Puffwagon

Oh it isn't set up, is still under my verandah waiting for a suitable shed. I just know how to work efficiently and sometimes work long hours to get sh*t done.

Well I already owned a shed and a hoist... I'll get some pics shortly, maybe on the weekend.

One of those

It's not a vehicle of any sort

Funds have been transferred, will arrange pickup shortly. Hmmmm I wonder what it could be?

Another day, 1 step closer

Any guesses?

Getting close now

Ok that was a long enough break, sh*ts gonna get real crazy real soon lol. I'll update when it does. Thank @k31th for talking some sense into me to come back eventually, cos I was a bit cranky there for a minute lol.

Car is running well, makes around 330awkw after a wind or two of the boost controller. Having a built trans in it transforms the car, it chirps second when you give it the beans. It's quite enjoyable at this power level, plenty fast for the street and fark knows what I was thinking building a car with double the power?! Apart from that nothing new. I'm gonna take a break from posting for a while, I've got other things that are taking up a large portion of my time and I need to focus on those areas. I'll be back when I'm ready to resume posting.

Yay Wednesday

Haha yerp there's a couple of good tips right there. Balancer off, timing cover toward battery, engine oil in the crane so it actually lifts and undo the bonnet supports so the crane doesn't get stuck on your turbo scoop. Lift engine off the mounts then remove the mounts from the block is another tip. Plenty of things you can do to make it go easy.

New bosch pump for intank applications Ye olde pumpe

The zf doesn't slip in gear when it's operating properly, all the relevant clutch packs are locked and the converter is locked. It may as well be a manual trans for that comparison.

ZF has 14% loss, you can measure converter slip via road speed, rpm and gear ratio. Most converters will have no slip cos the stock tune keeps them locked. In this case 1000hp atw will be 1140 at the crank.

Yay Tuesday

PCMTec just do the software, they don't provide tuning services. They have much shorter flash times than HP Tuners, it can be as quick as 10 seconds sometimes. If you are already able to drive the car, just drive it to the tuner and get them to sort it.

Yay Monday I think my mixer shaft hath sh*te itself. It'll swap from the floor to the windscreen but nothing from the other vents. Farken bastard

That bolt is for a speed sensor and has a different thread than the nipple will have. That thread you can see inside the cover is for the backing plate to cover retainer. Just whack a rag in the compressor cover, drill and tap a thread then yank the rag out along with the swarf. Easy peasy, take ya 5 minutes. That power figure is what the turbo and fuel system etc will support, you will definitely need some valve springs to get there. It's too much for a stock engine imo but there's a few that have made that much. I would just send it to 20psi and see where it lands. It'll be over 400 on 98 and be closer to 500 on E85.

It's fine with 2 wg, do what you gotta do, no judgment here. The one with the lower boost spring will do the boost control and the other one will open if you reach it's spring pressure. The way you set the preload is good enough, you might want to check that it all worked out the way you thought it did. For whatever reason the flap might be open a bit and causing it to be lazy. You might have the wrong spring in the external gate, something to consider. The boost reference wont affect how long it takes to come on boost, you want short lines to the solenoid for more responsive control. This is purely how quick the controller can change the boost, nothing to do with how quick the turbo comes on boost. Obviously you can bypass the solenoid for diagnosis. All them bits on a hub dyno with E85 should see you making 600rwkw on about 28psi give or take. I would keep a stock engine under that somewhere, up to you how crazy you want to go and how gentle your tuner feeds in the power.

So you've got 2 wastegates right now? That's fine but the internal one probably needs more preload if it's doing nothing until 5000. That wastegate might be open at the moment. Another thing to check is the fire ring is installed on the external gate. It's an extra bit that goes in between the wg and the wg dump tube. Finally you will have to install a boost reference into the turbo comp housing or the intercooler piping. You cant run a line to the intake and expect it to have decent boost control. Control is the key word, if you aren't running electronic control it'll be fine. You should have some positive boost by 2200 or so and it should be lit up by 3500 give or take. Temp and exhaust design has a massive effect on spool time so these are only rough numbers.

Yay whatever day it is

I read this and now I need toasted sangas....

Yes they are

French fries mofo