El Andrew

I have the Antz kit too - if you want to recirc your BOV you definitely need a bung welded in to the metal elbow as discussed. Ive done something similar to Cat007. I used drum hose as it was fairly cheap and oil resistant.

I missed this somehow - definitely in!

Ah sorry I was assuming you would retain the turbo head for the different valves etc and just use the gas bottom end. Popping a motor occasionally keeps me awake at night when you see the prices for FG motors of unknown history. Makes the Atomic long motor seem like a good strategy if the need ever arises.

I know what you mean, and of course he could sell the BA motor now rather than potentially breaking it. From a tune perspective, shouldn't be major problem to swap motors and not need a retune if injectors, turbo, etc is remaining as is. I'd say you were unlucky though - a healthy BA motor that is well tuned shouldn't break that early unless there was some other failure, fuel issue, etc that triggered it. Of course depends how much it gets beaten up when driven too!

Is it just me, or if you are buying a motor so you don't break your current motor, you might as well go full send on your current motor? If it breaks, then buy a motor like you were already planning... If it doesn't break, then happy days... 'Weak' is relative to the later Barras - you can still have a turbo Barra motor at 280-300 and if it is well tuned and maintenance kept up there's no reason why it won't be a fun, reliable street car.

Oh dear! Too much kids sport on weekend mornings for me to attempt anything like that these days. Finally getting my RE003s fitted up to the reconditioned rims I bought. Looking forward to nice fresh Lux Packs.

Screw you guys - now I want to go outside and top up my cold transmission [emoji1787]

What I meant was that when giving them their initial fill before sealing them for life, they knew how much fluid they needed from their development - they didn't need to warm every transmission for the initial fill.

The proper ZF procedure is to do it at the right temp. They would do it cold at the factory, but that would be based on an exact calculation on how much fluid is required for a completely dry transmission.

^what he said - you need to be very particular about the car being level and the fluid being at the right temp. Edit: sorry posted at the same time he did. But also when you refill, run the selector through all the positions a few times to make sure everything is well circulated so you get an accurate reading

How old are the ignition coils and are they genuine? Sounds very similar to weak coils

Haha it is indeed! In other news I'm getting 'Puffwagon' in my YouToob recommendations notifications

Lol yeah will see how it goes! I meant 100. 200 is just for the driveway, friends' farms etc.

Yep and nup. Is actually almost silent cruising at 200. Full boost through 4000 rpm on the other hand...

Pissed off the centre muffler today. I said "resonator" and the bloke heard "straight pipe". Didn't mind the sound though so will see how it goes.

Yeah those O rings really need to be changed every time you remove the pump I reckon - I tried to reuse one once and it seeped and stank. Leave the doors open outside for a bit to get the breeze through - the fuel vapour is heavier than air so it tends to accumulate in the footwells etc. It's a bit disconcerting to have a fuel smell in the cabin after working on the pump , isn't it!

LeeT - the short answer is that yes it will take some more boost and love it (just not as much boost as the later engines with stronger rods). But you can't just slap a boost controller in it and send it - the fuelling will be dangerously wrong and the ECU will detect higher than intended boost and shut it down. You need a tune to solve all that. And the factory boost control can be tuned to target higher boost, which makes an aftermarket controller completely unnecessary.

Haha nice! Always seems to be the way - a catastrophic issue is caused by something simple. (Or in my case, someone simple)

Not related as they are completely separate unless Ford mistook oil mess to be from the timing cover when it was actually PS fluid. Unlikely though. You wouldn't notice a drop in oil level with the timing seal unless is was a huge leak but would probably see some oil hanging around on your sump as it runs down the engine. Ford did my FG XR6T timing cover seal (along with sump, rocker cover, spark plug and crank pulley seals that you do at the same time) for $980. I'd ring a few Ford dealers and get some quotes that are hopefully closer to that - even if you go back to your dealer and get them to match it.

Parked the car in a multi level carpark in Sydney CBD. Then casually walking down the street afterwards. Felt so Dom Toretto...

That should sort you for temps etc. Some can be a bit slow in terms of refresh rate so might have to see how it goes for RPM. The car won't have oil pressure through OBD as it only has an oil pressure switch (rather than sensor). You can I stall a T piece into the switch location to add a sensor and gauge.

Haha I know what you mean. A turbo car always seems to be work to maintain. And I reckon I fell out of love with the EL because having two cars I cared about was a pain in the arse. Putting a turbo Barra in an EA would be a time and money pit!

FTFY

Looks like you are on track. Getting in before Puff...

Hi everyone As per above, I PM'ed Stingray about mine as it didn't fit well. They sent me the updated one straight away which fitted up much better. Still need to finish the job by mounting my trans temp LED properly (got a thermo switch to trigger the light and the trans fan) and putting some electrical tape around the gauges to make them snug, but this pic gives you an idea of the improved fitment. So yeah, thanks for sorting it out! Also I need to vacuum the car...