not sure if that is the issue or just a symptom so will definitely get that checked next.

Honeycomb whole way through.

No change with factory BOV so wasn't that. Rechecked for loose intercooler pipes and everything is perfect. Removed the cat and I can see through it, so it isn't that so am a bit stumped. Could it be a collapsed muffler? Have always thought the exhaust sounds pretty spluttery. Might investigate if the wastegate is stuck open too. I've got a good exhaust guy so will have a chat to him too.

Ah yes of course, I was getting confused with connecting the compressor cover directly to the wastegate. Hmmmm so I guess I'm maybe looking at either an exhaust issue or a boost leak. I've swapped the factory BOV valve in for the drive to work tomorrow - probably done enough driving around the neighbourhood like a knob for one night.

Hang on, I think I've confused myself. If I disconnect the boost reference from the compressor cover, if the wastegate itself is fine, it should just max out at wastegate spring pressure? That's what it just did, so I think that keeps boost solenoid, boost leak and cat all as possible causes.

Thanks for that. If the solenoid doesn't help and it won't boost higher with the reference line connected, disconnecting the cat and having a peek shouldn't be too hard. Should confirm too I'm reading the manifold pressure with both a gauge and an OBD2 device, so have eliminated a bad gauge or sensor.

Cheers guys, thanks. I'll try that! Fingers crossed for the solenoid for ease of repair.

Thanks Gaz. Do you mean the actuator itself on the wastegate, or the solenoid?

Alright brains trust, what do you think? Car has started topping out at about 7 psi. Is tuned for 14 and used to hit that no problems. Also feels a bit lazier coming onto boost. Car is FG with standard turbo. Relevant intake and exhaust mods are 4" X-force dump and high flow cat, Turbosmart BOV, and aftermarket cooler and pipes. Intake looks good, have checked it over for leaks and can't find anything. Car holds 7 psi no worries and accelerates smoothly. Checked exhaust manifolds bolts to the head and to the turbo. Found two that were very slightly loose but made no difference. Turbo looks healthy, no significant shaft play, spins freely and quietly. Have ordered a new wastegate solenoid as they are cheap and my first thought is the thing seems to be running on gate pressure. Other possibilities maybe a leaking BOV (could chuck the factory one in to check) or wastegate spring gone soft? Anything else I should be checking? Haha I checked that a hadn't flashed in my "wheel alignment/car wash" tune

Thanks mate! A year on and it's all still working nicely which is good.

#askingforafriend

Great write up Keith! Put new speakers in the FG over the weekend and this guide was useful to tell me what to expect and save me digging around the wiring diagram for speaker colours. I put some fairly basic Rockford Fosgate 3-ways in the doors and used the Aerpro spacers to replace the factory mounts - super easy. Not audiophile spec by any stretch, but the it's like night and day compared to factory speakers

If your tuner is using PCMTec there is an option to switch between E85 and 98 tune with steering wheel buttons, which could be an option for you

Lol at recommend not replacing alloy wheels with stock wheels

The FG exhaust is only twin for a small run within a single section, and so all of the flanges are single (not with the car at the moment to confirm). So I would think what is in that pic is fine, unless I'm misunderstanding something?