Puffwagon

WMMFGT: no noticeable water in my zf and not much oil in the coolant. Caught it early thankfully. What numbers you got on the big 3 mate?? aka how much ya bench bro?

Mine did something similar a few months back. It was making a high pitched noise and was jerky from closed throttle. It wouldn't drive slowly either. I'm pretty sure it was the idle minimum vss being set incorrectly. I would have to compare maps to confirm.

Heh. I just bought a honda but having owned plenty of holdens it seems more fitting.

If ford is fo mo co then what is honda?

Spot on. I was elaborating on this so people that are unaware of the how and why have some understanding of the process. What I wrote plus your last comment should leave no one confused.

But why or how Ralph?

It appears so.

Another easy way to think about it is this; We expect our injectors to flow consistent amounts of fuel for the duty cycle they are operating at. For example; x fuel at 10%dc and 2x at 20%dc regardless of boost level. We also expect that there will be a enough flow available to maintain the spray pattern and consistent pressure to ensure the injector is operating within it's intended parameters. Let's also say for ease of understanding that our rail pressure is 60 psi. When we add 30 psi of boost for hectic skids we lose half of our flow because there is 30 psi pushing against the injectors. This will affect the amount of fuel available for the commanded duty cycle as well as potentially affect the spray pattern and other injector variables. We can also end up with fluctuating pressure in the fuel rail as the injectors open and close if the return flow is not sufficient. When we go nuts and turn it up to 60 psi for 200kph power skids we find that no fuel will flow at all. 60 psi of fuel pressure plus 60 psi of boost means no fuel pressure. Hence we have a fuel reg that provides our set fuel pressure plus boost pressure.

Yes but not repeatedly. It will get heatsoaked quickly at higher boost levels.

The exhaust has gotta be hot enough so the fuel ignites eg; dyno run or wot action on the road and also enough fuel on decel. Without these two things you won't get flames.

I live half an hour north of Paralowie. The missus works there though. We got some maccas there last night at about 630. There was a na ba or bf peeling out one wheel when they left.

Yesterday was a long day. I drove from my place to Aldinga then back to Paralowie then back to Aldinga then back to mine. It took ten hours worth of driving, child minding and stuffing around before I got home. f*ck peak hour traffic, I think I'll stay home for a few months now. So in a way there was too much puffing on the wagon aka boosting the ford whenever possible.

Ok I just reread my post and it came out wrong. What I meant is that it "should be" rebuilt with genuine parts but may not be if you aren't asking the questions or know what's up. I must have been half asleep.

When it annoys me enough I'll edit the registry to prevent updating then wait until microsoft pulls their finger out to fix the issue.

Ok fair enough. It is a good feeling when you wake up and aren't tired though. 8:30 p.m bedtime ftw!

It's kind of like you think you should stay in bed cos you're used to being tired but you aren't so you get up early and wonder what to do because you know you should be sleeping but you're not. Also I feel good cos it's Friday! Not that it means much for a stay at home dad but at least my wife will be home all weekend so I have some adult company! Hooray! Plus she can change some nappies lol.

Windows 10 failing to install updates and making my computer take a minute to boot up instead of 10 seconds. Ahh first world problems strike again.

I was happy with ATS. Bill is a friendly bloke and seems to always have time for you. There are generic bearing sets available for guys that don't know. If you are paying 500 dollars for a rebuild then this is what you're paying for. "Probably" means "should be", but we all know what "should be" isn't necessarily what happens.

This was why my first question was, "Why are you getting a second hand turbo?". I would have only mentioned a couple of things otherwise. I would have mentioned what Ralph said in regard to bearing sounding notchy or having a cyclic scratching or other noise. They all have a slight noise in them though. Also I would say pull the chra out to inspect the wheels. I had damage to my turbine wheel that wasn't visible from the outside. It was easily fixed though so a few little dings isn't a throwaway. You want at least 2 litres a minute oil flow into your turbo as well so check that too. Just let 500 ml come out in 15 seconds though. You don't want to drain your sump lol. I think you about have it covered mate. Check everything mentioned and you should be gold.

http://www.bitelabs.org/ Ok then.....

No worries. I pm'd you a link to the shop where I went.

There is a picture on Google of 275s on the back. You can pick up nangkang ns2 255 semis for less than 150 each fitted. I went from 3rd gear power skids on stock tyres to having traction mostly. The semis still fry second when they're cold but with hot tyres and a full tank of fuel they just slip a bit till about 80kph.

I use a cheap 255/40/17 semi for the back. Heaps more grip and cheaper than road tyres by a fair margin. You can fit 275 mt's on the back if you want.

A genuine chra can be had for $1k to $1100. A second hand turbo plus a rebuild wouldn't be much cheaper.