turbotrana

There are different shades of the Taxi white that have changed over the years. I can tell my front bumper has got the wrong shade or just poorly mixed from a respray the dealer did to cover the bottom scrapes we all get. I think (not sure from memory) it has the same paint code, and I think distinguished by yr. I had 4l mixed up to spray some cupboards and I wanted it to match my FG and the mixer mentioned the above. But I wouldn't worry about it if just touching up. You can buy small touch up bottles online, just look. But if you are getting paint mixed find out if the paint mixer is aware of this cause if he isn't then go elsewhere.

I had a problem with a 2009 FG Turbo with it stalling at lights and the revs dropping when comming to a stop. I resolved mine but to cut a long story short I blame the way Ford tune the vehicle can make the return to idle a bit unsettling at times. Is your idle unsettling at times? I don't have a full understanding of what is going on but I can make it not do it. Mine would do it a bit when I would drive up an inclined drive then come to a stop. Now this probably will not make any sense to you but will put it out there for those that do. When going up the drive the fuel trim would trim to take fuel out in closed loop. It would be maybe -7% fuel trim. Then you would come to a stop but the idle areas of the map like to be in the +tve territory and it cant trim down quick enough. Then you would find a 16+:1 air fuel ratio coming back to idle and the idle would struggle until it closed loop to stoich. Otherwise the trims in most situations were +/-3 So now when I tune I make sure I avoid this situation to make sure I have +tve trims around the idle/light load areas. Did that make any sense!!!!. My story is a bit more complex than that but you may be barking up the wrong tree if you think its mechanical is my main point.

How about posting up the invoice.

Would definately consider doing this. http://www.hpsf.com.au/

Its like that across all industries. Some guys simply don't have the ability to get work done to a relatively high standard regardless. I've have heard the phrase "I've been doing the job for 20 years mate" many times, but invariably they have been doing the job wrong for 20 years.

I think its relatively accurate if you are on closed loop all the time. The O2 sensor gives it a reference point where it can calculate the fuel quite well. However if you are on open loop WOT then it could be off by quite a bit I would think. In regards to the Cat Control affecting fuel economy. These can be disabled and I will do a back to back to see how much it affects fuel economy.

You are getting confused. When it is said the factory tune is rich, it is talking about high load open loop parts of the tuning map. In the closed loop sedate driving parts of the tune the engine will run at stoich and even if the calibration is slightly off it will trim to stoich. So it will never be rich cause it runs at stoich in closed loop operation. So please someone tell me how their tuner improved their fuel economy.

For starters, it is really hard comparing different peoples fuel consumption. I have tried 4 different injectors and I found that the Nizpro 700cc drilled injector seems to give me the best fuel consumption. There are injectors that will use more fuel in normal driving parts of the tune. I have come to the conclusion that although you might see a fuel ratio number on your a/f meter, it does not mean you have that a/f ratio in the combustion chamber. And please someone tell me how your tuner can improve your fuel economy. If he butchers the tune he can make it worse, but not better than the factory tune.

I chucked in some 20w50 in my FG and a BMW528i . Both engines were a bit more noisy on start up. Went back to 15w40 on both and all back to normal. So that little difference in viscosity can make a difference I noticed.

Get rebalanced. Happened to me a couple of times where prior to new tyres OK then new tyres and vibrates. The kids doing the balancing stuff up sometimes.

What injectors are you running. If you are out by as much as 17%, I find (on my FG) that it does not like to go into closed loop at idle when fuel trims are really off. Put stock injectors in and go to Ford to get reflashed if you have to.

As Ratter said. Get a stock tune and start from that. You should be able to get +5 -5 trims very easily by juggling low slope and inj offset.

I was thinking about doing this also. I want to remove the battery tray and cut a 4" hole to fit the air cleaner into the enclosed area forward of the wheel arch. I don't like having the air cleaner in the engine bay.

that 60ft time is amazing

Council will give retrospective approval. There is nothing that can be done in relation to where the house is now. It was not uncommon many years ago for houses and boundaries to be out by 300mm. But now not so common with all the accurate survey instruments there are. You or the builder need to establish who made the mistake but it falls on the builder in anycase. I highly doubt its the surveyer, but grano workers sometimes only have half a brain from smoking too much sh*t on the job, then these mistakes happen. Tell us how you go.

Just ring up Dave at KPM and get their complete setup. No risk. As a greeny/newby, I would not buy any injector off that website unless you knew what you were doing.

Just read up on Hylomar Spray. It seems its not anaerobic.

I just looked at the Hylomar website. There used to be a spray one but couldn't see it. Have you a link to the spray one? or the one to be used.

I would do all the core plugs at the same time. Use stainless steel plugs A stock Ford MLS with no sealer will not fix anything. MLS really need a sealer IMO. You said you are going to use Hylomar which people have used with success. The spray one is easiest to use and I read the other day its like loctite, it dries hard in the absense of oxygen. I never new that so although I tried it many years ago, I didn't have confidence in it cause I never saw it harden. I have used white 3 Bond 1211 but its very hard to use and you worry about sealing up passages. But it does work well when done right. Even on freshly machined surfaces MLS will leak around the water passages. There is a gasket I saw the other day with a black coating that might be OK but pricey at about $250. But in anycase I like a sealant. If you use a sealant I wouldn't worry about machining the surfaces unless really bad. Many times if not a good machininist with a good machine they will make it worse thant what you already have.

He is the one who butchered the tune in the FG I bought and left it with a stall for the original owner. The original owner took it back a couple of times to get fixed but ended up getting rid of it because of the drivability problem. So I thought yeh, this shouldn't be too hard to solve. Probably took 30 hours of my time to work out the problem. I originally thought nothing to do with the tuner but turned out to be all related to what the tuner did. So if you are lucky you get ripped off and a tune that works. So if you are unlucky you get ripped and a tune that stalls.

Who was it. No harm in putting up a name as you are just stating fact. Its like any industry. If they think they can, they will. Especially when you have not discussed price in the first place.

Thanks Gunna. I love the forums. Such a great resource. Sixpacks last post helped me heaps.

Thank Jesus for the forums