El Andrew

I might be wrong, but I reckon in modern cars where body electrics are controlled by a computer, there wouldn't be a separate flasher unit - the computer would just send a rapid on/off signal to a standard relay.

Haha yeah I should keep half a metre of it and move it around each morming

Had a few cubic metres of concrete rubble and bricks in the back corner of the yard I needed to move to the front of the block to get rid of. Plus a large number of rocks out the front I want to use for landscaping out the back. Moved it all by hand over the weekend so feeling the body today! Skip coming tomorrow so I can throw it all in and be done with it. Better get the wife's car out if the driveway before the skip comes!

Matt. He is a legend

They need a touch of heat mate - heat gun, saucepan of hot water, even a hairdryer. Just soften up the end a bit and they push on. Just use a bit at first because if you over do it the end will crinkle up or collapse when you try to put it on.

Could you wire the signal from factory unit to a small extra speaker you mount somewhere just for the beeps and then run the existing speakers off the new head unit?

Youngest boy on his class Google Meet, telling the class about the hectic mods he has done to his Lego cars [emoji1787]

Good work Keith. I've got round 2 on Saturday after hopefully getting out of quarantine on Friday. Wife is off to get her last test now.

Yeah any oil leaks tend to dribble down and collect there so definitely worth doing what Puff suggested to confirm

Thanks. Is it still the same in SA that you lodge your plans and then go for it once approved? Was when I built my pergola there. In ACT you have to appoint a private certifier who does the sign off but also inspects before and after footings are poured and at the end. Much more painful and expensive!

Anyone happen to know any good software for drawing line diagrams? Need to submit plans for a pergola. Just doing basic 2D stuff and not worth the effort of going into 3D software. I'm basically just trying to replicate what I would otherwise do by hand. So MS Paint would be fine if you could specify line sizes. Last time I did one I just drew by hand, but is a pain if you make a mistake or want to adjust anything.

Cat just screamed at the front door, so I let him. Immediately went to the back door and screamed to be let out. Obviously couldn't be farked going the long way around. Edit: Yep! Probably because if all the salt. But it's not usually my go-to choice if there's PB around.

How come whenever anyone mentions vaccines, someone brings up 5G?? [emoji1787]

Yes, but the more people who can get it, the lower community transmission will be and then people in like Fluff can be safer if they choose not to get it or can't get it. So there is a bigger picture here beyond individual preferences and risks.

Haha, yep there's nothing that can replace that feeling! I've been sick the last week so haven't gotten around to tuning new injectors. Car has been on ramps for two weeks. Been watching car channels on YouTube and playing Xbox which is just making me miss the boost more! All better, ready to get it going again and find out the wife was unlucky and went to the wrong pharmacy at the wrong time so now we are in quarantine and can't leave the house at all [emoji24]

Yeah age is the killer with Shannon's. I found them much better recently than when I was early 30s and in my 20s their quotes were ridiculous. Have both cars with them now and about 20% cheaper than AAMI. Had always loved AAMI but their service has really gone downhill. They were useless with the Kluger claim - conflicting information about where the car was, took ages to assess, had a bug in their system that kept reapplying the excess even though we weren't at fault. Haven't claimed with Shannon's though so I guess you don't really find out what they are like until you need them.

Correct, open loop us when it ignores the O2 sensor and just relies on the fuel maps, so no sensor feedback to make corrections. It's also weird before that you had big STFT but LTFT was staying at zero - looks like it's not adjusting LTFT obvious because it's staying in open loop. Need someone with more knowledge here to weigh in but either a) the sensor outputs are way out so the PCM is ignoring them (so some underlying fuel system issue) or b) some other failure is preventing the car switching to closed loop after the initial warm up. I'm thinking aloud here though. Did you check Forscan for cylinder head temps? If that sensor had failed and was defaulting to its lowest temp range, car might stay in open loop. Weird that you don't have a check engine light - have you scanned for codes?

So sounds like the car is pulling a ton of fuel out! If the car was fine for a long time after the tune and something has gone astray since, my money is on the FPR or a fuel return restriction. Temp affects fuel strategy but you should be able to use Forscan to see if the CHT output looks sensible.

Sorry - missed your reply above. Basically a short term fuel trim is an instant adjustment for current conditions (based on the lean/stoic/rich signal it's getting from the oxygen sensor). If the PCM finds it is continually adding or subtracting fuel from the base, then it adjusts long term trims. They adjust quite quickly though. Long term fuel trims should be within +/- 5 percent or so. When you say you have loaded in the stock file, do you mean the actual stock file? If so, that will run rich if it isn't know you have bigger injectors (or they deliver more fuel for a given opening time) Could be that the oxygen sensor was part of your problem but not all of it. I had a minor boost leak and a failed actuator a little while ago - made troubleshooting very difficult. Check the fuel trims and see what they say. If you had it tuned, I'd give your tuner a call too and see what they say. Or if you want a second opinion, most places will do a few dyno pull for Les than $200 and would hook up a wideband. A reputable place should be able to tell you if the tune is ok or not. Could still be mechanical too, like a failed fuel pressure reg or blocked fuel return line.

Lol Intune piping kit I'm using didn't have any instructions at all - so didn't even know what order the pipes went or what side they were. Only fits one way though so didn't take too much trial and error.

Stock actuator should be fine on your turbo and you are probably just adding headaches to go aftermarket. If it's working no need to replace it. When mine died I had trouble finding it online, so rang MTQ and they posted one. Was $120 or so from memory. Doesn't need any preload adjustment - just bolts on where the old one came off and won't affect your tune. Bit of a job as you need to pull the turbo off.

I'd try logging your long term fuel trim and see what it is saying too

What exactly do you mean by running rich? As your long term fuel trims are pulling fuel out? Or measuring on a wideband?

Definitely looking unlikely just now. We will cruise again though!

Chucked diff bushes in this morning and all good now. Jet was a legend and confirmed the factory data sheet numbers were no good. Have some numbers in it now to let it start, which confirms it's a tune issue so I can put the spanners away. Scaling the low slope in the driveway will be fine to get it close. High slope will have to wait until after lockdown! Good point though Puff - pulling that quick connect would have been a quicker way to confirm pump had voltage and was flowing fuel!