turbotrana

Just tuning a turbo ED that I'm doing. At the moment just doing 18 deg at boost with the programmable ECU. I know the BA has a 24V head but if someone knew the ball park advance for the BA it would help me with the 12v I6.(same bore and stroke) And I dont like advancing it on the dyno to find out where the ballpark is. I've modified a stock ED Falcon auto with no line pressure increase and at this stage it is holding up very well with around 200rwkw. The trick with this auto is with getting a quick shifting trans. Its the slow shifts that is one of the things that kills the trans. Prior to my auto mods, just putting down 150rwkw would make the shifting flare heaps. With the valve body mods shifting is very hard and proving to be durable thus far. Aim for this motor is 600rwhp with a T66 turbo

Anyone have any idea about what timing advance APS/Nizpro or anyone else are using under heavy load/boost (say 15+psi) with the XR6T .

Its funny how all the old blokes like me are trying to lean the fuel out, while all the young blokes are trying to richen everything up thinking it will make their car quicker????????

I drive a 500rwhp/ 1165kg hoon mobile nearly every day. Once your talking this amount of power it can get you into trouble very easily with. The main problems with breaking traction at high speed and not being ready for it and also getting to high speeds without realising it and not being able to pull the car up. You have to learn to respect it and learn to handle horsepower if that's your addiction. Todd Wilkes killed himself with his twin turbo V8 which made 1000+ horsepower cause he underestimated how quickly this amount of power can get you into trouble. And yes the power I have does scare me sometimes and I'm no *beep* either.

$295 plus tax, that's very cheap for a 044 pump. Are you sure its the 044 pump. Where do you get it from. Dont tell me you work for Bosch. If you do give me 10 of those pumps right away for that price. I couldn't see APS using that pump cause its the second most expenive bosch pump usually around the $450 mark. Good on them if they do as it is the pump to use. I've fitted one of those pumps into a E series falcon sender (very tight fit) but you got buckleys getting that pump to fit into a BA sender for an in tank setup.

that's great info, thanks for sharing it. Just a few years ago getting info out of Bosch was like getting blood out of a stone. At least they have come to their senses. You can read all about "multi orifice" injectors on page B8. APS has lifted all he knows about these injectors from the Bosch Engine Management Component Catalogue Book which has been around for the last year. He tries to make it seem all so mystical, part of his marketing ploy.

As the saying goes "there is more than one way to skin a poor little *beep* cat". The cheapskates out there will do their figures and say sh*t I can get the same power from nizpro for $2500 less regardless. Others will say money is no object and go for the most expensive regardless of whether its good value or not. The smart ones will go well I can go to nizpro, get the same power as APS but then I could spend the extra $2500 on an decent exhaust which will give me even more power than the APS stage 2. The smartest ones of all just dont modify their cars till they are out of warranty. :lol:

Argo for H beam rods, about $2000, ACL for forged pistons, they are coming out soon (in October). sh*t I am just a great guy.

I found a bucket of sand in the sump works wonders. PTFE have been known to cause serious problems, stick with a high grade oil

that's a good article but use a TIG for the welds rather than a MIG like was used. Use stainless steel steel pads or the courser scrubbing pads and pack heaps of it in. Tap it into the turbo drain back would be the easiest. Not alot of oil would drain back. I wouldn't vent it into the engine bay as it does/can make a mess. Definately a must do mod for hiperf turbo engines

I am quite sure it can be done (not positive) but the EA to ED pumps are better that the EF pumps onwards and can be swaped up to at least EL as far as I know but possibly to current. I have 6 boxes that I am experiementing with and I will be putting a EB pump into a EL box amongst a million other things like reinforced custom front B1 band. But if you could post all of the repair details on the receipt it would be helpful. I am also having certain high wear parts heat treated (like the reverse sun gears). I think NIZPRO or their trans rebuilder would offer the best box as they know most of the weaknesses where as the average rebuilder wouldn't have a clue apart from doing a standard rebuild with kevlar bands.

This is a legitimate thread, (the moderator) is being a bit heavy handed with suggesting to close the thread. Cool down a bit and let the forum members have a bit of interesting discussion. This forum has become really boring of late because the moderators are locking threads that in reality are posing no harm to anyone. And alot of members are holding back on their post in fear of getting kicked off cause the rules on this forum are so strict. Of course moderators have a job to do but moderators on this forum are going a little overboard with censoring in my opinion and should relax a little.

The turbo rods look exactly just like the LPG rods. Both are bushed in the little end. However LPG rods may be turbo rod rejects as in the LPG BA rod I got the pin end was not centred (noticibly off to one side)and a rod I would of rejected if it were not just to check the rod out.

By the way, last time I hit the rev limiter and my injectors leaked it cost me over $1000 to fix. APS wont cover it under warranty cause it wasn't their fault in the first place.

Yes, your injectors are leaking cause you hit the rev limiter a few too many times. You must have been pretty smart to work this one out. I must give you 10 out of 10. Now its people like you who make businesses like APS rich.

Now back to the Conrod issue (not that many seem to give a sh*t) but if FPV say that they are going to use the stronger rod out of the LPG Falcon then I want to know what the part number to the latest rod in the LPG Falcon is as I am under the impression that they are currently in use. Its just that I think there may have been some misinformation on this "stronger rod" issue and there may be no stronger rod in the LPG Falcon other than the BA6200B and this is the reason I cant find any subsequent part number for it. The FPV rod might be a completely new rod for FPV But as usual I may as well be talking to myself sometimes.

The BA Turbo rod has part number BA6200A around $232 each new. The BA LPG rod is part number BA6200B $40 each new. Both have bushed ends, both look very similar to one another although there may be different metalergy. In comparison to an EF/EL rod the BA rod has slighly less crossectional area around the beam but definately looks stronger in big end area. But there has been talk that the FPV turbo cars are going to use a stronger rod that is used in the LPG BA (have they made a newer rod for these????) Now I've checked with Ford and they only have BA6200B listing for the LPG rod and my Ford contacts (which are useless) can only find this part number. Does anyone know of a part number for the "stronger" LPG style rod that FPV are going to use???

Thanks Cuspub, that info is worth heaps to me. Will spend the 2k for custom rods.

I got ya message Worpor. The trans specialist are secretive about the BTR 4sp cause revealling tricks of the trade will loose them business. The problem is that the average trans rebuilder knows very little about tricking the BTR 4sp unless they are actively testing them with high power on the street and strip, which only a few do. And very few trans rebuilders have ever studied the fluid diagrams of the 4sp which reveals a large secret about it that improves the holding power of the bands and clutchs heaps. Once I get my 600 rwhp motor finished I will be able to test my tranny mods properly but until then I am have only got time for getting my beast together inbetween other priority non hobby work.

The line pressure relief valve shimmed up and S5 solenoid turned up for $250 with valve body out. that's robbery. You can shim the line pressure valve up with it in the car, you need to make a special tool (pretty basic) to allow you to get the pin back in but simple as. Ask them how many mm did they shim it up by. Worpor, sorry to hear the trans slipping again. These are complex things so one mistake can cause problems. Did they put Kevlar bands in. I heard that these glaze the drums after a while and there is a better material available but not really proven yet. Keep us posted

How much are the dealers offering you for it

The factory tune is rich because of emissions. I run programmable engine management systems in E series Falcons and I get 700km out of a tank where as with the stock computer I would get 450km. You just tune the air/fuel ratio at 16.5 : 1 and bump the timing up to 45 to 50 deg advance at cruise (must use ultimate fuel). The problem is that NO emissions increase with the bumping up of the advance and the cat converter can melt with the high exhaust temps created. that's why the factory cant do the same.

As the motor gets worn I would say a definate yes. The E series, once worn dumps heaps of oil back into the throttle body and an oil seperator will help heaps with regard to what the previous bloke wrote on oil in the inlet air promoting detonation. The E series has no in built oil seperator in the rocker cover, but there are cars that do have a small one. I dont think the BA has one. I had an engine that had heaps of blowby and would clog up the sparkplugs. I TIGed up an oil seperator on top of the rocker cover (made up of stainless steel sponges crammed into a TIGed up box with inlet and outlets, and it works great.

I 've got a good question though, I've heard if I drill holes in my XR6T exhaust that it will make my car go faster. Is this true?

With the turbo 6 box it doesn't appear many are breaking gears with that power (surprises me also, they must have given the gears some good treatments), it seems more that the gearbox wears in certain areas that makes them noisy. Without seeing the box it is hard to say but maybe components can be made just to fix these high wear areas of the box. For example, with the M20 and M21 gearboxes there was a larger layshaft and cluster gear available that would fix the premature layshaft wear that made the box a bit more durable.