Puffwagon

PCMTec just do the software, they don't provide tuning services. They have much shorter flash times than HP Tuners, it can be as quick as 10 seconds sometimes. If you are already able to drive the car, just drive it to the tuner and get them to sort it.

Yay Monday I think my mixer shaft hath sh*te itself. It'll swap from the floor to the windscreen but nothing from the other vents. Farken bastard

That bolt is for a speed sensor and has a different thread than the nipple will have. That thread you can see inside the cover is for the backing plate to cover retainer. Just whack a rag in the compressor cover, drill and tap a thread then yank the rag out along with the swarf. Easy peasy, take ya 5 minutes. That power figure is what the turbo and fuel system etc will support, you will definitely need some valve springs to get there. It's too much for a stock engine imo but there's a few that have made that much. I would just send it to 20psi and see where it lands. It'll be over 400 on 98 and be closer to 500 on E85.

It's fine with 2 wg, do what you gotta do, no judgment here. The one with the lower boost spring will do the boost control and the other one will open if you reach it's spring pressure. The way you set the preload is good enough, you might want to check that it all worked out the way you thought it did. For whatever reason the flap might be open a bit and causing it to be lazy. You might have the wrong spring in the external gate, something to consider. The boost reference wont affect how long it takes to come on boost, you want short lines to the solenoid for more responsive control. This is purely how quick the controller can change the boost, nothing to do with how quick the turbo comes on boost. Obviously you can bypass the solenoid for diagnosis. All them bits on a hub dyno with E85 should see you making 600rwkw on about 28psi give or take. I would keep a stock engine under that somewhere, up to you how crazy you want to go and how gentle your tuner feeds in the power.

So you've got 2 wastegates right now? That's fine but the internal one probably needs more preload if it's doing nothing until 5000. That wastegate might be open at the moment. Another thing to check is the fire ring is installed on the external gate. It's an extra bit that goes in between the wg and the wg dump tube. Finally you will have to install a boost reference into the turbo comp housing or the intercooler piping. You cant run a line to the intake and expect it to have decent boost control. Control is the key word, if you aren't running electronic control it'll be fine. You should have some positive boost by 2200 or so and it should be lit up by 3500 give or take. Temp and exhaust design has a massive effect on spool time so these are only rough numbers.

Yay whatever day it is

I read this and now I need toasted sangas....

Yes they are

French fries mofo

Doot doot

I can give you some tips if you want. Obvious stuff is obvious but some things will save a lot of time.

There's no meaningful difference between pulling an engine from a falcon or a territory and awd doesn't affect anything.

Yay Wednesday

Let us know what happens with new coils.

The PCM can cut cylinders for reasons, there is a DMR logging parameter that shows how many cylinders are active. AFAIK it will cut half of the cylinders via injector cut for various FMEM reasons ie: overboost, etc. There is that side of things. Onto losing power at the injector, they are 12V live all the time and the PCM pulls them to ground. First check for pin connection, it is common to have issues there. Either the pin will back out of the plug or it will open up inside the plug and cause issues. Pigtail connectors for aftermarket injectors are notorious for this. If there is an intermittent fault with the injector 12V, bypassing it with a direct battery feed will show results. Literally run a wire from the battery positive to the injectors in question and that will rule that out. Other things I've seen, the coil cover fasteners can pick up the coil or VCT loom under the coil cover and can earth it out through the rocker cover. I can see you've checked some of this, it can pay to double check things, especially if you've been rushed. I haven't opened up a PCM and can't say what will fail and at what age, however I have seen a few dry solder issues with white goods that are easily fixed. This would be the last place I checked, unless of course you have access to another PCM that will run the car. Hopefully there's something there for you.

Yay Tuesday

Yay Monday

There would only be one outcome to me showing up and it would end up with both of us in legal trouble that would cost a lot more than $200. Pay the money and find a new shop to do your work going forward.

Check your oil level and top it off as needed.

They should have done it to start with. You're in Adelaide lol, would you like me to show up with you to get results?! #angrybastard

Nah it's pretty normal when you want all the flow. It's reserved for high hp and high temp times. I keep it on the shelf for just those times lol

Yay Monday I put a stock thermostat in my car yesterday, it had a chopped one in it before. Chopped is fine for summer but not for cooler days, as the engine never warms up properly. Now it warms up very quickly and is stable, as it should be

That's right, seems reasonable lol

Yay Sunday Men have manners, women have?

One good one is ok, it might take a few months to find something you really like.