Puffwagon

This might have something to do with the dash lighting up aye?! There is oil dripping out from the coils and the coil cover gasket is rooted. A couple of the coils were nearly a cm off the plugs.

Fair dinkum though my cars rooted.

Yes it is. Inb4 fair dinkum.

Haha local guys aka me and boxy. I reckon a bbq at the park on Friday night might be better. I was thinking that you blokes would have been driving all day and probably want to chill out rather than drive to the park to book in then to the pub then back to the park after. I don't really mind though.

Happy hump day

That's the go. Do it right the first time and you'll only have to do it once. When do you think you'll have it finished?

Haha bushes are maintenance man. Have a real good read and then come back here and mention what parts you are thinking about. There are some guys on here, looking at you @JETURBO, who know this stuff inside and out and will be able to tell you exactly whether or not the parts will suit your purpose. You don't want to go overkill and you sure as hell don't want to buy things twice cos they aren't up to the task. I take it yours is the green car?

I take it the car was bought a while back and some of that cost is maintenance but I can see why you want to finish it off rather than buy something already done. So onto your question; when you say safely, there is safely to give it a squirt on the road on the weekend every now and then and there is safely where you are going to take it to the drags and circuit all the time and flog it mercilessly every chance you get. The first one can be done on a stock motor in good condition with the right bolt ons and some valve springs. The second one will need a built motor for any hint of reliability. Obviously the bolt ons will be similar eg; injectors, fuel pump/s, surge tank (you can get away with not having one for street use), exhaust, turbo mods, intercooler etc etc. All of this info regarding bolt ons can be found pretty easily with the search bar. Take a look through the 400rwkw section or even the 500rwkw section and see what people are using. Hey did you know your cradle is orange?

How are you thirty grand into a ba with barely any work done yet?

Well the plan tomorrow is to make sure the abs ring on the new axle and the sensor are playing nice. I'll remove the tailshaft and take it somewhere to get the bearing replaced. I'll be rearranging my shed so I can get the car in there. The floor is smooth and obviously I'll have protection from the weather. From there the subframe will come out maybe a day or 2 after so I can see wtf is going on with it. I'll be back in a day or 2 to complain about it some more.

Far out man. Is that the same dude that was doing that a couple of months ago? It has been one of those days for me too.

Fark it. The trans isn't leaking and the level is fine. The centre bearing on the tailshaft is farked and the rubber coupling to the gearbox is cracked. There is still a clunk coming from the rear subframe. Nothing is loose and I can't see anything moving that shouldn't be. They're is a fair amount of play between each wheel in the diff. I wonder if that's making the noise? Fark it anyway, I cbf'd with it anymore. Someone lend me a lighter.

Hopefully it wasn't run with no line! Obviously it was always going to run less boost with a line between the comp housing and actuator but it clearly wasn't enough. There's a few more factors at play as well such as wg flow, preload as mentioned and exhaust restriction. A big compressor isn't suited for the smaller wg holes and will struggle to run low boost up top. Just for sh*ts and giggles I drove my car on the 11.8 psi gate and it held 10 psi until about 4k then crept up to 15 or 16 up top. Anyways it was worth a shot I suppose. A couple of psi extra won't hurt but you can't have it leaning out due to injector dc. Unfortunately it is tune time or stock turbo time.

I swapped out my bent axle the other day and decided to go for a spin yesterday. I gave it a bootfull and nek minute the dash lights up, the speedo dies and I can smell burning trans fluid. I pulled over, switched it off and after a bit of cranking it started with a slight miss that cleared up after a few seconds. I drove away gently and the trans flaired between first and second and then into third as well. It came good after that so I just drove sedately until I got home. I guess I'll be under the car fixing the leak and topping up the trans today. Fark me I need a hoist, I'm getting to old for this sh*t.

Let us know how you get on. I'm hopeful that it'll work well enough to get you out of trouble until you sort out a better solution.

Yep I think we've covered it all. Now we just wait and see.

The ecu utilises a tmap sensor as well as a boost sensor that are separate so it will be fine. The solenoid is only used to get it on boost sooner and maintain the commanded boost with the softer stock spring. It is not a sensor. If you run it without the solenoid it will become slightly slower to come on boost. As the 5psi spring is very close to the stock boost map it won't detonate. It's not like you are running an extra 10 to 15 psi so the timing will be fine. What will happen with this turbo with it's larger compressor is it will run slightly leaner on boost. This should be fine as the stock tune is a bit rich anyway. Try it and see if it still hits the boost cut. If it does still then it's tuning time or stock turbo time. If it doesn't then it will be fine until you find a stock turbo or get it tuned. Ideally you would get the afr checked on the dyno. You'd only need what they call a power run to check power and afrs. This should cost around the $100 mark. Remember this is only a temporary measure and although it may not hit the boost cut it is less than ideal. Although it's been said before the car either needs tuning or the turbo needs replacing.

I'm in South Australia mate so I can't do much. I guess you just need to make those phone calls and keep your eye out for a turbo. I'll keep an eye out if anything comes up. http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=72_75&product_id=60 $1400 for a ball bearing bolt in stock replacement. Just a possibility. I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier. Bypass the boost solenoid for now. Run a vacuum pipe from the comp cover to the wg actuator. I just looked at a stock ba file. It actually has 1.94psi leeway for overboost. The stock file is calling for 4.91 psi boost up top with around 6 psi in the middle. With the 5 psi spring you might just be in luck?!

You know what man, a stock turbo and wastegate actuator will fix the problem. Obviously there are other more expensive fixes that make more power but I wouldn't want to recommend a several thousand dollar solution when a much cheaper one is available. Even tuning yourself will cost about $1300 to set up ($995 hptuners mpvi pro with wb controller and gauge $300) and you need to know how to do it which is a long road in itself. Ring around and see if someone will have a crack at just tuning the boost settings, you might get lucky. If you can find someone on the forum with hptuners they can tune your car with their dongle. It'll cost 2 credits which is $100 plus whatever they want for their time. Farken cars aye, carnts are never cheap even when you do all the work yourself!

Hmmm. So is the tune stock? When I say a quick fix I mean that it takes sweet fa to make the changes that I've described to fix a tune related overboost issue. Tell us what the dyno shop did and said to help clear this up as well as anything else you know at this stage. What exactly were you quoted 2k for cos it can't have been just a tune?

Lol 2k for a tune. Someone's bullsh*tting you mate. You only need a quick fix of the tune and a check of the afrs and boost level to get it sorted. It is cheaper to buy your own road tuning setup than to pay that price. There are a couple of quick and easy ways to fix the problem in the tune that would take less than 10 minutes. One is by tuning the desired boost so it commands more boost so it doesn't hit the cut and the other is by raising the overboost threshold so it has 5 psi overboost before it cuts out instead of 2.35 psi that a stock tune has. Either of these is a very quick way of fixing the issue BUT there is more to tuning than removing safety features or just turning up the boost. There could be other factors that prevent this turbo working correctly such as not being able to run low enough boost for the injectors or fuel pump as well as other parts not being up to the task. None of that can be fixed in the tune if the turbo won't turn down due to hardware issues. This info is all well and good if the tune is stock and it appears that it is but we won't know until it gets checked. Edit: My point is that is could well be a very quick fix (potential hardware issues aside) that shouldn't cost more than a few hundred dollars with a quick check on the dyno.

You would expect it to do that with the new spring as the wg duty cycle will be acting upon that rather than a stock spring. There is more boost commanded in the middle of the map and it drops off up top in a stock tune. That'd be why it half sorted it. The threads only 3 pages long man. Have a read. He has the 3584 kinugawa.

Who's to say there are any other problems?

No it shouldn't be. The symptoms point to hitting the overboost cut due to having an aftermarket turbo with a stiffer wg spring. As such checking the tune is the first thing to do. With the new info regarding the newly swapped spring it certainly points to the tune being stock. There are two options to fix that; replace the turbo with a stock unit or tune the car to suit the current turbo. There is enough info in the thread to show that.