El Andrew

Haha good stuff. You had me zooming in on the rocker cover trying to see if you had something written on it [emoji1787]

Good work finding it! Have a think about getting an aftermarket piping kit - only $200 or so and metal. The stock plastic always dies eventually.

Must be a leak I reckon. If your wastegate was stuck open you would still make some boost and you'd probably have other noises if your turbo was cactus. Double check all of you pipes, around the throttle body, etc. If you have factory piping make sure nothing has split where you can't see it. Some of the pipes are behind the bumper, so pull the splash shield off underneath and check them.

School actually loans him two - one for home and one for school!

Haha Gaz buy it and bring it on the next Snowys Cruise

Bought it a present. I absolutely love FG1 Lux Pack rims but mine had a ton of gutter rash when I bought the car. These ones are perfect. Will get my tyres swapped onto these and then sell my old ones. Or maybe fix them up and sell them. Or maybe track wheels...

Haha my life just took a strange turn. 10 year old signed up for year 5 band and got assigned to the tuba [emoji15]

That's correct - if you are installing a cat-back system you will not be touching your catalytic convertor and don't need a tune. There is info on here about reputable tuners if you decide to go down that path one day. But sounds like the place you visited is a bit like the guttering bloke who came to my place to fix a single gutter leak. Told me it would probably be easiest to replace all of the gutters and downpipes for $8.5k. Technically would have fixed the problem...

Yeah same. FG front calipers fit the opposite way (behind the wheel rather than in front) but actual calipers and bolts are the same. Actually looks like Ford used the same bolts from AU2 onwards.

You could try pressure testing the piping between the turbo outlet and the throttle body . You can diy a test kit with some PVC pipe end caps and installing a tyre valve in one - then hook up a compressor and see if it holds pressure. I found I had a couple of spots that looked and felt ok but actually leaked slightly. Hopefully the tuner has already tested this properly and not just had a quick glance. If you disconnect the wastegate line you should boost to the moon. Maybe try this first (but be ready to jump off the throttle before you go sky high) if you make heaps of boost this way you know you have some sort of wastegate or wastegate control problem but no boost leaks. I spent a lot of time last year chasing a low boost problem. Turned out I had a piping leak AND a failed wastegate which made testing and tracing a bit confusing. Edit: just took a pic of my boost leaks tester so I'm making more sense!

Haha never trust a workshop manual. Kluger manual reckoned the entire rear end had to come out to drop the fuel tank. Looked unnecessary to me. Couldn't quite get the heat shield out or access the rear bolts on the tank straps. But made a nice slide for the tank [emoji16] Tank out, cleaned and back in with new filter. Fuel trims back to normal.

If you follow the wiring that will help you find it. From memory I did mine without removing anything else.

Haha there's a good way to spend $300 worth of credits!

Did the in tank filter last time - wasn't that bad. This time I'm pulling the tank out for a clean to hopefully stop the problem happening again, as the filters aren't cheap. Basically replace the whole module and swap the pump and reg onto the new one.

Howdy Keith Crappy job for me tomorrow - Kluger fuel trims have gone nuts again, with same lean codes on both banks. The fix last time was a new fuel filter (in tank) so I assume whatever schmutz blocked it last time is still floating around in there. So looks like exhaust, tailshaft and middle seat row out, so I can drop the tank and clean it. Will give it an oil change and some front pads while I'm feeling generous.

I'll pay Royal Gala BCB, but you can GTFO with Jazz!

Totally pink ladies. Worth the cost cos it makes me eat more fruit!

Factory ECU has decent boost control which the tuner can manage with the tuning software (PCMTEC, HP Tuners, etc). So if you are paying for a tune you shouldn't need to spend anything on boost control hardware. Factory FG turbo tops out around 320kw. It is a good, responsive turbo on the Barra though, so if you shoot for more power and go bigger you will trade off a bit of response on the street so depends what you want to use the car for. Edit: posted same time as Keith but same same. I should have said I was talking 98 not E85

If I was you and getting those codes and needing that much boost for that power, I'd be going gentle on the car until you get into another tuner. Sounds like some basics aren't right so makes you wonder what else could be suspect. Last thing you want us a broken motor. I think most people find about 13ish psi is about right for 300ish on the FG factory turbo. You shouldn't need an eboost - there's no reason the factory boost control can't be tuned correctly for what you want to do.

I thought it connected via Bluetooth to your phone for Tinder swiping?

Thanks Gaz - I feel like I'm still looking for the perfect phone holder solution! Using a magnetic one at the amount but gets dicey sometimes and can slip on a case. Did have a brief look at the Ram so interesting to know it's going well. Any experience with it through the twisties? Considering a Quad Lock so I can also get an armband and bike mount.

Let's remember I was replacing the BA with the broken diff so was a little gun shy...

Haha yeah the car had $89 Chinese tyres on it when I bought it - paperwork suggested they'd been changed before sale to clear the roadworthy. With over 300 at the wheels it was sketchy to say the least. They only stayed on the car about two weeks.

Thanks guys. I reckon I'll get through another set of boots before I stop using it daily. I tend to avoid Dunlops as the Sport Max I've had before were awful for wear, wet grip and tramlining. Every tread pattern and compound is different though so I'm probably being unfair. Unfortunately the PS4 doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere at a sensible price. Will be good R&D at any rate.

Will be interesting to see what it does. The BA and BF design doesn't allow the leaking seal that is the culprit to be replaced due to the captive nut, hence the after market design that Ultimate Power Steering (and probably others) do. Not sure if Ford updated the design for FG/FG-X to resolve this. Certainly isn't as much stuff on forums about leaking power steering so presumably they must have fixed the root cause anyway, but that doesn't help you. My FG is the first Falcon I've had that hasn't needed a new hose at some stage.