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turbotrana

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Everything posted by turbotrana

  1. Can someone give me a summary on this thread, I'm too -uck-- tired to read 41 pages.
  2. Free world, we spend our money as we see best fit, but I bet ya would be mad if a XRT6 blew away your XR8 at a traffic light duel just after you had been boasting to your woman in the passenger seat as to how quick your XR8 was!!!
  3. I posted this injector number months ago on this forum and another forum and APS insisted on both forums that I was wrong. He even requested that the "incorrect" info get removed from both sites. APS, I didn't apreciate you telling me I was wrong when I was right. As I told you before there are no secrets in this age of the internet. Especially when it only took me all of 1 minuite to look it up in the latest Bosch parts book!! You cant really justify the mark-up you charge on those injectors for what is really a few minuites worth of R & D?
  4. Yeh, I reckon your mad even thinking about supercharging when its way more economical trading and getting a turbo. For supercharging the standard rods are fine. With supercharging you wont be getting anywhere near the power needed to bend the standard rods.
  5. Looks like an Eagle rod. Do you know BCL?
  6. that's a help and this rod my be all you need for a majority of situation depending on how heavy it is. I wonder whether it comes with a fully floating pin. I will look at pricing and work out how economical it is. If the standard rod can do 500rwhp with good reliability, this one might be able to do 600+. Time will tell.
  7. A stronger cast rod is usually beefier in certain areas of the rod, larger/better rod bolts, can also be of higher quality steels used and gone thru more processes to improve strength. Untill you hit 550 at the wheels stock rods are OK imo but with this engine I will go for 600+ as this is the current benchmark atm I think for a turbo6.
  8. I read somewhere that FPV turbo is getting stronger rods. Does anyone know anything about this. Also does anyone know who makes Nizpros or for that matter APS H beam aftermarket rods.
  9. I couldn't give a crap about brakes. My emergency braking system is: HORN then SWERVE then BRAKES last. So I though if I mount my horn button onto the steering wheel rim right where my thumb sits, I should be able to apply the horn about 100 milliseconds quicker than normal, therefore warning whatevers ahead of me slighly earlier and possibly avoiding a major accident. Really none of us should be driving our vehicles on public roads in such a manner that requires super dooper brakes.
  10. Geea, I support you in the comments you have made. You have made educated choices in the modifications you have done and in my opinion made the best decisions for your T. Keep up the good work, I'm sure you get satisfaction doing it, much as I do. Not all people have the time or skills (nor the desire) to do the research to pick the better "stuff" mixing and matching so sometimes they have to take a stab in the dark, rely on someones advice and hope for the best ; but pay a HUGE premium for it also. You can look at it the other way also. Sometimes if its just a one off thing you want to do and your not that way inclined as a DIY person you are better off paying someone whatever it cost to do it and do what you do best to pay it off.
  11. Thanks for sharing that info Geea. You've worked out a great power recipe at a good price. You sound like a guy where this is not the end by a long shot. You will get used to the power you have now and will want more and more and more and more. I warn you it is an adiction. Re intercooler I would get rid of the BBM and replace it with an ED inlet manifold. I would use a crossflow set up (like what Nizpro did) garret bar and plate intercooler and modify the sheet metal of the car to accomodate 2.5" pipes under the headlights on both sides for the shortest possible route. Alot are afraid to do any sheetmetal work but in my opinion to do it properly its gotta be done.
  12. Give me your dads telephone number and I will sort it out for you. I promise I wont splill the beans about you thrashing the crap out of your dads car and noticing the trans -ucking up while you were driving it. I promise. By the way does your dad have access to the internet???
  13. The trans will go into 'overheat mode' when it goes above 135 degrees. However from what I read in the trans manual there doesn't seem to be any issue if its too cold but don't quote me.
  14. I've done all my work on an ED auto. All the stuff I do can be done from EA to AU but for BA they changed to the new Visteon computer and I have not ever played with this. Anyway with the ED I have a EMS 8860 that controls all the fuel, ign, IAC and the auto is controlled by the ECC4. Once you start upping the line pressure and doing other mods you have to trick the computer into staying out of limp home mode. Its all really easy once you work out how but alot of time is spending getting there. For the BA they are already upping the line pressure and it may or may not send the computer to limp mode, but nevertheless others are doing it so its not a problem. The hard and solft shifting modes would require the Xede to be installed. I have already had offers to modify trans in perth and I will be but I need to get myself organised. I also need to demonstrate on the drag strip how good/bad my mods are. Being married with a kid and full time job slows things down a bit.
  15. I didn't realise Northmeads charged $5000 for one of their performance boxes. I could only understand this if the box was stuffed and alot of internal parts were replace, but for box in good condition, I dont think so. For example a Kevlar front band is worth about $30 trade. But they will lead you to believe its alot more than this. BTR have designed the box to give nice smooth upshifts and downshifts. But smooth shifts take away the holding power of the bands and clutches during gearchanges under high load. But for performance purposes hard shifts are required, that's why alot of shift kitted high performance trans have very hard shifts. I dont know how hard Northmeads transmissions shift, but if they are shifting softly under extreme load then they must know something more than BTR. My shift kit gives extremely hard shifts to the point it chirps the tyres under a small load changing gear and will spin the wheels between 1-2 under high load . I've also taken it one step further where I can soften the shifts during normal driving and have harder shifts on load via an output on a programmable computer. And this mod does not include playing with the S5 solenoid which does minimal for strengthening the box. Some trans places recommend changing the S5 solenoid for a different one. Its nearly a complete waste of money.
  16. Geea, I really reckon you should have gone with someone like Northmeads who seem to have done a few Turbo Autos. Unless the fluid flow of the oil during gear change is addressed I reckon this new trans will end up suffering the same fate. If he has addressed this then good. Otherwise it may last longer but modifying fluid flow during gearchange mods is I reckon one of the most important parts of the rebuild which makes it last. Regards
  17. I read the latest street machine and it gave me the impression (I think I read it correctly) that C & V dont do their own auto trans work that another specialist trans mob do it. I wonder whether the mag reported this correctly. OwnaXR6T. Get as much info about the mods as you can. From my experience alot of workshops make out that something is difficult and time consuming to do just to justify what they charge. The oil passage mods in my opinion are rellatively easy to do, but seemed complex to me in the beginning. C & V (or their trans specialist) have proven they have the toughest trans yet so they are the people to go to. Just interested to know exactly what they do and for how much.
  18. OwnaXR6T, A moded box in good conditon your looking at around $1000 provided nothing other than the friction materials are replaced. Once you have stuffed the box up you just dont know what needs to get replaced. Remember once heaps of friction material and metal bits have gone thru the box it also goes thru the torque converter and makes the clean up and repair all the more expensive. If your going to power up, you really must do something with the box. There is no point trashing that perfectly good box when there is something that can be done to keep it together longer.
  19. The clutch friction material is pretty OK I heard but can be improved upon for a performance auto. A few years ago a batch of Raybestos brand performance clutchs were made but in the last year they sold out. I am waiting for one of the large trans suppliers to order another batch of performance clutch plates before I start building my performance box. Basically I'm doing what C&V are doing, new band and clutch material, modifying the oiling passages, increasing line pressure and modifying other bits and pieces. I dont know if this applies to the BA (I think it does but it applies to EA to AU). Dont load a modified turbo up in 4 gear. There maybe a nylon checkball that gets dislodge and causes problem. In the rebuilt this gets replaced with a ballbearing.
  20. There is a carbon based band that is the latest material to use. For the rear band you can use the kevlar. I know alot of people are dying to know, but I have spent ages R&Ding this trans. I know the forum is a place to share info and I usually do but not this stuff. Give it 6 months and we will see how it goes. Althought this mod helps heaps, at the end of the day as APS said the trans will probably get screwed in other ways for extreme horsepower applications. For medium horsepower applications I think it will have its place and keep the trans bands and clutches in good condition. But there is still a long road ahead. Sorry could not be of much more help at the moment.
  21. I had a chat with a few trans places and at the end of the day most of them have put it in the too hard basket and really dont know much other than the basic reconditioning of it. Geea Kevlar bands glaze the drum up too quickly and are not the best material for the front drum. APS, there is no harm in stating the main failures you have had and it will help the cause of the BTR. The lard arse BA makes it hard for the BTR 4sp. I'll try in a ED. Nevertheless at this stage one of the mods I have done will become a standard mod to to increase the strength of a stock BTR 4sp once the info gets out.
  22. The proof is in the pudding, so the sooner I get my ass into gear the sooner I can proove how good (bad) these mods are on the track. Give it time and we will be making the BTR 4sp relatively reliable. But to those guys whos are powering up your basically throwing money down the drain if you dont mod the box first. If you have the Xede interceptor right now I can mod a box with increased line pressure and other mods that in my opinion is the strongest BTR box in Aus for its money available (probably for $300 to $400). But dont stuff your box up first otherwise you have to strip it. At least then you can do the other required internal mods. I'm in Perth and I only do this as a hobby but would consider doing once there is a bit of demand (once cars come out of warranty).
  23. Increasing the line pressure by shimming up the line pressure relief valve is relatively easy. The valve body has to be removed and seperated. But there are some computer mods in my case that need to be done to stop the ECU going into limp mode. (these mods are on a ED auto which is much the same as the BA internally) I think I have discovered a revolutionary modification to the BTR 4sp that increases its strength heaps and is not difficult to do. I am quite sure neither APS, Nizpro or C & V have discovered it but I think it will become a common mod once it gets out. I am currently testing these mods on an ED falcon auto and the same can be applied to the BA. In my case the shifts are perfectly smooth during normal driving but at a preprogrammed RPM/ KPH it is essentially shift kitted. And no it does not involve playing with the S5 solenoid. There are other mods like replacing the front band with a upgraded carbon material plus other minor mods like bracing a particular circlip on the main drum and other bits and pieces. Once I get some time to get it all together I finally (after alot of R&D) think my auto trans will reliably take me to the 10sec qtr once everthing is sorted.
  24. I agree with Geea with the 280 155 968 injector part number being the one APS use as an upgraded injector. It actually flows 310 grams/min at 3 bar so it is really not a very big injector at all (roughly 300cc/min at 3bar). I think APS quote the flow rate at 4 bar as the turbo runs its fuel pressure at this pressure. Anyway this is the highest flowing bosch duel spray injector available so there is not much choice. Sorry to spoil it for you APS.
  25. There are alot of crap intercoolers out there. The Garrett Bar and Plate intercoolers are by far the best core you can get that money can buy as far as I'm concerned. If the new Typhoon intercooler is the biggest that can fit in the front of the T then it may be worth getting it. But just one prob. The routing of the intercooler hoses in the T is bad so really doing what Nizpro did but with a Garrett core would be the best thing to do. The main two aftermarket suppliers sell overpriced inferior cores in my opinion. Who cares about a little pressure drop in a good sized garret core. It just means the core is doing its job. If you want more boost just dial it in.
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