El Andrew

Partially

Yeah good choice on the corrugated line. Most people cut the submersible hose to the exact size to keep the height right which is a bit of a muck around. I did it in a loop like Mickey Mouse ears the first time, but in my current car used the corrugated stuff.

I don't think Pingtune does the mail order flash anymore so probably wasnt them. Probably didn't need a question mark. I'm Ron Burgundy?

Looks like Bullet Performance still do it, but the one you refer to is Dyno only?

Haha yeah partial write for the win!

Haha would be cool if you could customise it. Do a Mario Kart logo or something!

Nah I don't - got the original bush setup like OP. Just mean that it is normal that they clunk with a big lift off.

My ZF-equipped car is exactly the same despite everything being all good in the rear. You learn to ease off for a split second before completely jumping off the throttle when you are up it.

Haha love you can hear the keys jangling around after you get off the throttle

Keith means that this fault can occur if the car is flashed when it's not cold, not that the fault will go away when the car is cold. Have you tried flashing back to stock and then to the E70 tune when the car is cold? Not quite sure what you mean - but are you saying if you flash your 98 tune in the fault goes away?

Yeh I'm confused about why you think it's an F6 if it doesn't have the F6 motor or any F6 markings? Do you have more details?

Nah don't worry about locks if you aren't keeping the ignition barrel. You will need a Ford dealer or someone with the software to marry up the PCM, the module on the back of the ICC and your ignition barrel and keys. There are a few guys around who do it - some may even provide a postage and return service so you don't need to tow the car.

Take the module on the ICC, the PCM, ignition barrel and locks if it is all undamaged - that way you wont need any coding. You'll want the LSD too (and I think the tailshaft, trans and CVs are different on the turbo too - but someone else might confirm that 100%) - so basically transplant the turbo driveline into the new car.

Scary stuff hey

Da heck... That you@bloodycrashboy

Ooh nice!

That one is likely fine, but worth checking too.

Haha nice. I made a joke to the wife in an Eric Cartman voice, which my 7 year old decided was hilarious. Now I'm stuck reading the all of the BFG's lines in the BFG with an Eric Cartman voice...

There is a restrictor in the turbo so you can't over supply it with oil. The filter in the block should be removed as it can get clogged causing UNDER supply of oil to the turbo which is a common cause of failure. The noise you are describing sounds like that and if the filter is the cause, it will happen again on a new turbo. Remove the original filter (remove the oil pressure switch and oil feed line from the block - is a cylindrical filter help in by a circlip in the fitting you remove). Then put it back together without that filter. Does your new line have an inline filter? That could have blocked too. Before you start the car, crank it with the oil feed disconnected from the turbo itself to confirm you have sufficient oil flowing through the line.

Nice! I just bought an accoustic so I can try to learn. Would be a relaxing hobby once you know a few things I reckon.

Or "Hey, dad - what the fark??"

Trying to acclimatise him to being outside more as I'm working from home less and less. Has just realised he is big enough to stand up and look through the window

Lab pup about 6 months now. Going all out on the kennel - fence palings on the outside, but lining with plywood with wool insulation in between and rubber backed carpet tiles on the floor.

Yeah I need to do the same - sell/dispose of anything I don't need. Trying to decide whether I should stick the factory intake stuff under the house, or bin it and sell the intake muffler delete. Plus I need to finish building the dog kennel.

Working from home - trying to spreadsheet and not head out to garage and mod...