El Andrew

I remember seeingg this video once. Is a sedan but should give you the idea. We were all born not knowing which end to hold the screwdriver and had to start somewhere. But whinging about not getting an answer is not going to get you any friends. If you hang around here long enough you'll find there's plenty of people wanting to help if you are willing to give and take.

Well we are allowed to walk around the lake, but only in a clockwise direction... Did LOL yesterday. Red Cross happily took my blood, but then EB Games wouldn't trade in a game because of covid.

Yeah I reckon the pan with the drain is the safe way to go and less chance of stuffing it up. I can't quite remember, but I don't think the old fittings were particularly re-usable. I got the wrong fittings initially (supplier put 6R fittings in a bag labelled 6HP26) so I tried to use the old fittings to keep me moving. I think the hard plastic lines look like they've been heat shrink on and it wasn't possible to fit hose like a normal barb fitting once the old lines were cut off.

Haha thought you might be!

Lol I think that guy had other issues going on with the car or the installation! I just grabbed an Antz kit and was pretty impressed - there is literally nothing there that could an issue to the turbo, although admittedly I opted to get my own K&N pod as I didn't really know how good or otherwise the supplied one was. @Blaze657 I put the kit in last week, so happy to answer any questions on plumbing stuff or take photos of what I have connected where.

This thread was useful - just did mine. 2010 FG had the 10mm hex filler plug. Allen key was fouling on the sway bar (I've got a big Whiteline unit so might be different if stock). I put the Allen key in horizontally and they used a 10mm spanner on the Allen key shaft to undo the plug. Stuff that came out looked pretty ordinary compared to the new stuff!

Thanks guys. No, didn't lube although the part I'm thinking is leaking was pre-assembled. Re thread sealant, I thought that wasn't required on AN fittings? Having a bit more of a look into it, yes I've definitely fluffed it by not removing the riser. Thread into the core is 7/16 which is what the supplied adaptor was. However that fitting doesn't want to start into the core (only trying by hand - a stripped oil feed thread in my core will make.my day worse not better). I'm going to play it safe and assume I've wrecked the adaptor thread by screwing it into the riser and grab a new adaptor. Still doesn't solve the location of the leak though. Maybe though if that adaptor to riser joint was leaking, under pressure it is running up the hose a bit and concealing where the actual leak is? I'll start with a.new 7/16 to AN -4 adaptor, install it properly and see where I am at.

That may be, but it is leaking from above that?

Started the car after a couple of weeks of chipping away and a few service items and a battery relo/turbo side intake. New oil feed pissed oil everywhere. I've checked everything for tightness, but my thinking is that if it's leaking from above the actual rotating fitting, it is a manufacturing issue rather than installation?

If you buy a cat back that works with factory dump/cat, then as long as you later get a dump/cat that works with factory cat-back (most do) then you'll be fine. I'd get another quote on the middle muffler delete though - seems pricey.

Yep definitely. They will be able to look at your existing tune and see the injector data and what is in the boost map. Then a run on the dyno will probably cost $100 or less and tell you whether the fuel system is keeping up with the current boost. It is a good practice with any modified car and plenty of these cars have seen the inside of some pretty average tuning shops, so good to make sure everything is nice and safe for your motor.

It has to have had some tuning done if it has aftermarket injectors. There's no need for an aftermarket boost controller on these cars as the factory boost control can do the job in most scenarios. Given it's history, definitely take it to a reputable tuner to at least check AFRs and what injectors and other mods are in it. If that all fine and you want more boost, then get it retuned. Edit: posted at the same time as Keith. In summary, take it somewhere and find out exactly what it's hardware and tune setup is now before you decide what's next.

I like my car being serviced by a legend so I do it myself.

I like to keep it legal. On an FG the BOV is front and centre so I figure is a good invitation to go looking further if it is vented, or a signpost that everything is ok here if you've bothered plumbing it.

Yeah Dan my Turbosmart is significantly louder than stock. And BCB I reckon the metal intake elbow you are plumbed to makes a difference to noise too, rather than the air blasting into the plastic factory crossover.

Yeah the air will take the path of least resistance. So I guess it is going to depend a bit too on intake system volume and pressure. So hose needs to be big enough that the ease of exiting the pipe is more than the ease of stalling the compressor wheel. I reckon I'll just get a 25mm fitting welded in to the intake pipe pre turbo and do it properly.

I guess I'm wondering whether 13mm is enough to vent the pressure or not

Might be hard to answer, but what size hose do you reckon is needed on the BOV plumb back to effectively vent boost pressure on throttle close? Outlet size on factory BOV and on my Turbosmart Compact Dual Port is 25mm. But the TS valve can presumably handle scenarios with much more boost than my 14psi. Reason I ask is I've chucked in a turbo side intake that has a fitting for a 13mm hose for the breather. I can eventually get a fitting welded in for the plumb back, but thinking as an interim I'll just step down the BOV to 13mm and T into the hose for the breather just before it hits the intake pipe. Ultimately I guess it doesn't matter too much, as plenty of people run no BOV at all.

And give me bulk Club FG cred

I could, but it has all been freshly sealed up so I'd rather not! Flaking is on the front so maybe I should just slap a hectic sticker there...

Seriously 50:50 about whether I should try to respray my rocker cover while it's in the car, or just leave it. Has some of the original paint flaking off after Ford steam cleaned it when doing the timing cover seal. Long term I'll buy one and get it powder coated to switch over next time the cover is off. Have a can of high temp red and a can of high temp black in the shed, plus a long weekend. Temptation will probably get the better of me.

New shocks and springs, quality pads and rotors, reasonable tyres will all give you best bang for buck. It will be very expensive to make decent power mods on an N/A. Some of the above will be transferrable to a turbo FG if you upgrade in the future (brakes will depend)

Doesn't the pump run flat out regardless of the power? Just means more fuel coming back via the return. So a 460 is working just as hard in a 300kw car as a 400kw car?

Ah cheers thanks. Haha yeah I'd noticed it when doing the filter and assumed it was a heat sink style cooler. Only just noticed the coolant plumbing from above today. Yeah I'd come to the same conclusion previously re the FGs, but then occasionally hear a horror story. Probably unnecessary, but figured there was no harm in doing while everything was accessible. Fark doing the intake side cam position sensor again any time soon.

Nah that's long gone