El Andrew

Not a bad idea though. Especially if you ran it exclusively on 98. When designing the NA motor and determining compression ratio, Ford obviously had to assume 91.

Are you still running the factory dump or cat?

That's correct - from BA onwards base models are non- turbo XR6s have identical engines. Prior to that (E series and AU) the XR6s have mildly modified engines compared to the base.

It is like Goeer all over again [emoji1787]

Yeah you'd need to do a lot to suspension and brakes to make it handle even a stock turbo barra

1. Can't remember, but just follow the lines to the turbo compressor cover and to the wastegate. That's where you'll want to disconnect them anyway. 2. Yes. Is located on the throttle body elbow.

Yep connect the compressor housing directly to the wastegate to check if the solenoid is the problem - should run about 8 psi like this (wastegate pressure). If it boosts to 8 psi fine you likely have a solenoid issue. They are only about $40. If thatdoesnt work - If you disconnect the compressor housing line altogether and drive it, it should boost to the moon under load if the wastegate isn't stuck open and you don't have a boost leak. Be careful - be ready to jump off the throttle as soon as it makes boost pressure as you don't want to break the motor. Given the timing of the issue emerging, I'd double check you battery leads are nice and tight on the new battery - if you haven't already. Those codes basically mean the PCM isn't detecting as much boost as it expects so helps you start looking but doesn't necessarily mean it is those components.

Two guys at work were driving in a 90kmh zone when it hit. Lost every single piece of glass on the car and then we're getting hail and full on rain in the car. Said they thought they were going to die! All of the traffic ended up stopped in the middle of the road with cars totally destroyed.

Oh wow Gaz - glad the car survived! I was undercover, but there were thousands of cars destroyed on Canberra in the January storms.

Double X https://www.instagram.com/maxxperformance_official/?hl=en

Hey mate. I would suggest for 300 odd kW you ignore head studs, valve springs and compressor wheel - absolutely unnecessary unless the car has issues with anybody those items or you are aiming for much more than 300-320. Injectors, yes. Fuel pump, optional as the factory pump will just get you there. But good insurance bro know the fuel system can keep up and it's cheap. You can do it separately or later without affecting the tune. Flapper mod - maybe, maybe not. Sounds like you are being quoted for an actuator upgrade too which is not needed. Anyone know how much a flapper mod should cost? As Keith says, a lot of the labour is in removing and replacing the turbo, then porting the wastegate. The flapper itself is about $20.

I always figure you should never get under a car without a plan B. If the wheels are off, slip them in an appropriate spot in case a stand tips or fails. If wheels are on, chuck a piece of wood under each tyre to give you room to survive if the car drops. I know what you mean - had the Kluger on stands yesterday. Even though they are rated way higher than they need to be it still feels sketchy.

You can still drive it - but if you boost too much you'll be back in limp mode. The PCM will monitor boost against the boost map and the overboost threshold and should shut it down before boost levels get dangerous (ie too much air with not enough fuel can cause knock and engine damage) but you are relying on that failsafe. So you can drive it around no worries, just don't go flogging it!

I'd be inclined to go injectors for 300ish - factory ones will be absolutely maxed out and you want a bit if a safety margin. However as Keith says, you can absolutely get the car tuned for that exhaust (within the limit of the factory injectors). What is happening now is that you have made it easier for the turbo to make boost pressure by improving the exhaust flow. The car is sensing that boost is higher than it expects and so is cutting the boost, hence the power drop. The tune will allow the car to make a bit more boost, plus revise the overboost cut settings. If you pay the little bit extra now for injectors, you will get a much better result from the money you are spending on the tune. If you do the injectors later you will need to pay for a tune again. You can upgrade the intercooler later without needing another tune. The wastegate flapper and port seems to be needed in some cases and not others. Mine is fine with a 4" dump and cat, but I still have the factory cat back. Might pay to have a chat to a few workshops too and have a read on here about who is recommended. Pitlane seems to be the go for most Vic people on here. Edit: was typing while Keith was typing. That's actually exactly what I did - my car was making 300kw on stock injectors when I got it, and I replaced them with F6 injectors.

If he is getting 5k from the rears I'm pretty sure he is doing skids!

Thanks mate. Has brand new genuine coils and was doing it with the old ones so not that in my case I don't reckon. However... I've replaced a few things as part of a refresh over the last few weeks and the issue seems to be gone. Cam sensors, crank sensor, O2 sensor and throttle body clean - must have been one of them! Although maybe it was changing the diff oil...

Got a quote from Shannon's yesterday for my Mk 1 FG. They thought current value was $17k, after paying $14k two years ago. Guy had a laugh about some of the crazy prices on Car Sales. Said he has daily arguments with VF SS owners who all think their cars are worth GTS money.

I honestly can't remember if the exhaust was in the way or not! I was pulling the motor too so removed the dump and cat anyway. If you have a factory dump and can undo that flange with two bolts, it shouldn't be too bad if you give them a soak first.

BTR is pretty straightforward on stands. On my old BA I lowered it on a jack on to a piece of timber with castors to help get it out from under the car. If you've done it on an E series I reckon you'll be fine. They aren't that big compared to say a ZF.

Looks amazing! Making me think about cranking up the Weber on the weekend. Charcoal, none of this gas sh!t.

A lot of dicking around, but would be fun to disassemble, reassemble and then chuck it in the car and see if it runs. Then sell it as a built motor, just don't tell them it was built with the same parts...

In all seriousness, I sometimes wonder if I should buy a cheap NA block in case I ever need one and they have become too hard to get. Could be fun to rip apart and see if I can out it back together too!

Just get a green top...

Did it make gate pressure with the solenoid bypassed or still 21 psi?

I just put an Antz kit in and seems pretty good. I couldn't justify the extra cost of the Plaz for something that's just a couple of pipes and some sheet metal. I did grab a K&N pod though as I didn't want to skimp there. Will just use the Antz pod as a spare if the K&N is being cleaned. It does make a lot of noise on throttle compared to the factory setup which is great, but just be prepared for the fact that it isn't subtle.