Puffwagon

Ah hahaha. Is it hot there? It's still 34 degrees here after a high of 43. Tooooo hot.

So if you were a sailor you'd be called Seaman Gainz

Whatever floats ya boat.

I'm pretty sure that's a picture of you smoking a mushroom tip. Nek minute you'll be making all kinds of gains, all kindzzz.

I typed that on my phone. It's not conclusive but covers the general gist of load points. I'll pm you some links if you like. Just pm me what you want to know either specifically or generally and I'll find something relevant for you or straight out tell you (if I know the answer) if it's a quick answer.

He wanted to learn, that's why. Better to learn live tuning on a sh*t box than jump straight into flash tuning and blowing up your ford. Edit: I definitely agreed on doing stuff right the first time.

Here ya go ROB83R and anyone else who cares. A load point is a area on a map or maps that holds information regarding fuel and ignition values. For example an ignition load point will have 15 degrees btdc and the corresponding load point in the fuel map will hold a value such as lambda or a ve number that is translated into milliseconds. This is how long the injector will stay open for and roughly would be between 1.5 and 2 ms at idle. The load point selected in a map sensor based ecu is dictated by manifold air pressure. Every time the same air pressure is achieved you will get the same ignition or fuel values commanded. If there is an air pressure value that is exactly half way between 2 load points then it will interpolate the 2 points eg: a 15 degree load point next to a 20 degree load point will return a value of 17.5 degrees. This is a sliding scale and will vary from 15 to 20 degrees depending on which one it is closer to. Finally there are correction maps that ask for more or less fuel and or ignition depending on a multitude of variables. The most common are battery voltage, coolant temp and intake air temp. There are other types of load point setups such as using tps vs rpm for giant cams or itb's or a combination of that plus calculated air mass. For further reading I would suggest downloading an aftermarket ecu manual such as haltech and seeing what they have to say on the matter. One last point is like to make is that hptuners will be confusing as fark compared to a live tuning setup. Buy a cheap commy, get over pcmhacking.net and buy the stuff to live tune it. You could buy a decent registered car and the tuning stuff for less than $1500.

Good news man. It's amazing how much cheaper it is and money you save in equity by owning vs renting.

More power from cheaper fuel. What's not to like. It's a pity I'd use $20 worth of fuel to get some.

Nek minute everyone is googling frantically.

You mean retard the timing. When we say "more timing" we are actually talking about a negative number. Retarding is starting earlier and advancing is starting later.

Wadatah my damie

To add, You should probably ask Jet. After all he is one of the few guys in Australia who has bought a dyno for his own further learning. He also appears to have specialized in Ford tuning. Perhaps he has logged other available fuels and the data that comes with it?

Yes there is a chemical difference. I don't agree but show me data and I'll change my mind. If there is a temperature difference in the burn from various fuels despite the same burn rate then there will be an advantage. What I will say is that our motors are fairly identical and the main reason you will see large disparities in power output comes down to the dyno operator.

Spray what at both ends? I think I musta got confused cos my wife is yelling right now.

I've had a different experience tuning with 95 vs 98. Granted it was with a different engine but it had a very similar compression ratio (8.4:1 iirc), slightly higher dynamic compression (180 psi) and ran a gt35r, a 0.82 rear housing and a large external gate. 3 octane points was not insignificant and allowed for 20% more timing. If you see little to no gain using 98 over 95 then I suspect your car has been tuned for 95 or runs a super safe 98 tune that pulls timing regularly when run on less than 98. This is often the case when you pay for a tune. No sensible tuner wants a car at the ragged edge. Go look at jets tuning thread to see how he felt about taking a stock motor over 500rwkw despite his ability to control knock and fuel. Yes that example is timing vs mechanical but you get the drift. Baring faulty parts a misfire at idle is caused from either; running lean, a too small/insufficient plug gap, incorrect cam timing at idle or too much ignition timing at idle. Bad fuel will cause a misfire at idle too but that seems highly unlikely in your case. Oh I almost forgot, water out of suspension can create intermittent misfires. Fwiw I could run as lean as 15:1 at idle with about 7 degrees btdc but needed 13.7:1 to run 15-20 degrees btdc without misfiring in my other car. I tune my ford to the limits of 98 and would not consider using 95 unless 98 was not available. Sorry for the novel fellas but hey, it might come in handy for someone one day.

Haha no I didn't click it. I don't mind if it gets changed or not. 4 is as good a number as any.

Yeah I suppose if I used heaps of fuel I'd consider finding cheaper options. I currently use less than half a tank per week.

Sorry mate I know you said to gtfo but...my notifications are back down to 4 again. Not that I care terribly and not sure if this helps you at all but thought I better mention it.

But seriously even with a 15 c/L difference it cost less than $10 per tank. I check the price but still fill it regardless.

I'll pm you my bank details.

So...10 then?

Haha thanks mate. I was trying to give you a gentle ribbing but it didn't work. Back to the drawing board.