turbotrana

Yeh, understanding is the wrong word. I should have said with MGTOW you will get more of an idea as to how they work

Married MGTOW. Seems to contradict itself but being MGTOW does not prevent you having relationships. The whole point is just men doing what they want to do and not being controlled/manipulated by women and having an understanding about what females are really like in nature.

Most woman do not get MGTOW so its best not to discuss it with them. Its more about understanding female nature and getting your head around things they do. You can be a married MGTOW or a MGTOW who avoids women altogether. Just don't be a guy who spends money on and bend over backwards for a woman. They want their 3rd wave feminism, now lets show them what equality is.

Read up/listen to videos on MGTOW. It stands for for Men Going their Own Way and helps understand more about what you are dealing with. Heaps of great content out there.

The devil is in the detail. It could be a good price, but then again he could be bending you over giving you a good reaming up the backside. Findout exactly what is being done cause there is one Perth workshop whos invoicing proceedure goes something like this. Invoice: Engine work $1800 Pay Now, Don't ask questions sucker, I just want your money.

What's hapning gals, anyone stuck it in.

It would be good to get a video under there to see what is happening under load whilst driving.

I am thinking of using this setup. What I would do Luke is measure the exact position of the diff and driveshaft prior to pulling anything out. A few measurements and markings before taking the cradle out will give you more of an idea of where you need to be when time comes to positioning that rear mount. I would also put a string line along the driveshaft 1/2 axles to see if ford positioned the diff so that they are exactly lined up. In mine (on visuals) it looks like pushing the diff forward a little would line this up a little better. Gonna give both Steves and Lukes a mark out of ten when all done.

If they have positioned it with stock bushes and know the depth that they fit in the cradle then that's where it goes and the best way to do it.

You probably got the newer bush unless old stock.The FG newer side bushes look to be much better. Nice welds, looks like positioned about 1 cm forward compared to the picture on pge 1. Might not matter but then might. Anyone got other pics of it all welded up Re: tuning force, the diff arms have the most leverage in stopping that.

Steve, make sure you have the latest version of the stock side bushes. Also I would pay attention to how the side bushes are installed. The factory installs the side bushes with both pointing in one direction but since the diff wants to turn under load I would have thought it best to install them 180 degrees to one another so that the turning force is pushing against the the strongest orientation of the bush (does that make sense)

Was thinking those Cat600 fronts. Was in a car the other day with them and the nolathane rear and was quite ok noise wise. Just a little diff whine.

Who in Perth has fitted one. Are they quiet and what front bushes did you use. Got to do my diff bushes but being quiet with no vibrations is No1 for me. And need to check how close my twin 3" manta exhaust will go to the hat mounts??? Anyone in Perth can take me for a drive or better yet let me thrash their car on a test drive.

Can look up engine and trans tune for anything tuned with SCT3 but not SCT4 I will clear my inbox

By examining the tune numbers, you can usually work out why the cold starts are bad. Its not even "bad tuning". It is "incorrect tuning". If there is no factory start on 98 then YOUR TUNE IS WRONG. Simple. You need to be able to flick the start button, starts quickly, put it straight into gear on cold mornings and take straight off with no hesitation. I know there are some FGs that dont do that from the factory but that is another issue . I don't do alot of high rpm/high load tuning of late but have done enough problem solving with FGs that stall and have poor cold starts to understand what is going on. I don't mind pulling anyones tune in Perth to give my insight into what is going on if they have one of these poor cold start tunes. Tuners hate this happening cause they feel people are ripping off their tunes. But the real reason is they don't want people seeing what has been done and questioning their work. As I said before, if it does not start like a factory tune on 98 with stock cams, it is not tuned correctly and you have paid for a dud tune.

Too many guys out there are recommending tuners based on what they push out of an engine KW wise, even though the tuner delivers a car which has crap cold starts and in some cases poor drivabilty. A good tuner will deliver the car to you with factory like driving manners. If the car has poor cold starts it is simply not tuned correctly and you should not accept it. Of late have seen enough shop tunes to start questioning the ability of these so called " tuners". Either being lazy or just not understanding how to do it properly. Getting the power is the easy stuff. Getting the power and factory drivability is not that hard but seems some shop "tuners" still can't do it, yet have been "tuning" for years. Now going thru a few "shop" transmission tunes. Transmission tunes that are tuned to shift hard on low load/low rpm driving range when quite easily can be tuned to shift alot softer in the cruising range and only hard in the high load/high RPM range. Just lazy or maybe just tailoring to the boy racer who feels he got his moneys worth when it slams into 2nd gear slowly pulling out of the workshop. My advice ask guys how their car starts in the morning and how hard it shifts under 2000rpm. If poor starting and hard shifting then look for another workshop. The power number is irrelevant.

love u Jet and I will love u alot more than u love me if u put up any late model auto FPV 6t tunes (if you have any) on the repository

The FGx file is up on the HP Tuners repository thanks to Jet

no just Tony

#copypastatuningtablesinfullnochangeswhatsoevercanbedone

Been playing around with HP Tuners of late on my 09 FGt. Really happy with what we can do now. Done a "transmission tune", shifts pretty solid and updated parts of the transmission map to a 2015FGX calibration so that the downshifting is much softer (expecially down to 1st). For the upshifting I did pretty much copy and paste from a known transmission tune which is a bit hard changing and now changing it to soften it up to suit my taste. You just copy over one of the modified tables at a time and see what it does to get an idea of how influential each table is. The datalogging is excellent in my books. I recommend anyone who has the inclination to tinker to just get it. For example If you wanted an F6 tune with bigger injectors it is not that hard to simply copy all of the tables over to your tune and it will work no problem. There is alot of copy and paste stuff you can do, just a bit of common sense required. Really enjoying my FG again.

Remember the ring in the front pipe of the exhaust of FGs put there to heat the catalitic converter up quicker. So it would be hard to pass the cold start emissions test which the car manufacturers need to comply with. Pretty sure emission testing stations are all hot start tests so a good injector like ID1000 and twin factory cats would pass if tuned correctly. It would need the injectors to be dialed in really well so that all the closed loop trimmings work properly. E85 should make it easier to pass. In the US they do dump a bit of ethanol in the tank to pass the test. A very important factor is having hot cats just before the testing.

get hp tuners and make the change yourself on the transmission tune. It is one number in the trans tune that needs to be changed to get it to change down to first when coming to a stop under normal driving. Taking off in 2nd tuning and kick back when flooring it is a PIA. It drives much better when taking off in 1st also. It is very easy to do.

Don't rag him boys, he has got the latest Flux Capacitor that allows the voltage boost.