Puffwagon

Glad you got it sorted without too much drama. If it does start missing again over the next few months, give it a set of new genuine coils and it should be fine again for many years.

Yerp

@bossmang I see you lurking, who you fittin to ban this time

It would pick up boost with a 4 inch dump pipe, but I suspect yours might be needing more gate spring, providing the boost control is actually delivering 100% wgdc as you previously mentioned. You'll want 12psi of spring, give or take, to make 20psi on your setup. I've put over 20psi with a stock territory exhaust (they are mostly 3 inch) so I don't think yours is restricting it in that sense.

Yeah I didn't want to be the bearer of bad news etc but Tom is right, it will get laggier with more boost cos the boost will still be rising, so full boost will be later, and cams will make it laggier again. It's fine though cos it's better for the engine, better for grip on the road and better fuel economy cos it will be using less boost for gentle driving. Plus you can always get hectic and send it to 600+kw if you are game to do that on a sbe lol

Sounds like water got into the spark plug holes and is shorting out a coil. If this is what has happened, pull the coil cover, remove coils, blow water out with compressed air.

It's staying the same so 2.7m. I'll build the fark off shed from hell after I do 50 or so tunes lol

I mean I do need some more shelves but I'll just go by myself on Tuesday. This week is shed week so I need to pull out the finger and make it happen.

It's the wife's birthday tomorrow, I talked her into going to Paramount Browns and Bunnings lol. When we go out for lunch instead of shed shopping she should be pleasantly surprised. Set the bar low

Make sure you run a fat bead along the recessed part of the sump. If you only put it on the flat part it will leak.

It was more the reaction of the other sufferers that impressed me 🤣

Just did the best fart ever

Hows this for some farkery? The car was trying to rev at idle and drive itself in gear and while I could get it mostly sorted by some quick changes to the idle airflow, there was no reason for those changes to be needed. First thought was an intake leak but I know there wasn't one, so where else could it be getting air from? I measured the throttle body values in Forscan with another throttle body I have, and the one on the car was open half a degree more at idle. Not much ay, but I adjusted it back down to 7.5 degrees from 7.94 degrees and it fixed it. Lol less than half a degree is enough to send your throttle body out of whack and get an ETC light.

I run a bead in the sump where the seal goes and I run a bead on top of the seal. There is basically an unbroken bead around the whole sump. I also put a smear under the rear main cap and around the rear main seal. When I do the sump I let it dry for a couple of days before adding oil and running it. They will leak if you let them so I make sure I cover all bases.

If you have all the stock stuff you'll be sorted. As far as the whole knock sensor thing, I don't know if the ba pcm is missing the hardware internally for the second sensor or if it's just a tune thing. I think you should be fine with it the way you described, I guess you'll find out eventually.

BA has one knock sensor, BF has 2. If you use a bf pcm you need the second sensor, if you use a ba pcm you only need one. If you're putting a turbo engine into a na car, you'll obviously be using some type of intercooler and exhaust to suit the turbo. You'll also need some type of intake for the turbo. You may need an upgraded fuel pump depending on the condition of the stock one. There's oil and water lines for the turbo, there is likely plenty more things to list, but you can get to reading to see what you have and what you need. Depending on what you use, you may or may not need a tune.

I would splice it in if I was doing it. If I wanted to save money I would swap looms. I don't see why you couldn't sign up with them, have a look hpacademy

It'll spool quicker, that's usually a good thing. It's not the end of the world if you don't do it. Yeah look there's a lot to learn with cars etc, all I can say is keep reading and perhaps try a tuning course from HPA, if you want to learn the basics.

Funny you should ask... The tune was giving me the sh*ts so I reverted it to stock and just added the necessary things, such as injector data etc. After a bit of messing around I've got it to 323awkw at 15.7psi with stock timing, so there is probably another 20kw on the table just with timing. I'll leave it as is for now cos it has 13% ethanol in the tank, and that makes a surprising difference to how much timing you can run. I've got the 4 port working again in closed loop and it is controlling the boost like it should be. I'll start winding it up shortly, just gotta do the fuel pump pot swap and it'll be sorted.

Have a read of this https://forum.pcmtec.com/topic/561-howto-full-independent-vct-cam-control-in-ba-6-cyl/

No you don't have to swap any of that, just relink it with forscan

That depends on you mate, some can do it quickly and some have to work it out as they go. Some have a high degree of mechanical skill and some don't. How long is a piece of string? You have the stuff in front of you, go and have a look. You can buy a boost control harness to splice into the 2 plug loom that will make it a 3 plug loom. Maybe this is more up your alley https://baysideautomotivewiring.com.au/products/barra-factory-boost-control-loom-ba-bf

Silicone the fark out of it inside and out. Ain't nobody got time for sump leaks.

The current housing is bigger than a stock housing by a fair margin. You can max out a gen2 gtx3582r with a factory T3 housing, I've gone slightly bigger, explain why I should go bigger again. I posted a picture of the housings side by side, go back and have a look.