El Andrew

Hopefully I'm in a different boat! Decent battery, cranking and voltage at the pump [emoji1696]

Thanks mate, appreciate it! Have sent you the file and the RW data I used.

Just to continue documenting my inner monologue... Figured if the car really is immobilised and cutting the fuel pump, causing no fuel pressure when priming, then I should be able to confirm by checking voltage at pump when cranking. Pulled the pump connector off and hooked up test light. Has voltage with key on during initial prime, then voltage again when cranking. I think that's good news. Must be losing fuel pressure someone, so think I need to pull the rail again and recheck all of my steps. But hopefully we are talking a mechanical issue now rather than an electrical/immobilisation issue.

Reconnected the battery this morning and still no start unfortunately.

Hey everyone Bit of a head scratch here. As you know, I threw Bosch 980cc injectors into the car the other day. Also been tracing a wiring issue with my transmission cooler fan (which turned out to be a bad crimp that had pulled loose under the dash), so a bit of mucking around with multimeters and of course disconnected the battery while doing the injectors. Got busy with work and aorund the house, so only got around to hooking the battery back up, loading in a tune with updated injector parameters and starting it yesterday. Well, tried to start it... Pump primes, car cranks but doesn't fire. Not even any coughs and stumbles, so seems like no fuel or no spark. Jump start pack didn't help either, so left the battery on charge overnight. Exide battery about 12m old. Tried to start it today - same problem. Checked I'd plugged everything back in properly an all seems fine. Checked all fuses. (I'd removed the throttle body to get access to the fuel rail.) I reflashed the tune but no dice. I'm using the Raceworks 4 bar data for the injectors as my starting point. I even pulled the parameters for Bosch 980cc from an old post from @Puffwagon and loaded those parameters in. I imagine though even if the data was way out, it would at least cough and splutter and try to start. Scanned for codes and I got the usual P1000, U1900 which are common with some code readers. But also got P1260 - theft detected. Cleared that, tried again, but no luck. And the code is back. Got the 8 year old to watch the fuel pressure gauge while I cranked - I assume it should stay at 4 bar, but he said it dropped. Took video to confirm - https://youtu.be/y1oBXQGKNPU So it looks like no fuel pressure, which I'm assuming is due to the theft detected issue. Obviously didn't like something I did when I disconnected battery (I possibly unhooked the battery while the car was locked). I've currently (boom-tish) got the battery disconnected to hopefully reset everything so I can try again tomorrow. I could retrace my steps and put the old injectors back in with the previous tune, but I'm doubtful that's the issue. I'll try that if I comes to it though. Could even put the factory reg in (has a GFB reg), or hook the battery up to the original cables where the turbo-side airbox currently is, to eliminate any battery cable issues. It does crank though... Any other suggestions anyone can think of? Presumably unrelatedly, when doing all of this I've noticed that when I release the key when cranking it keeps cranking until I turn the key off. I've also had a couple of cocasions in the past few months where I've gone to crank and nothing happens. If I switch off completely and retry, it has been fine. So maybe starter solenoid is on the way out - but seems unrelated? At least I'm in lockdown so don't need the car tomorrow or anything!

It's a nice idea, but I'm not sure it would be worth it. Extra gears will give better economy I guess. Having a ton of gears when in manual mode through the twisties would be annoying I reckon.

Change down manually rather than triggering a kickdown and the ZF won't give a rat's about dealing with 300

Injectors went in and I've primed the pump a few times to check for leaks. Updated my tune file but haven't flashed it in. Then had a dream last night that the car was running like crap and I took it to a mechanic. As I was explaining the problem I suddenly remembered I hadn't flashed the new tune in. I should probably head out with the laptop so I don't have nightmares again tonight.

Yep! Bosch 1150s going in. Plus the trans fan stopped working so chasing a wiring issue. Probably pulled a crimp out somewhere when I redid the wideband the other week. Proper soldering iron arriving Friday [emoji16]

Happy birthday Keith! ACT on the lockdown train too. When I'm not working, I'm spending lockdown the right way:

Wheels don't actually look so bad in that shot!

Have you tried a new O2 sensor? Only $60 or so and can cause some stalling issues. If it's never been done it really is a service item anyway.

Haha sounds like the 'professional' tune that was in my car when I bought it - all the boost, all the timing, hey knock sensors it's your turn to bat. Makes my a-hole pucker thinking about it, but in practice it worked as long as the knock sensors didn't fail.

Pretty sure I just went to a radiator place and they welded on a 1 inch pipe with a rolled end on the spot. Just mark it in the car first so you get it where you want it

Don't think it will up on top, but if it does then I guess I'm suddenly venting to atmosphere!

These pics give you some idea of how I did mine

I found it a bit over the top to start with. So I replaced the middle muffler with a resonator to balance out the induction noise [emoji1787]

I've got the same kit and got a thingo welded onto the metal pipe elbow that the filter attaches to. If you are going to the effort of plumbing back you may as well make it legal. I think I used oil drum hose so it was oil resistant, but in reality there ain't much oil going in there. Was just what I could find that was black.

Nice work Keith - dogs are fun to have around. Bought a pod for when we take the dog away and he fills up the boot. Ordered a nudge bar from East Coast Bullbars for the Outback. Told the wife it was good to support Sydney businesses (which it is). Was about to order a light bar for it too, and got told to leave her car alone and stick to modifying my own. So I did. New injectors were delivered yesterday.

Latter one could be fun. Two bottles of whiskey and then clean the dogs teeth.

Sounds fun - my first one is on Monday. Sounds like I might as well drink two bottles of whiskey.

Puff is right though. Weld the gate shut and send it.

Any decent should be able to - it's a little fiddly but nothing complex. Sorry that's what I was trying to explain above - that mod DOES NOT unlock extra power. It helps you limit the boost so you don't get unintended spikes. It doesn't increase your maximum boost or power levels. Baby turbo is going to max around 309-320kw. For $850 or so you can get a Pulsar GTX3576 gen 2 equivalent supercore to bolt up to your existing rear housing. That will go more power but will definitely need the flapper mod. Edit: weird post delay, but same-same

How much is the mod? If it's affordable and helps you sleep at night then probably worth it [emoji846] If you are good on the tools you will save a heap by removing the turbo yourself.

Sort of. The boost spike happens because the turbo controls boost by opening the wastegate but its size limits the extent to which it can do this. Exhaust gases make the turbine spin, which makes the compressor spin, which compresses the intake air. When you have more exhaust gas than you need to make all that happen for the target boost, the wastegate opens to relieve the excess. If the wastegate isn't big enough then not enough exhaust gas is released and you make more boost than your target. Is worse when cold as cold air is denser and makes more 'boost' than warm air. As Gaz said, stock FG turbo is going to struggle to make more than 15 psi. Tuning for a lower boost target won't make a difference, as this issue is due to exceeding mechanical capability. Managing wastegate control as the limit is approached will help. Surplus injector capacity won't help much as you won't have a fuel table that knows what to do at unplanned boost levels - so the computer won't know to use that extra capacity. But if you are targeting rich AFRs at peak boost you are probably pretty well covered. Each exhaust combo is different though. If your tuner says he can't do it without a bigger wastegate port and flapper then must have a reason. But yes, plenty of 300ish FGs with stock turbos out there without the wastegate modded. Edit: Have a read of some info on how turbos work. Some of the above posts are correct and some aren't. Flapper and port mod doesn't help you make more power, it helps you maintain control over peak boost. Boost don't leak out the exhaust. There are plenty of good books and articles if you want to get into the nitty gritty.