Puffwagon

Rinsing out my wisdom tooth hole just now and a 2mm square by 1mm thick piece of sharp arsed tooth falls out. Maybe that's why it's been hurting like a bitch. @Frederick I met your hubby this afternoon. Seems like a top bloke.

My wife has a 2012 lancer. It goes good enough to keep up with traffic and is very stable at highway speeds. We had a vt commy at the time and the lancer was faster than that. Even with me driving (not that I flog it) it returns about 6.8L/100km with some suburb driving but mostly country. I've tried driving it hard and I never saw an average of more than 8.5L/100km but I spose constant city flogging would get it higher. We paid 12k for nearly 2 years ago and it only had 15 thousand km on it. Now it has around 50 thousand on it and it's only needed tires and regular maintenance.

Fark it

Alex with one post (when I first read it) is asking about a car on gumtree from Alex which is dodgy as fark doubly so. Wtf karntz Box stock T dot is on the money. P.s I'm going to put my car back together (all stock like...don't ask...) and go for my missus approved cruise your way soon bro. Wanna meet up for a big mac or a beer/soda?

@arronm I thought you might enjoy this.

He sent it to a message thread I deleted. I was unaware when I wrote that post. I guess you could drop and give me 20? Oh. I delete almost everything from my inbox for reasons. Send me a new one.

Lol all good fellas. Excuse me while I still suffer with half my jaw dentally drilled and codeined up. There is nothing there from you yet mate. It is nearly empty from other messages. @k31th?

I understand saving $5 a month on the electric bill but heat lamps? Aren't heat lamps supposed to heat up?

Heaps of it, you just gotta search for it Ok then....plugs first. Check em and stuff.

#readingfordays

Sounds like a underused or broken search function to me I pulled out my search function once, checked it from front to back, gave it a thorough inspection and it fixed everything.

I'm pretty sure you can have instant smoke with an auto too hombre.

@JETURBO I know you only just got your L's last week but how many cars have you seen at 400rwkw break shafts compared to not break shafts by rolling into it? Also didn't you retune a stock zf car a couple of months ago to over 500rwkw that didn't break, even at the drags? So far we can see that it broke one shaft attempting to launch with 400rwhp. Based on the above comment it has broken at least one shaft by rolling into it with 528rwhp or 390 odd rwkw. The other 2 breakages haven't been described yet but the phrase "kickdown" had been bandied about numerous times in this thread. Common sense is telling me that whilst this car may be running an inappropriate tune it is also being driven unreasonably hard. Maybe it's t400 time?

By all means help the bloke and send him a safe trans tune. His old one probably has 50's or something stupid in the pressure tables.

Which is it?

Detent innit?

Not directed at you Ralph, just furthering the train of thought... Also block to flywheel clearance, input spline engagement, spigot bush placement/length, ring gear engagement to starter (mentioned), clutch adjustment (mentioned), rear main seal to flywheel clearance (it looked pretty close in the picture), bolt hole depth after machining, bolt length. Basically everything that comes into contact or near to the flywheel should be measured and checked. Most of that should be fine but all should be checked. 1mm might not matter but 5 mm would likely be a different story. It has to be checked. Did I mention that stuff should be checked? Would you really want to use a spacer that produces possibly different expansion rates than the flywheel and crank and in turn changes bolt tension and stresses the bolts and dowells more than the already problematic setup? Adding another element that can slip and wear itself and other parts is far from ideal even if dowelled. Is manufacturing a billet custom hardened spacer (to allow for somewhat even thermal expansion of said spacer) worth the cost of just replacing the crank? Would anyone reading this be happy to leave their car at a shop and pay for or allow this kind of fix? Not me, no thanks. If I had to be dodgy I would just remove any runout then partially tig the bolts to the flywheel once they were torqued up but I'd prefer to do it right the first time....oh wait..... Who knows maybe it will all just stick this time with just being put together as its?!

20 my shiny metal ass. Something something do it right the first time. But hey each to their own.

Hell you might get lucky and it stays tight but I'm with arronm on this one. Do you really want to be pulling the gearbox out and the clutch off all the time?

I'm going to leave this here as it will clarify for lthwpn and also provide advice for anyone else reading it. The message Jet is trying to get across is that you should not be doing the automatic equivalent of a clutch dump. If you're partially loaded in third and then floor it to kick back into second at 70kph then that is the equivalent of a clutch dump. Joe meant that there is a difference between driving a car hard with sympathy and deliberately trying to break a car.

Drink beer instead?

Liked for shiny stuff. Now get better and pull a skid.

It looks like the end of your crank has heated up to 250 to 300 degrees C in places. There is a ring there. Make sure that the loctite you are using is appropriate. Keep in mind that there are many visable gaps between your flywheel and crank that fastening fluid could flow into, now that the crank face is damaged. There may be thermal effects that act upon excess leaking fluid that could cause uneven pressure between the mating faces and in turn loosen bolts again. Imho if you install the flywheel with oil on the threads, torque it up and it has no runout then you "might" be okay to pull it off, clean it up and fit it with loctite. To ensure minimal leakage in this case, I would pull the flywheel in with a few dry bolts to minimise the gap and then fit sparingly loctited bolts (to reduce leakage into pitting) alternately to removing non sealed bolts. Imho this is still half assing it and I'd prefer mating surfaces to be 100% flush, especially close to threads. If there is a gap it provides room for the bolt to flex. You might get lucky by slapping it together again but I wouldn't recommend it. Good luck mate and hopefully this post helps you out with whatever you decide to do.