Puffwagon

Pretty much.

Mine looks very similar.

That's my thoughts @-Stever-. I haven't tried it yet but I think I should do a gentle cruise up my tuning road to cool it off then pull over and do a run. I guess this won't add power to the car rather than help adjust the timing vs iat or boost vs iat map.

I've had success insulating pipes with old socks and electrical tape. I'm pretty sure there are better ways to lower the intake charge these days.

It's interesting that you mention heat soak. I had thought of that, due to the large amount of exposed metal pipe. After some logging the other day, I found that my iat's dropped massively during a 3rd gear pull from 50kph, as my (similar to op's) piping would have been hot from lack of cold air through the pipes. For a town car I can see that heat soak would be be an issue that needs to be addressed, primarily due to the lack of airflow. It does affect the way our engines operate, for those that aren't aware.

True dat, I should have looked a bit closer. Agreed they are 2.5 inch pipes. That thing should already choochoo like a mofo, if the compressor housing and wheel are stock. Maybe it has a split in one of the silicone pipe connectors. When I split my tb joiner the choochoo disappeared.

If you want lots of choochoo then you can block your recirc valve. I'm not keen on hacking up airboxes despite the power or noise gains. Not so much a problem for me but for the person on the receiving end.....

For general use, oil pressure and engine coolant temperature would be my pick. I've heard that Autometer has some of the best quality.

I've had the same wideband setup (Lc-1) for about 6 years now on various cars and currently 20 months on my Ford. The only issues I've had sensor wise was the O2 sensor dying when it got doused in e85 during a fuel related failure. This wasn't on the Ford though. My gauge cups melted last summer but when the car gets to nearly 80c you'd expect some things to melt. I bought some stuff from ebay and installed it myself. It did need a little filing to make it fit properly. I think the kit I bought was around the $200 mark and came with the dash infill, gauge cups and a boost and oil pressure gauges and sender. The boost gauge seems to work fine and I can't comment on the oil pressure sensor as I've been too lazy to wire it up as yet.

To add to the thread, there is a 3.4 stroker kit available for the rb motors that is only a few hundred cc shy of the 3.7 stroker available for the ford. Money and common sense aside, that's just a few days r&r with the build and tune in there too.

You will definitely need an afr gauge for road tuning. A boost gauge is helpful in this scenario too. Those are the only two I have installed. Aside from that nothing else is necessary. Just chuck in whatever you want to keep an eye on or use nothing at all.

I just cooked 2 pies; beef and mushroom and hungarian goulash. Two minutes in the microwave and then 5 minutes in the turbo oven.

Length has a much lesser effect on airflow than girth does, and is different when going in vs coming out, kinda like bangin a broad. While it is true that you want the shortest route possible, it is more important to choose the right diameter for your application. While there is a formula available to choose the right size pipe, I haven't thought about it in years and cbf googling right now. Something something airspeed something something between mach 0.3 and mach 0.4 or too much drag or something. To roughly summarize you want 2.5 inch pipes as short as possible for the majority of xr6 applications.

Yep we are mate. Next year will hold all sorts of fun times for us all. Howdi @k31th

Ok bros he has to remove all the parts from each car yeah? He has to put the stock parts in the blue car yeah? So all the parts are out on the floor of his shed. Just for sh*ts and giggles he can put the go fast parts in the red car for the cruise! Yeah who ever said I don't have good ideas?!

More work involved but greater reward. I'd take an f6 over a ba any day.

http://m.southernmobilewelding.com/ Google is a wonderful thing. Use it and make some calls. I feel obligated to point out that there is a large difference between being able to swing spanners and learning how to weld overnight. There is more to welding than just pulling a trigger and imho no one should be welding diff or subframe mounts with no or extremely limited experience. If you aren't competent with a grinder and there's no shame if you're not, the welding company will have the old mount off and cleaned up in minutes. Once you have the diff in the cradle a qualified welder will make short work of the job.

Well after nearly a couple of months off barring one or two trial sessions (and drinking a metric fark tonne of beer) I managed to get some training under my belt. Nothing spectacular as I didn't want to snap my back up again and definitely took it very easy on my shoulders. I know that after a few weeks of gentle sessions like today I'll be able to up the volume and continue to make the gains that I was previously. Did a bunch of band work to get the blood flowing etc. Bench 20 x 20 kg 10 x 60 kg 8 x 80 kg 5 x 90 kg 2 x 110 kg Tried 120 and failed. Missus got the spot though so all good. Standing row 20 x 20 kg 10 x 60 kg 8 x 80 kg 6 x 90 kg Stopped there cos didn't want to snap back. Usually go 10 kg heavier than bench but whatever. Shoulder press 20 x 20 kg 12 x 30 kg 10 x 40 kg 8 x 40 kg Felt twinges and stopped there Bicep work 20 x 20 kg 2 arm reverse curl 20 x 30 kg barbell curl 15 x 40 kg barbell curl 8 x 50 kg barbell curl Got lazy and stopped there. All done with free weights and the missus even got in some beginner training. We'll do legs and more back tomorrow but I'm going to keep it light because I'd rather get some training in than none cos I snapped my back again. I'll keep squats and deadlifts to a max of 100 kg for a month or two until I know I'm in the clear.

Yeah my back's better enough to get back into lifting so beer drinking can have a rest for a while. I've got a 20kg bag of whey powder and a shed full of weights that are calling to me. Edit: Plus I'm getting too fat.

Sup errrybody! Green tea for breakfast mmm yum...not.

I guess the worst that could happen is that the car has been run with an undetermined amount of water in the engine and transmission. Water is not a good lubricant for bottom end bearings or any moving part. The clutchpacks will get destroyed pretty quickly with water in the transmission. $10k might be parts value but you're not buying confirmed serviceable parts on a pallet, it's an entire flood damaged, written off vehicle with unknown damage to running gear. There is a chance that everything is fine but you won't know until you open it up. You also need to ask yourself if you want to keep a progressively stripped car in your yard for years on the off you need parts. I agree with other people in this thread. It's not worth it for parts or for the risk of unseen damage. Like my wife just said, "Ten grand is a lot of parts".

I have a corsair rm1000 psu so that's all good for this setup. I have read that the memory controller in the i7 4790k's is "weak" and it's hit and miss if you can actually get your ram to run over 1600Mhz which is what the cpu is rated to handle. Heat wise it's ok and rarely sees more than 75 degrees while gaming.

Yep I did that. Everything is up to date. It ran on a couple of 8 gig sticks at 2100 for about 8 months with the cpu at 4.8 and was fine. Then I tried pushing it to 5.0 and it didn't like it. Memtest failures left and right. I swapped the ram to 4x8gig sticks rated to 2400 and couldn't get them to run at 2400 no matter what. The best result I've come to is 4.6 on the cpu and 2100 on the ram. It'll run 4.8@2100 for days on end but as soon as I start gaming it says nope. It also says nope to 2400 on the ram regardless of cpu frequency and despite voltages and timings. I've tried upping voltages for the memory controller and it doesn't help. I'm no guru but I've researched and fiddled for days on end and can't find a fix so I've settled for 4.6 and 2100. Imo it's either the cpu or the mobo that is saying no.

My memory is rated to 2400 but it won't run there no matter what I do. It seems like the best compromise where I have it all set now.