turbotrana

You don't even need an inlet air temp sensor. I used to tune aftermarket engine management systems without it connected and it was fine. My Fg will run fine with the Tmap sensor completely disconnected. I think it just defaults to a certain inlet air temp. Its does a little protection and adjusts fuel a little for IAtemp and helps with extremes of hot and cold but you can do without. I am not sure how that secondary map sensor works into the tune but it does not affect the running much from what I remember.

The turbo will put out hotter air when it is worked regardless. However the sensor will get a bit heat soaked when you are cruising around. Start pushing more air thru and it cools the sensor down a bit. Location of sensors is very important. I don't like the IAT sensor being positioned in the engine bay. It should be located on the outlet of the intercooler to get a more accurate reading. Also the air getting thrashed around a bit more in the intercooler may be another factor. It is a good observation. Maybe you can change the position of the sensor down the track. Don't know how it will affect the map part. But for now don't worry about it too much. When I did programable engine management systems I would put the iat temp sensor out of the way of any heat. Otherwise it would muck up fuel temp compensations, it really would not reflect what was going on if located in a position of where heat would radiate onto it.

I pinpointed the thread on the hp tuners forum. Don't know if you can get onto from here http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?22069-Ford-tuning-in-AUS/page44

At the rate you are going, you will be a pro in no time. Just play with it. That is the best advice I can give. Nearly everthing you need to know has been talked about on HP TUners Forum. There is one thread on HP Tuners forum you must read. It is the very first Australian Tuning thread where it was not split up into topics. It ran up untill about a yr ago then was split into topics Read it, Some really good stuff in there. I reckon most of the questions to your answers will be in that forum.

I think Jet has gone on holiday!! I don't use livelink much. I just use the datalogging that HP has. That is all I need for what I do.

I replaced my front pads a few weeks ago. Was running Bendix Ultimates with new DBA 4000 series rotors. THe discs stayed true, plenty of dust and took out the discs to under 26mm with just one pad duration. Came across this relatively new pad from QMF called the Z8000. Put them on with cheap Protex discs. THese pads have a very high level coefficient of friction even compared to bendix ultimates cold and hot. Check out the specs on their webside. I was warned that these pads squeek and they do, but does not bother me cause they grip really well. Very dusty. If you want pads that really pull up the car with brakes cold or hot and can put up with dust and a bit of a squeek on braking these are a great pad.

Maybe Jet can chime in on this one!!!! He is good at datalogging but knows nothing about tuning.

I can't answer everything but will give you a bit of an outline. You can calculate the ms of injector opening for when breakpoint occurs. Calc in on HP forums somewhere. I have used a multimeter that has a injector ms function and put wires from the injector into the cabin so I can see where the injector is at. From there I could tell if I was on the lo slope or high slope. You would avoid scaling anywhere around the breakpoint area as unclear whether one or the other. Basically breakpoint is pretty much just off idle. Life would be easier if there was some sort of breakpoint flag in the datalogging. Anyway this is the way I do it. Someone else may do it differently

I suggest forgetting all this safety stuff you are trying to do. Just tune it along the lines of how Ford tuned it. You are trying to do something outside the scope of this tuning tutorial. Once you master the basics then you will be able to answer your own questions above.

What you want to focus on is learning to dial in an injector in order to get actual lambda to match the lambda in the Base Fuel table. Once you get this matching as best you can I would rather adjust bits of the Base fuel table lambda to get to where I want rather than altering the injector slopes. The way I do it is I set the base fuel table all to one figure. Say 12:1. Then thru cruising/idling/moderate acceleration , it is a juggling act mainly between Hi slope, low slope and injector offset. For injector offset I just use the one figure for all voltages unless you have data from a injector supplier. All three influence one another so it takes a bit of juggling to get to where you want. Nevertheless as a tuning exercise, a "real tuner" should be able to take any injector and play around with the above three variables to get the car to drive like stock. But with injectors like ID1000 you have the data and just need a bit of touch up and verification. So yes, very easy. Note that injector offset influences fuel heaps at idle and it is just as important variable as hi and lo slope. You will be in hi slope just off idle also. A sign of poor injector calibration is simply a bad cold start. My Nizpro injectors where I use my data starts first pop and straight into gear with no hesitation. Nizpro supplied data was crap and just caused poor drivability. I still scratch my head about this.

Regarding your fueling question. Just aim for one air/fuel ratio and be done with it. You are trying to tune to fine tolerances with non-live tuning. It is too difficult in my opinion. With aftermarket programmable EFI we have the luxury of being able to do what you propose easily, but not here.

Regarding knock, I don't know about BF (which I believe you are running) but I do know with FG. Just for fun I left the stock timing map in running 15psi in my 2 min tune. It pulls the timing down to 2 deg, not a pink. Does the job very well. I have put about 10 to 15 % toluene and I get full commanded timing. To tune properly you would turn knock control off and use a knock box of some sort . Otherwise you can datalog timing and determine a little of what is going on there, You may have to zero out a few compensation table to get a better picture though.

Its never straight straight, you always need steering input, more confident straight where it is not going to do something stupid

I prefer a mechanical LSD cause of the predictability. As Bizkets said, no hands and it stays straight. Are the Eatons or these worm drives that unpredicatable. I have never tried one, if its harder to keep the worm drive LSDs straight or predictable then that is a bit of a worry. Maybe guys who have had both can chime in.

Can you explain this a bit more. The reason I ask is I have watched a few videos on youtube where guys have lost control in a relatively straight line where I would have thought there should be no problem. With a proper lock up diff I reckon they would have held onto it. But with these new style diffs I am wondering if this "flicking" as you said is unique to these diffs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHurtRVhn98

Personally I wouldn't trust the PWR unit. Still the chance of cross contamination down the track. I replaced my heat exchanger with a genuine one 6/2012 and Expensive Daewoo 5yr red coolant. Now got to decide whether oil cooler or another heat exchange. Might stick another 8r2z7a095bd on. If sticking to the heat exchanger it is getting a new one every 3 yrs. My theory is that the factory fill coolant was not that good and was responsible for taking out a few heat exchangers. When I first changed my coolant after being in the car 3 yrs from new, it wasn't the best. I just changed last week after 3 yrs and the coolant was like new. So I figure if good quality coolant used, it should keep the heat exchanger good. I put in 8yr penrite red coolant this time but will still do the whole thing again in 3 yrs.

Mine 09 FG. THe other day the reverse camera went blank, never did before. But then all went good. We will never know why.

The original steel shim gaskets are the best. The above ones just blow. I got a spare FG turbo manifold where I am considering converting it to a split pulse T4. It really depends on how weld the manifold takes to tig welding. I am pretty sure its a cast steel as opposed to cast iron manifold and should weld up OK. If it does weld up OK then I would consider building up weld to make the divider and add on bits for the bolts. Maybe doable. I was going to run the external wastegates off the turbine. Just an idea cause have always prefered split pulse setups.

Don't drill a hole. You will find the front diff bushes should also be done like in my FG so you still need to take the cradle out. I am pretty sure the drivers side front is the one doing the knocking in my instance.

Read everything on the HP Tuner Forum. There is "the ultimate Ford EFI tuning guide" by Don LaSota which is OK Forget about the SD files for now. Ford has done a pretty good job on them anyway. Once you have gone thru that, give it a couple of weeks to soak in then we can answer your questions. Get your a/f ratio meter connected and start observing air/fuel ratios. Get your scanner working and start observing spark /trims/load etc. At this point you are just learning tuning knowledge and observing data readouts.

Investigate the easy stuff first like what Ralphy said, engine mount. Then you go thru a process of elimination. When you buy a modified car, this is what happens. You can spend alot of time trying to work out problems, sometimes to the point you wish you started with a virgin car. I for one would never put a new clutch pressure plate in a car without balancing it.

Put on a little makeup and a blonde wig and I am sure a few extra blokes will consider coming along.

Don't worry about the SCT tune, We're gonna make you into a tuning wizzard Rollex. We're gonna teach you how to rescale maps, how to create 30psi timing tables, how to scale injectors and then you're gonna go back to your old tuner and tell him look at me, you ripped me off all these years and now I can do a 500hp tunes in less than 5 minutes and you used to say it takes 5 hours. You're gonna become a tuning wizzard Rollex.