turbotrana

http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Tony_Goodlich/library/Mobile%20Uploads?sort=3&page=1 I could not take a photo of the vacuum side in situ as it is bolted under the intake manifold. Basically you have three chambers in the canister. The middle chamber is filled with scourers. The bottom side fitting of the cannister goes to the PCV valve. There is a fitting on the top middle of the cannister that goes to the inlet manifold. There is also a fitting on the bottom of the cannister that goes to the sump but it has a one way valve and allows oil to drain back into the engine on shut down but closes when there is vacuum. Then on the overflow side (under load) you have that long cannister next to the rocker cover. Its about 25mm diameter and connects to the back of the rocker cover. The cannister is baffled inside and connected to the intake of the turbo. It allows oil to drain under gravity to the back of the rocker. Its hard to get your head around but it works.

If you can show me an easy way to get pics down to 33kb I will. I can get them just under 100kb and could post pictures previously but 33kb just does my head in. I don't want to use that imdur thingo if can avoid it. I have pics of how I weld up the catch cans also. I use a system where the oil drains back into the engine on shut down via one way valves and gravity.

Alot of the setups here are not really the way to do it (like running both hoses to one can). You have two sides to a PCV system. One side works at idle and cruise and sucks from the rocker cover into the intake when in vacuum. The other side vents the engine under load and vents it into the intake whist the other side connected to the intake has a one way valve in it to stop any pressure going into the engine. To do this properly you need an oil/air seperator for each side. It is an emissions device but if done properly you can make your car run as intended but even cleaner by having something that catches oil correctly.

http://imgur.com/4TN25Cy This is what I mean. This is the mains on an ED crank in a drift engine that takes alot of punishment. You will see that the mains hole is not really centred. You only do this to get better oil to the bigends as mains dont suffer but bigends do. It will lower the oil pressure a bit but that is not a bad thing cause I found with good oil mods you can run 40psi under load and all will still be good depending on the motor and how things are setup.

I notice no attention to the oiling holes. I attack these with a 3mm burr and elongate them quite a bit on the mains and in one direction on the bigends. I even elongate the holes in the block to match the bearings. You also need to make sure all holes in the crank are centred to the bearing. I first did this on a Expensive Daewoo 202 years ago to make the bigends survive a bit better. I found a noticible difference on the bigends doing this. I was also looking at a bugatti crank on youtube a while back and saw they did pretty much the same thing. I would put up picks but I cant get them to the 33kb size.

I'd go with that possibiliy

Its hard to find a grano worker to do this as they are apparently not allow to do it anymore but in the olden days they used to sprinkle cement on top of the freshly laid concrete and trowel it in to get a smooth finish. Its very durable and a much better finish to work on IMO as the rough finish you get now just gets clogged up with grease and hard to clean. I don't like painted concrete surfaces as they mess easy. Probably too late now but its got to be sealed very well from the elements otherwise your tools will suffer with surface rust and dust from the outside. Double brick over single brick as moisture just goes thru the first brick and definately a ceiling. I would put a lintel anywhere in the brickwork where you would consider extending down the track. That way you can knock out that section of the wall easy if ever you considered this.

How do u get those big picks down to the 30kb size?

WARNING (Amperage) The Walbro and Aeromotive pumps used in either single or dual applications obviously produce more flow than stock pumps - BUT AMPERAGE IS MUCH HIGHER. Example: Up to 73% 14.2-17.2 vs 9.9 amps (Walbro Gss340). Therefore, the stock wiring system is incapable of handling the increased loads and must be upgraded or replaced. This higher amperage also negates using the BOOST-A-PUMP™ and it’s 17.5-20V advantage. The BOOST-A-PUMP™ is not designed to operate these high amp pumps. Check out the flow numbers and cost of the 2 approaches. See Kenne Bell “Fuel & Horsepower Estimator” to determine HP. Just read this from the above post. As you said it pretty much rules out voltage boosting for these high amperage pumps. Jet. People who think they know everthing annoy those of us who do.

I hope those fire rings work out. Where did you get them. In my day could never find them. They look a bit close to the water jacket though. You didn't touch the flats on the chambers. I know with the Supra mob they used to take out one side (I think the exh side) as it was a souce of something (think detonation). I am talking about very high boost mtrs. But with ethanol not really a problem maybe. How much attention to the oiling system have you given. I've done mtrs where there has been minimal attention to detail to oil passages to alot of teardroping of every entry and exit hole and the big ends definately were heaps better on the prepped mtr after abuse. A 3mm metal burr grinding bit is your friend here. Some of the oiling holes are not even centered very well so it all needs attention in performance applications IMO.

My main purpose in designing a fuel system is making sure that if something fails, it minimises the chance of destroying the engine. Trigger pumps are high risk in my books. .Jet just loves living on the edge.

I have the battery right next to it in the boot and big cable. Running an 044 main and a 5 amp intank pump at 18v is pushing the MSD unit at its limit. That is why if HiPSI is going to run two pumps he needs to make sure the voltage booster unit he chooses is up to it. Two 460s is a large current load.

that's on the output side but what about the input side. That is where the current draw is the issue.

HI PSI is just gathering data atm. He does not seem like someone who needs a tuner to work anything out for him unless maybe they have been there, done that which I doubt many would have with this subject. He seems like he can work it out himself. I have used an MSD voltage booster for many years. The product is reliable however I found it very demanding on the wiring when wired per manufacturers diagram (continuously on) and draws alot of current. I definately think its best to wire with a relay and hob switch/ecu switch so that the unit is not operating when cruising and will switch on when you need it. Basically the way herrods do it (I think). Basically you have a two speed pump and it works great. No stress on the wiring and alternator. The only real feature you want on a voltage booster is the ability to vary the pump output voltage from say 15v to 20+voltage and you need to make sure it has the output to power the two pumps in the KPM fuel module. You will find most modules can only power one big pump continuously if you look at the specs. If you need the fuel I think its the way to go rather than more pumps. The MSD has a vac/boost reference which when used increases voltage as boost rises. It is of little value in my opinion, not a feature I would look for.

Just my personal experience. I took apart an e series engine that had been together just a few weeks (I was the fixer, not the phuckeruper in the first build). The deck had been machined and no coolant (only water) had been used in engine in the 3 weeks the engine was together. It used an AU MLS gasket. You could clearly see via slight rust markings on the deck that the water does seep quite far into the gasket areas around the water passages. The E series and B series engines like to push water on the exhaust side. When you think about it, it is pretty fancifull to think a layer of steel that has no give is going to seal between a machined piece of cast iron and alluminium. The factory finishes do a pretty good job, but if you have a bad machinist not so good. So although it will seal around the combustion chambers because of the pressing of the steel around this area, it does not seal very well around the water jackets. That is why alot of these steel gaskets are Viton lined (the ford mls is not). The other alternantive that I have used on copper and mls is threebond. But with threebond you got to be carefull that you dont block the water/oil passages and get it into the combustion chamber so got to be carefull using it. But it does work well I have found. I have never used hylomar but think this is a good option cause you spray it and less issue with making blockages. I would even consider taking a 3 layer MLS gasket apart and spraying inbetween the gasket as well so hylomar between each layer and against the head and deck.

Not normally with MLS gaskets. But it wouldn't harm cracking them off a little and retorquing. My experience just going around without cracking them off a little is that with a solid gasket like copper or steel the nuts didn't torque up anymore unless you had a soft head and the washers sunk into the ally.

Did you sort out the stalling issue you had?

What do you think of this injector scaling Ratter? Its for ID1000 on an FGxr6

I've always used bendix ultimates to prevent shudder long term. I did try Ferodo DS recently with new T3s thinking that they were aggressive enough to keep the disc true. They started to shudder just after a few thousand km. Then without machining I swapped bendix ultimates in without machining of the disc. It took over 5000km to get rid of the shudder but it did true the disc up and no more shudder. They are dirty pads but they do have that good initial bite which is important for a street pad and keep the discs pretty true.

Great write up. Did you manage to work out the opening and closing points of the intake and exhaust on those cams. I was going to get a carbon fibre driveshaft. I looked under my FG with the Manta twin 3" and there aint no way a single piece driveshaft is gonna have room. I guess the routing of the V8 exhaust is somewhat different. The Nizpro exh may have some room there??

Not normal, I've built a few engines and if you put in the same bore they will measure up the same. Try measuring in the same bore, same posi just to double check that rings are the same. I did some Wiesco pistons recently and the rings they supplied measured up fine.

This may enlighten some of the young blokes. Most of the older blokes already know its about resources with a large percentage of women (not all women though).

There is a pic floating around comparing the stock chain and I think an Atomic one. The stock one is alot weaker. There is also a pic of a failed tensioner. I don't know what the solution would be to improve on the tensioner but I would look into it for my build. Maybe improved oil feed to the tensioner or hardening of the tensioner maybe.