Puffwagon

Yeah man happy to help and always curious for solutions. Keep us updated.

I would ask the same question on the PCMTec forum. I know that you are running a haltech but the other stuff is fairly relevant to previous conversations over there. Perhaps lead with the questions directly related to the traction control, abs module and editing of it etc. There are some very knowledgeable guys on there and they generally go to fair lengths to help people.

Fixed the boost leak by welding a pipe onto the outlet of the turbo. Turned it back up to 24psi and it loved it. Farken thing hits boost like a mofo now, like a light switch lol. It also tolerates 12 degrees of timing at that boost level which is unheard of on 98, so that rear housing must be night and day better than the stock housing. Hmmm, I wonder what would happen if I pulled some timing for safety and asked it for 30psi? Coming to you in a future episode of Puffwagon's Territory Adventures

First up I haven't looked into this so I'm just spitballing, but based on your post I would be looking into editing the as-built abs data. I know there is stuff in the stock pcm for editing the traction control parameters so there must be some integration with the abs module in this regard. Is there something in the haltech that can adjust the factory traction control? I don't have a haltech but I'll be sure to use this post to convince the minister of war and finance to organise a purchase lol.

Yerp, usually it says choo on the left side but last night it said choo on the right side too.

Looks like I jumped the gun, the springs are rated for 24psi and I thought they were done. Turned out I had blown a hole in a silicone coupler. Oh well, someone has to post the downs with the ups

Lemme just run an extension cord to your house for some internet cos mine is still off

Internet is out today, got bored, turned the car up. It was running 17psi so I sent it to 20psi and it was all good. Sent it to 24 and despite closing the gate it only made 22psi up top. It has reached the limit of the valve springs, it literally hit an imaginary wall at 5000rpm. Oh well, I'll turn it back down to 20psi and look into putting some hectic springs and retainers in it. At this rate I may as well chuck my hectic cams in it too, cos it's never fast enough apparently

I was wondering if you'd bought a house yet

Cams just move the power band up a bit, if they aren't hectic it'll only be a couple hundred rpm. You'll see more variation than that from hot to cold weather.

Glad you got it sorted without too much drama. If it does start missing again over the next few months, give it a set of new genuine coils and it should be fine again for many years.

Yerp

@bossmang I see you lurking, who you fittin to ban this time

It would pick up boost with a 4 inch dump pipe, but I suspect yours might be needing more gate spring, providing the boost control is actually delivering 100% wgdc as you previously mentioned. You'll want 12psi of spring, give or take, to make 20psi on your setup. I've put over 20psi with a stock territory exhaust (they are mostly 3 inch) so I don't think yours is restricting it in that sense.

Yeah I didn't want to be the bearer of bad news etc but Tom is right, it will get laggier with more boost cos the boost will still be rising, so full boost will be later, and cams will make it laggier again. It's fine though cos it's better for the engine, better for grip on the road and better fuel economy cos it will be using less boost for gentle driving. Plus you can always get hectic and send it to 600+kw if you are game to do that on a sbe lol

Sounds like water got into the spark plug holes and is shorting out a coil. If this is what has happened, pull the coil cover, remove coils, blow water out with compressed air.

It's staying the same so 2.7m. I'll build the fark off shed from hell after I do 50 or so tunes lol

I mean I do need some more shelves but I'll just go by myself on Tuesday. This week is shed week so I need to pull out the finger and make it happen.

It's the wife's birthday tomorrow, I talked her into going to Paramount Browns and Bunnings lol. When we go out for lunch instead of shed shopping she should be pleasantly surprised. Set the bar low

Make sure you run a fat bead along the recessed part of the sump. If you only put it on the flat part it will leak.

It was more the reaction of the other sufferers that impressed me 🤣

Just did the best fart ever

Hows this for some farkery? The car was trying to rev at idle and drive itself in gear and while I could get it mostly sorted by some quick changes to the idle airflow, there was no reason for those changes to be needed. First thought was an intake leak but I know there wasn't one, so where else could it be getting air from? I measured the throttle body values in Forscan with another throttle body I have, and the one on the car was open half a degree more at idle. Not much ay, but I adjusted it back down to 7.5 degrees from 7.94 degrees and it fixed it. Lol less than half a degree is enough to send your throttle body out of whack and get an ETC light.

I run a bead in the sump where the seal goes and I run a bead on top of the seal. There is basically an unbroken bead around the whole sump. I also put a smear under the rear main cap and around the rear main seal. When I do the sump I let it dry for a couple of days before adding oil and running it. They will leak if you let them so I make sure I cover all bases.