turbotrana

The simplest thing is just to go with the FordXR6turbo.com sticker. Does not need to be that big, just to identify that you belong to the forum. I drive a G6e but the Xr6 thing is not a problem for me.

I would like a sticker. Many times I see guys on the road and wonder if they might be forum members.

She faked it

But then how much Nox is created when we search for oil reserves create the infrastructure drilling the oil transport personel to and from the drilling site refine the oil deliver it to the pump etc, etc. And that is not to mention depleting our oil reserves so that we now have to frack/destroy environments and dig up oil shale. I would estimate a saving of 10 to 20% for a petrol engine when running lean burn compared to running at stoich. In the 1990s my EA Falcon would get 350km per tank with the ford tune, with lean burn tuning improvements 600km on the same trip. I don't think the whole emissions equation was done properly

The Supercharged V6 VT I have is lean burn. Runs very lean cruise ratios. I believe they just used the USA tune in these. I disagree with tuning for emissions. They only look on one side of the equation and that is what is coming out of the exhaust. Big fuels savings are there with lean burn and when you factor the emissions involved in the manufacturing of the extra fuel required to have vehicles comply with emissions, I don't think we are doing the world any favours.

Oil pressure not an issue.

I think I was about 13 or 14 when my dad had his brakes worked on and we drove back to the mechanics cause the pedal went pretty close to the floor. The mechanic did not bleed it properly. From that day onwards I have never trusted mechanics or tradesmen until they earnt trust. Bad tradesmen are a major reason why alot of cars need to be scrapped prematurely.

I don't really see any problems. Some may not like the drivability part of it. I prefer it ticking over. The problems I see probably relate to emissions and that may be the reason why Ford tuned the trans to hold onto gears for so long. Not only that, having the gearing change so close to one another can cause issues as the gear changing is all speed dependent, no manifold vacuum component. Leaning the tune more than stoich seems to help with things a little. On a flat road, it is not labouring or hurting the engine IMO. I do it for fuel economy purposes, it is only very minor improvements but with other changes its another 100km+ per tank in City driving. I was tuning at 15:1 in most of the driving parts of the tune in the early 90s when that was considered the wrong thing back then. Now its normal.

You need a ethanol tanker following you everywhere you go or you need to visit the ethanol station 50-100 extra times a year.

The only way you can alter shifting patterns is via HP Tuners or SCT tuning. The X Cal 3 wont do it. Hp Tuners just recently did the ZF tuning side of the software. There are 53 shift tables and about 40 seem to be potentially used in my FG tune. We dont really know what table is for what driving ATM. Alot of it is making changes to tables and seeing what effect it has. So far we can get the car to take off in 1st gear every time I found the cruising map so I have made mine shift into 6th at about 1000rpm In manual mode I can get it to shift earlier. We are waiting for the new scanner version to be released to see if it will flag what table is being used. If it allows us to do that then we will know what table does what. So if you really want to play with gear shifting, get HP Tuners and start playing.

I've used a set of hardware drills and a black and decker. It does work.

There are about 40 shift tables in the tune. When you are a bit heavy with the accelerator it changes to a more aggressive shift table. Until the new datalogging comes along in HP Tuners we really don't know what table is for what but I have found the cruise table and currently have it shifting into 6th gear at 65kph and around 1000rpm. Just the way I like it.

I thought Ferodo DS pads were aggressive enough to keep the disc true on my FG. After 10k km the pedal was starting to pulsate. As an experiement, without machining I put Ultimates in and after about 10k its all good. Takes a while to true up but eventually does. I used to think the hub was at fault but a runout test with a dial indicator gauge it was good. Even with my VT Commode which had shudder problems, I tried a few combos but Ultimates seemed to be the only cure. I know some guys have success with soft pads with certain discs but I am just saying if you tried everything and don't mind the dust, try Ultimates. They give good initial bite also.

There is a simple fix. Bendix Ultimates. They machine the disc for you whilst you are driving. So whilst the cast iron shifts around over heat cycling, the Ultimates are constantly skimming the disc. Two sets of pads per disc, no machining of the disc thru out the life of the disc. THe disc is a consumable, just like your pads. You can chase all sorts of theories but a non aggressive pad on a hat disc will always cause issues. Of course make sure the hub surface is clean. Yes the pads are dirty but either that or clean wheels and discs that pulsate after 10000km.

Maybe what Jet said, new Tuner. What is that ticking noise in the engine bay. Sounds not healthy mechanically. The issue I am on about is where everything drives well, just an occasional stall at the traffic lights and idle dipping. Not hunting at idle, something is way out for that to happen.

What state are you in?

I had this problem in my 09 FG G6e. Its fixed but long story.

I tend to stick with Bendix Ultimates. Why?. Cause they wear the discs out and by wearing the disc they keep it true. I consider the disc a consumable so I get two sets of pads to one set of discs and I dont bother machining between pad changes. Cast iron by nature tends to shift around and with a cast iron hat even more. I tried Ferodo DS last time and took them out after 10000km cause they started shuddering. Chucked in the Bendix and after about 10000km trued the disc up. But they are dirty, just a price you got to pay. Plus they stop well for the street. I did suspect the front bearing hubs when I first bought my FG and the crap disc and pads started shuttering but I put a dial gauge on the hubs and surprisingly found that they were very true and not a problem. Put the dial gauge on the disc and out by alot. Even new discs are not true but the ultimates will true them up.

What pads r u using?

How are the FG2 diff bushes performing?. I notice that the rear diff bush has a bump stop design. Also super pro have come out with a bump stop design. IMG.pdf

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2avh1n_funniest-penalty-kicks-in-the-history-of-football_school

http://www.clarkosperformance.com/ He may be able to sort something out for you

Its got nothing to do with the oil. Your bearings have normal heavy load wear, not that bad. The ring lands on the cast stock piston are simply not designed for the loads we put on them. They will do that. However that cam wear is a bit of a concern.

Best thing you can do it run a good 98 octane fuel. Second is if you are in this situation learn to know what noises to look out for. If you cant hear a knock box it very easy to use. Third, invest in a wideband gauge and learn where it is meant to be. Its good to have piece of mind but once you are past 350kw you got to start learning stuff and not rely on a tuner, esp considering you are in Darwin.