Puffwagon

They're $799. Not worth it imo. Just the ingredients cost nearly the price of a carton and you actually get brewery made beer. It's pretty bloody easy to brew beer and it cost sweet fa compared to this. I can understand having a nice looking kegging system but brewing is basic.

Heh I saw a subaru the other day and I thought to myself, "That looks imprezzive"!

Haha yeah I knew lol I was just having a whinge. We also have our cot right next to the bed.

Ha it's all good although I gotta say their method of waking up in the morning is annoying. It usually involves lots of running and screaming and fighting over toys.

So if anyone didn't know new born babies come with a grace period. The grace period is from 2 weeks to a month where they just eat and sleep and don't cry. Our newborn has been awesome for the last month. Lately she has started to be a bit needy and as such keeps the missus and I up for hours every night. Ahhhh the joys of having kids. Anyone want to have a couple of them for a day or two?

+30 for being @-Stever-?

-1 point for missing crossover bolt.

Beef Rendang pie. Mmm Hmmm.

Pretty much.

Mine looks very similar.

That's my thoughts @-Stever-. I haven't tried it yet but I think I should do a gentle cruise up my tuning road to cool it off then pull over and do a run. I guess this won't add power to the car rather than help adjust the timing vs iat or boost vs iat map.

I've had success insulating pipes with old socks and electrical tape. I'm pretty sure there are better ways to lower the intake charge these days.

It's interesting that you mention heat soak. I had thought of that, due to the large amount of exposed metal pipe. After some logging the other day, I found that my iat's dropped massively during a 3rd gear pull from 50kph, as my (similar to op's) piping would have been hot from lack of cold air through the pipes. For a town car I can see that heat soak would be be an issue that needs to be addressed, primarily due to the lack of airflow. It does affect the way our engines operate, for those that aren't aware.

True dat, I should have looked a bit closer. Agreed they are 2.5 inch pipes. That thing should already choochoo like a mofo, if the compressor housing and wheel are stock. Maybe it has a split in one of the silicone pipe connectors. When I split my tb joiner the choochoo disappeared.

If you want lots of choochoo then you can block your recirc valve. I'm not keen on hacking up airboxes despite the power or noise gains. Not so much a problem for me but for the person on the receiving end.....

For general use, oil pressure and engine coolant temperature would be my pick. I've heard that Autometer has some of the best quality.

I've had the same wideband setup (Lc-1) for about 6 years now on various cars and currently 20 months on my Ford. The only issues I've had sensor wise was the O2 sensor dying when it got doused in e85 during a fuel related failure. This wasn't on the Ford though. My gauge cups melted last summer but when the car gets to nearly 80c you'd expect some things to melt. I bought some stuff from ebay and installed it myself. It did need a little filing to make it fit properly. I think the kit I bought was around the $200 mark and came with the dash infill, gauge cups and a boost and oil pressure gauges and sender. The boost gauge seems to work fine and I can't comment on the oil pressure sensor as I've been too lazy to wire it up as yet.

To add to the thread, there is a 3.4 stroker kit available for the rb motors that is only a few hundred cc shy of the 3.7 stroker available for the ford. Money and common sense aside, that's just a few days r&r with the build and tune in there too.

You will definitely need an afr gauge for road tuning. A boost gauge is helpful in this scenario too. Those are the only two I have installed. Aside from that nothing else is necessary. Just chuck in whatever you want to keep an eye on or use nothing at all.

I just cooked 2 pies; beef and mushroom and hungarian goulash. Two minutes in the microwave and then 5 minutes in the turbo oven.

Length has a much lesser effect on airflow than girth does, and is different when going in vs coming out, kinda like bangin a broad. While it is true that you want the shortest route possible, it is more important to choose the right diameter for your application. While there is a formula available to choose the right size pipe, I haven't thought about it in years and cbf googling right now. Something something airspeed something something between mach 0.3 and mach 0.4 or too much drag or something. To roughly summarize you want 2.5 inch pipes as short as possible for the majority of xr6 applications.

Yep we are mate. Next year will hold all sorts of fun times for us all. Howdi @k31th

Ok bros he has to remove all the parts from each car yeah? He has to put the stock parts in the blue car yeah? So all the parts are out on the floor of his shed. Just for sh*ts and giggles he can put the go fast parts in the red car for the cruise! Yeah who ever said I don't have good ideas?!

More work involved but greater reward. I'd take an f6 over a ba any day.