Puffwagon

I rented a newly built house for 18 months before I bought my current abode. Apparently the house and block owed the guy around $400k in Angle Park. The workmanship was not good enough for me. Cracked and uneven floor tiles, cracks in the ceiling plaster, cornices separating, paving like a freshly jumped on waterbed, failed water pump for toilet backup and sunken pavers under water tank, failed main aircon unit (pinched end wasn't soldered and leaked the gas out), streaks in the one thin coat of paint and a lack of insulation in certain areas that made the house a sweltering hell hole in summer despite the 7+kw aircon in the living/kitchen/dining area. I would never in a million years pay to get a house built. I'm pretty sure the lazy-entitled gene has passed onto too many people now and it seems that we pay good money for fark all or to get farked in the arse these days. I'll either buy an older house that has had time to expose it's flaws or do a @Frederick and get me some building tickets. Imo once you get the wiring fixed if you are serious about selling then sell it before all of the problems I just mentioned come up.

45 degrees @ 5pm. It was 46 half an hour ago. Good ole straya xmas.

Could do? If the entire face of the radiator was fully shrouded like an r33 gtst shroud then probably not. You can have all the fans in the world but without a functional shroud you're screwed. I just top mine up to the very top when started from cold and as soon as the level begins to rise I do the cap up. I then take it to operating temp and drive around the block, making sure to pull a skid or 2. The next day when it is stone cold I just check the level and top up if necessary. Fortunately the xr6 cooling setup is no vl commy setup and pretty much bleeds itself. Hey, your fans are pulling air through toward the engine and not pushing away right?

There were only 2 stock bf mk2 xr6t's for sale in sa when I was looking a couple of years ago. Dozens of modded ba's though lol. Mine was just under $12k and the other was nearly $14k.

It sounds like you just gave us the answer to your problem.

3 hours till the kids get up and it's xmas! Gotta love staying up late.

That is a valid point and should be considered when weighing up what to do. I made that judgment call last year. I've been in a situation where I lost 1 phase out of 3 phases in my consumer main. I lost power to 3 quarters of the house as the lights, fans, stove and power points were on 2 phases split between the front and back of the house with the hot water on a separate phase. I called sa power and they came out immediately despite it being nearly midnight. They said that they had to pull the fuses and not replace them until I had it fixed and signed off. I made sure the guys left the main feed fuses with me after they pulled them. They were happy to do that after I opened the breaker box and showed them exactly how I was going to fix it and confirmed with them that I would back them up that they had done their job by removing them. I replaced and rewired the whole box, added a bunch of breakers rather than 70 yo porcelain fuses and labelled everything. I left out the main feed fuse to the open circuit phase. I got an electrician to come out, check my work and sign it off a couple of days later. After all that, it is still a temporary measure until I rewire the whole house. I still wouldn't climb in my roof space without the main fuses pulled as all of my wiring is in metal conduit and possibly as old as the house which is 70 years. It's a judgment call that can only be made by Pix if he is 100% sure it is safe to proceed without qualified intervention. Having no power is a big ask especially at this time of year. So is burning down your house when you know you have melted wires exposed.

Hopefully it is just in that enclosure.

I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that there would be a stock fan arrangement on there acting in much the same way that a stock fan tune would.

This is not the main board obviously. There will be a main board with the majority of the house wired through that. If necessary it can be reported later but Jet wasn't kidding when he said Pixies power will be turned off. If you call the local power network to report this issue, such as sa power for example, the main fuses to the street will be pulled within the hour and not replaced until the problem is rectified. Don't do this unless you want no power as of tonight. This clearly is not a suitable solution at this stage. Call the builder or elec and explain the situation and give them a couple of days to come out and fix it. Just remember if you act like an angry carnt people will delay helping you no matter how right or justified you are. It's not the end of the world to go without aircon for a while. At least there is a pool to cool off in. If you're handy and know how not to die when playing with this stuff then you could open the box and fix it yourself, providing that it is a short piece of wire in the box that burnt rather than a wire coming from a phase in the main board. If you don't know what you're doing or unsure of yourself then don't touch it. I know it sucks to have things go wrong but now is the time to put yours and your families happiness first and enjoy your xmas day! Look on the bright side, (no pun intended) at least the house didn't catch on fire!

From what you say it seems like everything is up to task. The gurgling noises would be boiling coolant/water. My car warms up to operating temp in about 5 to 10 minutes and sits on about a third on the gauge. It never goes over half when idling with the ac on in the heat. It does seem odd that your car runs fine for half an hour then suddenly gets hot. At this stage I'm thinking that the fans are not kicking in. Do they come one when you turn on the ac?

Here are some things you would check. How you carry out the checks, interpret the results and how they correlate with each other is what you pay a mechanic for (or search the crap out of forums for days) if you can't sort it yourself. Check that the system is pressurising and holding pressure. Check that the radiator fins aren't bent and are unobstructed from debris. Check that the coolant is serviceable; ie new and not full of rust from the block. Check that the thermostat is actually opening at its rated temp. Check that the radiator cap is functional. Check that the radiator or any pipe work isn't blocked internally. Check that the water pump is doing it's job. "New motor"? Is that new secondhand that has grown rusty from sitting in someone's back yard. Newly rebuilt/reconditioned? Has it got the correct oil and been changed as per "new" engine requirements? You'll need a datalog or an accurate temp gauge to see how hot it is actually getting. Possibly look at changing your thermofan settings in the tune. Obviously from your sig and running boost on an na motor it has a custom tune. Is it set up properly to run in summer? There could be more to check but this will give you a start. There is only so much one can help over the internet. If all else fails drive it into the river, that should cool it off

I have a black car. I wash it and within 3 days of just sitting in the driveway, not even being driven, it's filthy again. The dirt kinda adds to the sleeper look.

I was just about to go to bed. I'll stay up for a bit lol. What you garner dribble about?

Do it for Dale karntz!

What have you got and why isn't it fixed up and shiny again? Farken farkers. Might be time to look at brewing or the like?! It adds up if you drink more than once a week.

Hahahaha....good!

It's about as funny as my 3 year old son walking into the kitchen this morning and announcing to my wife and I, "I just farted, smell that fart I did?", then walking out, leaving the kitchen repugnant. Thank you Thomas, I did smell your fart, thanks for sharing.

Ha and there I was trying to save a hundred dollars a couple of months ago. It was on sale before I did my bushes and also just after. At least I still have the tool though. Oh well ya get that.

That's crazy man. Must be all the lsd you have. Get it? ...lsd..halves...cos one wheel's not enough... Ok, attempted/possibly failed dad joke.

7kw would pump like a bitch in a garage. Just a tad bit of overkill?

For the cost of fitting aftermarket diff bushes you should look into the twin diff bush diff hat option. It is around $1500 drive in, drive out. If you plan to make a lot of power or drag race your car then it is definitely worth considering. Even if you own your car for the next 10 years, it certainly could be worth the cost of replacing the original design 2 or 3 times. http://www.independentmotorsports.com.au/ford-falcon-ba-bf-fg-and-territory-turbo-irs-diff~188

I have superpro polyelast bushes. They were just under $400 delivered. I haven't done much driving on them, about 500km, but so far I'm happy. I bought a diff bush tool for a tad under $500 delivered and fitted them myself. I guess you could buy the tool and shout a friend lunch or you can pay a shop the 6 hours recommended fitting time. (or in my case have the local mechanic turn the job down lol) http://superpro.com.au/find/superpro-polyelast-hybrid-bushing-kit-for-a-superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-ford-australia-falcon-ba-bf-sedan-2002-2007-/productnr-KIT210K/cid-999500234/vid-

I was driving my honda van a few days ago and there was a cop going 90 in the 100 zone. Because the van is a gutless pile of crap that sometimes refuses to engage vtec, I would have had to take a runup and get past him/her at 120 as it was uphill and there was a truck coming 600 metres away. I decided against that (the van is slow and I would have done the same if not police) and drove behind them where they promptly sped up to the limit.

This is the result of someone who takes pride in their work and wants 100% completion/satisfaction. You usually only get this if you do it yourself. Please explain your method/handiwork in detail, not for me but to "make Australia great again"! (And for everyone else reading this thread lol). P.s It looks like that housing smoked like a bitch when it got installed. Agreed. When a company supplies a product that, while may work as intended, clearly lack pride in presenting their work or providing (the last 5%) maximum performance.