Puffwagon

I haven't used it so I can't describe it first hand. I did do some tentative research and it seems that it could add another level of logging/tuning to a vehicle. Data logging is already covered through other methods and obviously boost control has been too. From my very brief read it seems that this unit has a superior ability to fine tune and control a boost curve with input from primary, self contained, input provided data that hasn't been translated from another application. Is this even necessary when we can already log data and control boost through the various commonly used ecu configurations? Are there issues controlling boost through current methods that this could surmount? Personally I can tune by feel/experience and have no need of any boost data to tune my street car. This would be the case for many commercial tuners too I would hope and could remove any need for this product or one like this. While I can appreciate a stand alone unit such as this I also wonder how practical it would be for the Ford community considering that the stock boost control in our cars is sufficient for 99% of applications? In summary, with no first hand contact and no gauge of the quality of the hardware or software (I didn't download it for a play yet) but with faith that it works as described, I'm leaning toward it being overkill for a street driven xr6 application but may have some valuable input to drag or circuit racing. As always, I'm just a puffwagon and may not know my arse from a hole in the ground. Edit: The manual.

Well furk.

Between this thread and the bullsh*t on the other one it sounds like high school bickering. Wtf? Ok fair enough start a thread cos start a thread, valid point. No problems here. Because someone tuned a car with high hp that has rpm on the x axis is a reason to start a thread???? Who gives a fark? I'm actually with ya Arron with the rpm thing, not that it means anything, apart from having to extrapolate it yourself from road speed, but I'd just prefer it with rpm. Not to have a go at you bud but the original post was vague as fark and then you change lanes by saying that you misled us about the turbo specs. I try to get along with people but what the fark is in the water in W.A lately?

Have a look on page 42. It's called tps rate of change. This particular part of the haltech is used for fuel tuning. I've spent a lot of time tuning this part of the ecu to get perfect throttle manners and engine characteristics whether ice cold or at operating temp. Lol the missus and neighbours must have loved me cos to tune this part you basically sit there and stab the throttle a few hundred times while watching your afr's.

Back pressure? Isn't that when some asian chick walks up your back to crack it?

They have fuel at the Churchill road store.

I would say yes. If you have the need for lots of food and have the space to store it then you will save a lot of money. I found that in order for it to be worthwhile, you need to have a list of items that you stick to and not impulse buy or you will you lose the savings. I buy; cereal, tinned tomatoes, beans and sketti as well as tuna, sauces that get used regularly like bbq, tomato and american mustard, plain flour in 12kg bags and sr in 6 x 1kg packs, sugar in 25 kg bags, toilet paper in 60 roll bags, pasta in various shapes, various spreads eg: peanut butter, jam, vegemite, nutella, coffee, tea and milo, pet food, fridge items such as cheese, marg and butter and occasionally juice and milk. Haha I also buy various batchelor noodles by the box. Toiletries are cheaper as well and meat and eggs can be cheaper. We also do a Coles delivery order every 2 weeks for bread, milk, nappies and other small items. When I'm walking around shopping I compare Coles prices with Costco items to make sure I'm getting the best deal. I check used by or best before dates to regulate how much of one item I should buy. We also buy meat in bulk from the local butcher for around $8.50/kg and store a side of beef, lamb and pork in our chest freezer. Chicken is cheap enough at Coles raw but Costco sells a roast chicken for $6. We get 2 and still have some left over. They have a little food court where you can get a chicken wrap and a smoothie for $7.50 along with other foods like pizza slices, hotdogs etc. This year alone we have saved at least a couple of thousand dollars by buying food at Costco rather than Coles.

Wmmfg? I bought a 6 pack of 1.25l v8 juice a 6 bucks and change from Costco the other day. The local shop wants 5 bucks for 1 bottle.

Bollocks. With the advancement of tuning hardware everything can be controlled via computer. Using a larger or modified rear housing to control traction and boost delivery is just stupid when the same outcome is available at the press of a button via several different tuning methods. It is merely a by product and an undesirable one at that to have a car take longer to spool otherwise we'd all have gtx55's on board. Anyway what exactly was the point of this thread?

Sorry gtg, kids are needing attention, wee wees in the middle of the night and all. I'm heading off too, being late and all. I'll be sure to come back with more input in a little while. I'm excited though!

I haven't seen the dates yet but I expect they'll be up soon. Regardless, sa has a lot to offer and we can make a fun few days of cruising windy and remote roads. It's been so long since I went cruising the hills for the sake of cruising.

Bloke with 30 years plus of Adelaide hills road history here. I've driven them all but not lately. Between us sa blokes, I'm sure we could make a few nice stops. Maybe it could be lined up with air drag days next year.

Ok @skidxr6t I don't know the ford pcm inside and out BUT I can tell you that in my past experience there is a map in some ecu's that observes how fast the throttle is pressed. It will add more fuel the faster it gets planted providing you tune it that way. Also there is a map or setting that will add timing similarly. Basically when you floor it quickly the car should be tuned to react quicker and less efficiently than when you just roll on the throttle.

5 likes now. I didn't even like it.

I'll just leave this here. F=M x A. Anything moving from slow to fast will have this equation as part of the reason it broke whether it's a rod bending or a tyre breaking traction. The best way I've found to control boost in my car is to make the missus drive.

I literally just bought bf1 deluxe and have 1% downloaded. Edit: Origin has a sale on right now.

That's on pc mate. Because the pc version is moddable there are dozens of tracks and cars ranging from buggy af and unplayable to nearly indistinguishable from an official AC release. Bathurst and Adelaide are both community made tracks. I don't race with car damage on usually. Because I play with the driver's pov, I haven't seen the damage from the outside. I'm actually curious to have a look now. Hehe I made a r34 gtr to have the equivalent of 1200 to 1500 hp at the wheels. Fun fun

The second Porsche dlc unlocked today.

Better yet, let's lay this to rest right now. It helps no one to talk sh*t and clutter up a diy tuning thread with this garbage.

Yeah buddy I was born yesterday. Who was I publicly scrutinizing? Farken no one. I commented on the tune that was brought up. I've dealt with all kinds and couldn't give 2 farks about weak threats on the internet or to my face. Take you're own advice and pull your head in.

Grey marks on the coil packs will indicate that there has been a current leakage. Also there could be swelling and cracking on the winding (top) part of the coil.

Not likely, as it happened suddenly. That would be a gradual occurrence that starts in the upper rpm band and slowly moves down as they go soft.

It does sound like a spark issue. My car did the same thing when I turned it up. If the plugs are 18 months old then they could be due for a swap depending on the distance you've traveled. I run a 0.68 gap myself. My approach would be to first make sure there are no overboost cuts happening, check every gap, not just one or two and then swap the plugs. If that doesn't rectify the issue, I'd look to coils. It's somewhere to start mate.

Here's the eboost manual. You want to start reading at the bottom of page 20 for boost by gear. It looks like it could work through the shifter when it is in performance mode. http://www.turbosmart.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/eBoost2-4.19-MAY-12.pdf

But anyways you must be close to popping by now?! I can see you've had some dramas with your health lately which sucks. Hopefully things smooth out a bit for you guys and you end up with everything intact re gall bladder etc.