El Andrew

Interesting - I feel like that knowledge is going to get me out of trouble one day!

Interesting - I feel like that knowledge is going to get me out of trouble one day!

Looks a bit different now. Kicks go down tomorrow morning for the cabinets and then I lay the bamboo floor over the weekend. Doing most of the house with it, so will see how far I get!

Wow that window is nice. Kitchen and laundry came out today. Bye bye asbestos!

Go KYB. Cost effective and tend to be better quality than Monroe or the cheap brands. I had those on my BA and was very happy.

First coat on 96m of skirting boards

The TSC is based on wheel rotation using the ABS sensors. I can't see that you would have a calibration issue after changing the brakes. I've got the same set up (322mm front with upgraded 328mm rear). I'd say it's more likely the ABS sensor was damaged or dislodged during the install. Just a guess though - someone else may have direct experience with the issue.

Nah haven't done ball joints. Did the shocks on the BA back in the day along with all of the bushes except the ball joints. Haven't done any front end work on the FG... yet

Thanks mate - appreciate it. I'll keep chucking sensors at it! At least they are cheap and easy to replace.

Anyone else find they chew oxygen sensors quickly? I seem to kill one every year I reckon. Idle gets a bit funny and wideband suggests the car is not quickly adjusting between slightly lean/slightly rich at idle. Issue has just come up again and then car three a code for slow O2 sensor response. Car us an FG with X-Force dump. I'm wondering if the sensor is located too close to the turbo exit or something. Wideband sensor doesn't experience the same issue. No big deal as genuine Bosch sensors are only $59 but thought I would ask if anyone else has the same issue.

Springs absorb the impact on the road and shocks absorb the rebound/bounce effect. The test for shocks is to push down on the car above the shocks and see if it comes to rest in a single movement or bounces around. Sounds like checking shocks would be worthwhile.

Haha to me it looks like no dishwasher, a sketchy oven and asbestos under the lino!

Yeah that was weird that one but was hard to see how it related to the intake. That guy sure had a lot of pain trying to chase his issues. It's just some piping and a filter so once it is fitted it is hard to see how one brand would work any differently to another.

I've got the Antz kit and it is fine. Only thing I didn't like was the Antz brand filter. I opted to buy a K&N just because I trusted it more and I think you get K&N with the Plaz. If you did the same that reduces the cost difference a bit. The Antz filter may be fine for all I know!

Well then here's a before shot...

I should finally have something to contribute to this thread soon - new kitchen and laundry starts in two weeks. Kitchen currently has three vintages in it, including some cupboards from the original 1971 fitout. Both floors and the laundry walls are asbestos, plus we want to move a doorway and remove a wall so will be a total strip and refit. Plus I'm installing bamboo floors in the whole house and then need to get started on the deck and pergola. No car tinkering for me for a while!

It shouldn't matter whether it is electrical or mechanical in regard to the adaptor and it's placement as long as it is the right thread. But same as Keith says, I'd be very nervous about having one inside the car.

I thought it was the 'Vette that does that?

Haha yeah saw it was deleted. Was going to send them a link to the Snowys Cruise [emoji2957]

Keith, is this legit?

Good job. Haha I always get dirty looks at the kids school cos hectic turbo side intake. Doing 30 in the 40 zone the other day and got angry stares when I lifted off. My kids think it's cool so who cares.

Any of you guys bought tech from itechshop.com.au? In the market for a TV and their prices are pretty hard to ignore.

If you have a Bluetooth obd dongle or a access to a scan tool, you can read boost from the ECU. That will tell you whether there is a issue with the gauge/sender or associated hose or if you really do have low boost.

The backing plate and caliper don't move in relation to each other so you don't need heaps of clearance. 5-10mm is probably pretty good. You just don't want much opportunity for a rock to get wedged in there. Then just file of the sharp edge and give it a squirt with paint to prevent rust. Thought I had a pic of mine but can't find it unfortunately.

I just got the 20% off email and was able to add an Aeroflow turbo to my cart so might be working now. I'm not buying one - just procrastinating at work [emoji16]