turbotrana

I don't get that many calls of late. The last ones I was getting were the survey ones trying to get their foot around the cold calling laws. The best way is just to hang up the moment you realize they are trying to sell/scam something. I did noticed a drop in calls after I started hanging up immediatley, may have been coincidental or they may take you off the calling list. If you decline politely then I think they keep you on. You can't compete against 1 Billion Indians.

Rubbish, if a red light comes on, it means rev the engine up and drive it as much as you can to see if the red light goes off

I think the oil feed to the little end is quite important for very high powered vehicles. I remember someone (I think Nizpro) show pictures of gaulling of the pin and piston under very heavy load. That was years ago, I also remember the pins years ago were not that strong and bending, so the pins of today maybe wont be so much of a problem. Nevertheless I would rather use a pin with an oiling hole to the small end any day. The H Beam Argos I used in my last rebuild couldnt accomodate a hole to the small end so maybe need another design of rod as have already been mentioned.

Yep, my cousin does this also. Red light comes on, noises hapning and he just drives as if there is nothing wrong. I like the bit about it not letting you rev it past 2500rpm!!!!

Jet, r u saying the FG F6 cams are a different grind to the XR6t cams?

I would have been in the 1000 rwhp club if I didn't get married. Well done.

I'd say most tuners rape these tables from an emissions perspective

Its not the tuning that stuffs the emission. A stock Falcon with stock injectors and exhaust, but maybe with an intercooler and more boost dialed in should not alter the emissions of the vehicle. The engine will still run closed loop during cruise and idle. Put different injectors in and its a ? as to whether emissions have gone up or down. Some brands will make it worse. There is a possibility some will make it better. Then factor into dumb ass tuners who have no clue on scaling injectors then its just a big question mark as to what has happened. Although there are trims, bad scalling does not help. Then add an exhaust, chances are that the cat converter is not up to standard, or in a position where it does not heat up quick enough to reduce start up emissions. I think modifying the intake does not affect emissions so much but does affect intake noise, this is why it is considered a problem. So at the end of the day, regulators don't understand it themselves, so they just want you to keep it stock with maybe allowing just an intercooler which would not affect emissions.

Maybe look at Pirelli P Zero Corsa System tyres. They have a 285/35/19 and they have good tread depth and very soft compound. I got 13000km out of them. New and a hot road gripped well witht the 255/35/19 size You want a 35 profile for better take offs, 30 profile a bit small

See you guys there at 7

Save a small one for me. R we going to Scabs grilled on Friday?

He got a girlfriend just after his last post. No more build now!!!!

Xr6tman, if we meet up at Scabs Grilled for a little forum get together, the burger is on me for your efforts.

That small one will do the job, where do I sign up.

lets do it

The bottom one in that line up

I replied in the other Compressor wheel thread. All good. Just do it and make sure you torque the nut properly to not alter the runout of the turbine shaft. Also I would tend to do this on a virgin turbo only. It the turbo is not virgin, you really just don't know how the previous guy screwed it. The turbine shaft runout would need to be checked and so whilst the turbo is out of the car you may as well get the balance checked.

The turbo is great. The CNC wheels of today are so well balanced. It purrs while spinning down. I was very surprised compared to when it had the cast wheel on which was very noisy. I thought the bearings were shot. I do think that the Perth Tuner who upgraded this FG turbo to 3582 specs just put on a 82 wheel and cover without balancing cause it sounded so rough and noisy . But what I think he did was take a wheel from another turbo which had meat taken off the nose to suit another assembly, and put it on this car which you cant do cause the wheel is unbalanced. As I bought the car modified, I can't be sure if he did do this, but suspect he did cause it would be one of a few "scratch my head" things he has done.

This thread will still be here in 10 years time!!! A dial indicator gauge is your friend. Use it. Use it before you take your old discs off to measure the runout of the old disc, use it to measure the runout of the hub, use it to measure the runout when you put the new disc on. And when your brake shudder comes back again cause you used pads that are not abraisive enough, use it again. As I said before, cast iron moves. A cast iron disc that has a runout of a few thou when new and 20 thou after 10000km means only one thing. The cast iron has moved. The only way to stop it is to do what alot of Euro cars do. They run agressive abraisive brake pads that wear the disc (which is a consumable) but keep the disc true.

What was the other stuff?

Don't do them in PINK. Buttplug might want it in pink but for the us hetros maybe another more male colour.

I was only running petrol, so not much KW, as I said, not proven recipe on ethanol horsepower. There is also a thread somewhere on the tuning side of the equation in helping the head stay on. Jet (buttplug) can fill you in on that one.

smallish sticker for back window. Maybe one of those female body stickers that Commode drivers have, then again, maybe not.

Personally I don't think a 12mm stud should pose problems. I have torqued down a 12.5mm stud with over 200ft/lb, in actual fact the torque wrench went to 200ft/lb and after that used a breaker bar to the point where the nut deformed and I didn't have issue with the stud. You need to make sure that it is a non-wasted shank stud. I think you should look at more what head torque values are to be used, MLS gasket brand and whether or not you use any sealant on the head. Personally, this is not a proven recipe as I have not tested at 550rwkw and above level, marriage put a stop to that. I don't particularly have faith in the Ford MLS gasket. Its too thin IMO, no give. I would try the more expensive Permaseal one with a couple of more layers. It has more give. Or you could even take two ford gaskets to make up a 5 layer MLS gasket. I would be using 100ft/lb+ on the studs. Have used 120ft/lb, but you need to have the engined torque plate honed with the machining using your proposed head torqueing value. There are possible issues of bore distortion but the falcon block seemed OK to me. I do like using the 3 bond sealant on the deck and head. I have used copper and steel gaskets and have not had water leak using the white 3 bond 1211 sealant. Also get some really thick and widest washers laser cut for the head bolts. Alluminium does sink with those pissy ARP washers that you get. They don't need to be hardenned washers