turbotrana

I'd take your parents EL and turbo that. I wouldn't worry about the 24V head as with the turbo kit I have in mind it will do 500hp at the wheels. I have some auto mods that strengthen up that auto trans heaps. Get some EL Gt rims and you will have a real nice and quick car. The BA Turbo is nice but its a bit of a lard arse at the moment and I wouldn't consider buying the series 1 new or second hand until all problems are sorted out.

Just buy an EA to ED for a few grand and give me 10 grand and I will build you a turbo EA ED that will blow nearly any heavily modified street driven turbo BA.

APS/Nizpro, It would be nice for you guys to go into detail about the auto mods(alot of people are asking) but since you want to protect this knowledge there is a very limited response and I can understand this. However how about telling us what parts of the auto are letting go and at what power level.

I'd say Ford designed the clutch to slip under certain conditions to save on broken driveline warranty repairs. Your only option is heavier duty aftermarket clutch but I'd say goodbye to drivetrain warranty then.

Anyone know the A/R and wheel sizes of both the turbine and compressor of the GT40 on the XR6T. Is the A/R for the turbine the same for both auto and manual. Whats limiting power on the Turbo, compressor flow or turbine restriction.

Don't know anyone in Melbourne. I'd say doing the line pressure mod is max a 3hr job plus parts and materials. A reasonable charge probably $200 to $250 but as we all know charges can vary greatly from one place to another. I would suggest that flaring damages the friction surfaces. If you dont mind firmer shifts there does appear to be a mod where several of the solenoids are totally disabled which improves strength due to better oil flow. It still shifts as per normal, just harder. You need to change the front band to a aftermarket "carbon" type, at this stage no performance type clutch plates are available but I'm sure someone should be looking at making a batch of say Raysbstos Blue clutch plates. At this stage I might be putting all the late model internals into a EA housing as this allows the bands to be externally adjustable(the new boxs are not). The jigsaw is comming together so by the end of the year I reckon 500rwhp reliable box is possible. Just really waiting for performance clutch plates really and seeing how successful APS and Nizpro are. I am just developing the box for my own personal use so I'm in no real hurry.

All the line pressure mod requires is removal of the valve body, seperation of the two halves of the valve body and the insertion of a stronger in line pressure relief valve spring or loading the spring up with about 4mm of washers. 400 bucks is a bit steep for a relatively simple and cheap mod.

In the Street Machine Mag Nizpro provided this info on auto box mods for the Turbo . "First up they swapped the solenoids to get everything gripping more tightly, new friction materials was added and one of the main drums had a thread cut around the end to take an internally threaded steel collar designed to brace the circlip groove against failure(this last bit is good)". Nizpro have always been good at providing hi tech info to magazines. It really helps the guys who like to do their own mod work.

Dont let this thread die, the more we know about where the weaknesses are in this trans and how to overcome them, the less frustrating it will be for the people with an auto problem. I'm getting too old and grey to go back to a manual tranny but I still want my 600rwhp. This is the biggest issue in my opinion for the BA turbo.

In WA only have BP Ultimate. Solves pinging in cars designed to run lower octane (96 BMW 318i does ping a bit before computer retards) I've noticed a definate increase in fuel economy in the cars I putter around in.

I agree, Supra ratios dont seem to suit the Turbo 4L, however my mate found that a C4 and 2.92 rear end worked quite well with the turbo 4.1 motor as it likes to be "loaded up". He was doing 130+mph on the qtr. With my 500+ rwhp turbo (not ford) I go much quicker down the qtr with 3.08 ratio than with the 3.55 as with 3.55 it never loads the motor and your in and out of a gear too quickly.

Thanks Pete, I think I might go the supra 6 sp route also

At this stage I think its the front band that starts slipping first. To help fix you can replace this band with one that is custom made with a special carbon lining (holds better). Together with increasing line pressure in the trans this is all that I know of that can be done to help the trans.

The best thing to do is to have a dyno comp where both boost and airfuel ratio can be graphed with RWHP and have results published with mods in detail for each car. I've seen a site where a guy has done this comparing Supra 6s turbos with dyno graphs overlaid and its really informative. How about it APS. Nizpro, CAPA, Redcliffe dyno and the guy with 300kw @ 13psi should be invited. APS, you should know in detail by now whats broken in the auto. Would you like to tell us or are you going to try to keep it a secret (which wont be for long in this age of the internet).

1000 hp at the wheels or at the crank. Someone will definately do 1000 at the crank. There are issues with the rod/stroke combo with this engine that can play havoc with power production but who 10 years ago would have said that we'd be driving 700fwhp turbo 6s on the street as daily drivers. Dont discount anything with the technology that is being created on a daily basis. Just a note, that Venom XR post seems a bit "promotionally" suspicious.

This is easily sorted, whats the part number on your injector APS and whats the part number on your injector Turbo 6. Dont go too small on the injector cause even if they are 400cc or 550cc you pay pretty much the same. Get the biggest you can find, 550cc is min with this engine in my opinion. Also with fuel pumps just go straight for the Bosch Motorsport 040 pump. Its does the job well for 600whp. If you go too small you always just end up upgradding which is a waste of money and time. A kit should be designed with upgradability in mind. I've always used a Lucas 550cc disc injector which is considered one of the best injectors on the market. All stainless steel and because of its design it can go to 95% duty cylcle no problem whereas alot of the others can only go reliably to 85%D/C. Avail from RC engineering in the states

BCL, you stated the Tremec wont fit the XR6T. Do you know the reasons why? These boxs are cheap in the states at the moment considering the exchange rate and a much more economocal solution.($US1400 for a TKO) They used to knock the Expensive Daewoo Trimatic for being too weak yet now they are developed to take 500whp. The problem with the BTR 4sp is not so much the box but the electronics controling it (how quickly certain clutchs/bands are applied and released in the tranny). Another option is to have a full manual valve body that may help the box. Once this BA engine/tranny control unit is cracked, it will go along way to helping the cause. But by that time Ford will probalbly have series 2 with stronger gearboxes in there anyway which are more capable. Ford seem to only release their new models with serious upgrades in September of any year. So if your lucky you will only have 8 months to see what ford does, if unlucky 1-3 years and 8 months

I'm sure both APS , Nizpro and their transmission rebuilders have got their thinking caps on and thinking real hard cause it aint going to be easy putting 400+rwkw thru that transmission reliably. I'm sure over time the BTR 4sp trans will be developed but I can see them putting in something like a 2 speed powerglide or a Tremec 5sp for a short term cure.

KT Ford, this problem is not just a simple brake pad change to cure it. I'm sure if it was this problem it would have been cured at the next pad change, but in this case a pad change does not cure the problem. It is something more complex and expensive to fix. It is FORDS responsibility to fix it and untill then I aint buying a new or secondhand one. Expensive Daewoo never ended up fixing brake shudder in my 98 VT. I've changed the pad type and it never cured it. I still dont know what exactly it is but I think it may relate to the design of the bearing hub (gen 3 type design and 600 bucks a set new) not being the best. Its a new design in VT and BAs and not really proven. This may be the same with the Ford. Although premium brakes may seem to have no problems, it may be that it just covers the problem up better. Another theory on the VT onwards shudder is a liquid filled bush on the end of the front suspension control arm that causes shudder problems and that a change to nolathane fixes it. Nevertheless it is a serious problem . This shudder does cause longer braking distances at high speed and could kill someone because of it.

I must thank Mark at 100% cycles for his $1000 donation. Wow. APS, it would be good if you could match this. I'll be looking forward to any info on beefing up the BTR 4sp that you may have in the weeks to come. Regards

APS, you seem to be using both this forum and fordforums.com to promote your business ONLY and not in anyway to provide any technical help to other users on these sites. I asked you a question regarding whats gone wrong with your auto in the XR6T and what mods your doing to it and you have failed to answer, reinforcing that you are just interested in self promotion. Out of interest did you contribute a substatial amount for the purchase of a new sever. Because by the amount of self promotion you have done maybe you should have paid for the sever in FULL

A real potential problem in the wet. They can put their foot down overtaking and the rear will easily let loose. An inexperience turbo driver will loose control. I wouldn't worry in the dry though. For my nephew P plater I've limited the max speed he can do via programmable engine management.

You cant expect ford to honour warrantees with Turbo cars. With a N/A vehicle you can put extractors and CAI and it will give you a little increase that the manufacture will not worry about. With a Turbo you can put on a Signal Bender type computer and boost it up to 20psi, double the engine output, blow the transmission, take the computer off and try and claim warranty. Hardly fair for the manufacturer. I think they have every right to deny a driveline claim if they see its been played with, and they will everytime. Its mainly the workshops forgoing their warrantee cause you can use your own labour to fix stuff, and invariably if it breaks you want to mod it to make it stronger. If you have to rely on ford to fix it out of your own pocket, you might as well buy a new car.

Dear APS, I didn't like the tone of your post dated 23 Dec to Dynosteve. It seemed like you were having a bit of a dig rather than asking a genuine question. Fancy saying something like "that's slower than stock". There is NO conflict with that ET/time that he quoted. It is completely possible. Now if you really want to be of any help to this forum, just tell us what you intend to do to beef up the BTR turbo auto. Getting 700rwhp out of the engine is the easy bit. Getting the auto to hold it is the hard part.

Why dont we all fax something to Ford. If someone can dratt a letter regarding common problems and telling Ford to get off their ass and fix them up, it will put a bit of pressure on them to get things sorted out. I am particularly concerned with the brake shudder, and I will not buy the car untill its propertly sorted out amongst other things. I'm really holding off untill the brakes and gearbox are sorted as this will probably be the last new petrol powered car I ever buy. I reckon in 15 to 20 years time we will be using alternative fuels.