Puffwagon

Haha the FG-X Lancer?

I haven't tried flicking it yet. Brb giving it a flicking Edit: Flicked over to e85 without the crazy boost number at 4k rpm. That looks much better.

If you scroll to the bottom of the page there are instructions on how to set up the calculator. In short you pick a turbine wheel size and a/r from the right hand side of the turbine map then adjust the turbine expansion ratio figures until all of the plot points are on that same line. Edit: The effect on turbine a/r can be found here. I chose the 1.45 rear housing in my example. This is the 1.05. This is the 0.83 and 0.91. Note in my first example that I had a typo in the afr at 7k rpm. It should be 12:1 not 2:1. Ninja edit: Play with the values and see what changes.

No worries Rab. Get it up ya

This will convert your barometer reading to atmospheric pressure. This is the a 4 litre plotted over the 9180 comp map with the bw matchbot. It can be adjusted based on the variables in the calculator. I've tried to keep it as close to 800 hp as possible. In this example a touch less boost is needed to get the 800hp but it is still up there. While a turbo or comp map calculator is close it will vary from real world testing cos reasons.

I didn't plot the barra on either compressor map so it is entirely possible that the initial pressure ratios were incorrectly assumed to be necessary. Pressure ratio is defined as absolute inlet pressure divided by absolute outlet pressure. The math is simple; gauge pressure plus atmospheric pressure divided by atmospheric pressure. Atmospheric pressure at my house is 14.65 psi according to my barometer. It actually varies a bit To calculate the boost needed to run a pressure ratio of 4 in the bw you calculate it like this; 4 multiplied by 14.65 then subtract 14.65 from that number. It's 43.95. When we talk about comp wheel size we commonly refer to the inducer. The bw compressor has a 67.7mm inducer vs the 76mm in the gtx. That is a significant difference. The gtx flows approx 110lbs/m at 109,000 rpm vs the bw needing approx 116,000 rpm to make 95lbs. I'll post up a link shortly that will help.

Probably best ay. Puts away meme folder :(

I'm not sure I'd like to deal with every hose, gasket and fitting popping off and generally sh*tting itself under the amount of boost the bw would have to make to match the garrett. I suppose it's not insurmountable. Lol would it make you feel better if I said the absolute air pressure at my house is 14.65psi @HI PSI

The air pressure at my house is 14.65 psi. You'll be running 28 psi on the gtx42r and 44 psi on the bw based off the comp maps and your desired pressure ratios and power requirements. I'm sure you already did the math though. Neither is good for a stock motor but you can keep it turned down until it's built. On paper the bw looks like a much better street turbo. One way to look at it is that you'll be frying your tyres on the street with either turbo so maybe the smaller one is better?

I wouldn't care either but the kids tablets won't charge at half an amp. The seller has already refunded me so I can't complain about getting 1 working cable for free.

I ordered them through an ebay seller. It's not urgent as I have a few working cables already but with the kids wrestling with their tablets etc we do use them up. I only paid $7.95 for 5 of them so I was probably lucky that one of them worked. I asked the seller to send me some working cables and they just this second replied that they will refund me. Happy days. I've got CableChick open in a tab now so I'll give them a try.

I was wondering what kind of riding lol. Now that you mention it I can remember you talking about horse riding a while back.

You went for a ride today?

Haha if only it worked that way

Far out man I ordered a 5 pack of usb to micro usb CHARGING cables last week. They finally turned up and only one of them can charge over 1 amp. The other 4 only show 400 to 500 mA. Hmmf

Does a dirty wet car count?

Man it's pissing down. Time to break out the buckets

You can see in the pic above that the only wrapped bit is just above the ex manifold. If the filter was right there then maybe consider wrapping it but otherwise, naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Why would ya? The oil inside the line is going to be a lot hotter than the air under the bonnet and the stock line was never wrapped.

Farken 9am doctors appointment, turns out the carnt doesn't even arrive until 9:30, doesn't bother coming out until 9:50, starts discussing my private details in the farken waiting room in front of other patients and staff then when I pull him up about it he tells me that I'm wasting his time. I said that I had been waiting for 50 minutes with my son and that he's already wasted my time and that I'd go elsewhere. As I leave he yells across the waiting room and out the door, "Don't waste my time ya farken idiot". Me being Mr Mature yell back from halfway across the carpark, "Ya farken wanker". Fark the *beep* I hope he trips in the rain and cops a three corner jack to the ballsack and eyeball at the same time.

But...but...but... but Nizpro.

Do you even intercooler bro?

Haha fark ya. Probably to save money.

If you're just going to cut and paste sh*t from the internet you may as well just spit links at us.

You're missing the part in relation to that diagram that shows tube and fin coolers flow better and have quicker heat transfer. A tune and fin cooler can make more power and cool down quicker within a exact dimension comparison and can do it again within a shorter time frame when heat soaked than a bar and plate cooler will. Bar and plate has always been considered inferior for these reasons. Fwiw I prefer bar and plate cos I'll just get (a farken huge one) the biggest one I can utilize. A large bar and plate cooler can absorb the heat and flow well due to it's size. An intercooler has a much larger effect on intake temps than piping does but at low/off boost driving the piping will get heat soaked while the cooler stays cool due to airflow. This piping cools down pretty quickly when on boost. A custom water to air setup would work better than either on the turbo fords imo but most folks aren't going the custom route with various mods. It's bolt on for days which in a way is good because there are proven results available for comparison. Water/meth injection would solve a lot of issues too but that's getting off topic.