Puffwagon

Hows this for some farkery? The car was trying to rev at idle and drive itself in gear and while I could get it mostly sorted by some quick changes to the idle airflow, there was no reason for those changes to be needed. First thought was an intake leak but I know there wasn't one, so where else could it be getting air from? I measured the throttle body values in Forscan with another throttle body I have, and the one on the car was open half a degree more at idle. Not much ay, but I adjusted it back down to 7.5 degrees from 7.94 degrees and it fixed it. Lol less than half a degree is enough to send your throttle body out of whack and get an ETC light.

I run a bead in the sump where the seal goes and I run a bead on top of the seal. There is basically an unbroken bead around the whole sump. I also put a smear under the rear main cap and around the rear main seal. When I do the sump I let it dry for a couple of days before adding oil and running it. They will leak if you let them so I make sure I cover all bases.

If you have all the stock stuff you'll be sorted. As far as the whole knock sensor thing, I don't know if the ba pcm is missing the hardware internally for the second sensor or if it's just a tune thing. I think you should be fine with it the way you described, I guess you'll find out eventually.

BA has one knock sensor, BF has 2. If you use a bf pcm you need the second sensor, if you use a ba pcm you only need one. If you're putting a turbo engine into a na car, you'll obviously be using some type of intercooler and exhaust to suit the turbo. You'll also need some type of intake for the turbo. You may need an upgraded fuel pump depending on the condition of the stock one. There's oil and water lines for the turbo, there is likely plenty more things to list, but you can get to reading to see what you have and what you need. Depending on what you use, you may or may not need a tune.

I would splice it in if I was doing it. If I wanted to save money I would swap looms. I don't see why you couldn't sign up with them, have a look hpacademy

It'll spool quicker, that's usually a good thing. It's not the end of the world if you don't do it. Yeah look there's a lot to learn with cars etc, all I can say is keep reading and perhaps try a tuning course from HPA, if you want to learn the basics.

Funny you should ask... The tune was giving me the sh*ts so I reverted it to stock and just added the necessary things, such as injector data etc. After a bit of messing around I've got it to 323awkw at 15.7psi with stock timing, so there is probably another 20kw on the table just with timing. I'll leave it as is for now cos it has 13% ethanol in the tank, and that makes a surprising difference to how much timing you can run. I've got the 4 port working again in closed loop and it is controlling the boost like it should be. I'll start winding it up shortly, just gotta do the fuel pump pot swap and it'll be sorted.

Have a read of this https://forum.pcmtec.com/topic/561-howto-full-independent-vct-cam-control-in-ba-6-cyl/

No you don't have to swap any of that, just relink it with forscan

That depends on you mate, some can do it quickly and some have to work it out as they go. Some have a high degree of mechanical skill and some don't. How long is a piece of string? You have the stuff in front of you, go and have a look. You can buy a boost control harness to splice into the 2 plug loom that will make it a 3 plug loom. Maybe this is more up your alley https://baysideautomotivewiring.com.au/products/barra-factory-boost-control-loom-ba-bf

Silicone the fark out of it inside and out. Ain't nobody got time for sump leaks.

The current housing is bigger than a stock housing by a fair margin. You can max out a gen2 gtx3582r with a factory T3 housing, I've gone slightly bigger, explain why I should go bigger again. I posted a picture of the housings side by side, go back and have a look.

Ok another small update, I had to change the tune for the 4 bar boost sensor, as it still had stock values. I put it into open loop boost control for now, cos it has a 4 port boost control solenoid and it was making too much boost in closed loop. Fortunately I had anticipated this and updated the ignition map to account for it before driving. So for now it is running on gate pressure which is 12psi, it creeps up to 12.7psi up top which is fine. It comes on boost as quick as an FG turbo, miles quicker than it did before and obviously outflows the stock setup considerably on the hot side. Also despite several recharges, the battery is farked. I'll replace the battery tomorrow and do something with the boost control when I get a chance. I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes with 20+ psi up it's guts, should be pretty decent

Yes you can use the turbo pcm, in which case you don't need to worry about the second knock sensor. Only bf onwards have 2 knock sensors. You will be better off using the 3 plug harness for the turbo pcm, if it is available to you. You can splice the boost control plug into a na harness if necessary. There is nothing that won't plug in, no matter which way you decide to go. You will need to link the turbo pcm to the car, and possibly the trans if it has a zf. This can easily be done with Forscan, you can get a free trial of the extended licence to do this. I'll talk you through it when it's time. Alternatively you can use the na pcm and just use a boost tee or electronic boost controller from GFB or Turbosmart etc. After this and before you license the pcm for tuning, you will want to choose a suitable strategy for fully independent cam control, as the ba turbo pcms don't have that, unless it is a BA f6 pcm.

Based on the initial post it is hitting the boost cut. Verify this by logging and adjust the tune to fix it.

Ok it's all back together and I've gone for a drive. Something is up with the tune cos there's a couple of issues. I'll sort it out and update when it's all good.

You only asked about the engine, not the pcm. What are you actually wanting to do, if not just swap the engine per your original post?

The cars are nearly identical, there is no point swapping any wiring. Make sure you put that extra knock sensor on though or it won't run properly under load.

Install another knock sensor at the rear of the engine to suit the 07 loom and tune, and that's about it. Barra engines are very interchangeable and most of the time there is only knock sensor stuff, vct tuning, minor ignition and fueling adjustments and oil pressure switch tuning etc. It's the manifolds that create installation headaches as they don't line up between various models.

Make him a thread @k31th

Not a massive amount done today, exhaust fitted, dump connector made, hotside fully assembled, check wg spring @12psi, ran the oil line to the turbo to give it a quick fire up and after reverting a few throttle settings it starts and idles now. Maybe tomorrow will see it fully assembled and on the road.

https://www.independentmotorsports.com.au/ford-falcon-ba-bf-fg-and-territory-turbo-irs-diff

I wanna just enjoy playing it without having to become a Jedi Tetris master to do so. Perhaps I should have started on the easy setting first.

It's actually pretty easy, not much different than the game boy lol. I was doing so well then the mofo started going flat out, so it took me dozens of attempts to get through a level.