Puffwagon

The trans might need some tuning. Talk to your local barra specialist and get them to set it up for drag racing. Tell them how much you want to stall it up so they can adjust it accordingly. For reference, at one point my territory did a 12.29 at 110mph with a 1.85 60ft and a 11.57 at 120mph with a 1.94 60ft. Good result there though mate, 12.2 is pretty quick, just gotta get it dialled and you'll be in the 11s in no time! Edit: RVO can get you a solid trans and converter package that comes tuned, without breaking the bank.

Installed 2 more jets into the intake this morning and went for a drive. After adjusting the fuel a bit I got a fairly decent result, it feels faster, the intake temp is staying the same or getting colder through the pull, so it must be doing something. I think my cam phasers are a bit worn out as they are the original 365000km old ones and there is a bit of cam error happening. I suppose that will be the next thing I'll be swapping. I was gonna dyno it on Saturday but I have a service to do, so maybe I'll have to wait another week.

My wastegate line split today and made 32psi in the mid. Lucky I know a thing or two about tuning and there was ample protection there to save it. I reckon some dash 4 fittings are in order for the wastegate and Mac valve, this should prevent any further issue like this arising. On a side note, I think I'm going to add more water meth jets to the intake, cos the warmer weather is showing enough of a tune change to warrant further cooling. Also did a trans service today, the trans fan stopped working yesterday while I was towing the boat and the car went into limp mode for a hot trans. I sorted out the fan wiring, gave it a fresh batch of hectic trans oil and a fresh filter, iirc the filter comes from a ranger. Should give the old girl a wash, it's probably been 2 years since it had one

Yay Wednesday

My car did this once, just died in traffic, then it half came back to life with the dimly pulsing dash, then it started again and the issue never happened again. I know there was a wire that had broken in the loom under the passenger side dash, as the car would not manually up-shift. Whether this contributed to the issue or not, I can't say. You'll need an auto elec to come out and sort it for you.

Stock overboost setting is 2.2psi, could just be doing that and going brrr

Not with that guess

The wife guessed 565awkw, I think that's a bit high though lol

Closest to the pin Yay Sunday

I like either, but a single bar won't do, a large multi packet will be a better prize

Ok there will be a settlement for the winner. What shall it be?

My guess is 530awkw

Went and retuned a car today, on an actual dyno, not my dyno though. Made 300rwkw at 15.5psi, so a good result. Also my car is frigging animal, I'll put it on the dyno soon just to see how accurate my arse dyno is

I currently drive a 66mm turbo with stock cams and a high stall, it's on so early I would happily go up a size or two with the turbo.

Cheers mate, it goes pretty hard. There's no fluid level sensor in the trans, just the temp. In my experience, which includes a lot of actual workshop experience, you need to top them up when they're cold. I know the manuals say different, but I do what I know works.

360 to 370rwkw is realistic for a roller dyno. If I ever get mine setup I will fit that turbo (I have one on the shelf) and update when it happens lol

Furken yay Friday

Yes that's the thread. The amount of dyno graphs in that thread with boost levels and turbo specs is invaluable to the community, it should be made public.

There is a thread in the bowels that is now only accessible by members, perhaps it should be available to the general public but closed to replies? It has the answers being asked here. @k31th

I went to ebay and typed in Falcon caliper kit and this was one of many listings. Use a pair of multi grips to remove the piston. That bit on the sump is from when the sump was cast in the foundry. If you are adamant that it is leaking from there then you can either get it welded, chuck some JB weld or fuel tank putty etc over it.

This is not how you check the level. It has to be dead cold and then you check it, you are probably 600mL to 1L low on fluid still. Do this before you pull the trans apart.

My wg pipe is 2.5 inch/63mm, so it might be a bit tighter than yours. I'd already hammered the fark out of the dump years ago to get clearance. I have a 3 piece dump, one small bit from the turbo (3 inch) to the 4 inch top part (90 degree), then there is a second lower part that has the wg tube receiver (also 90), then the cat goes onto that, then intermediate muffler section, then up section, then the over the cradle section, then rear section with resonator. It's all vbands and can be difficult to line up perfectly the first or even third try. Just gotta put it together and adjust it as needed. Nothing is banging or rubbing now so we'll see how long that lasts.

Well it was today. My dump pipe goes down one side of the steering column and the wg dump tube goes down the other. Because it is tightly packaged and if you don't line sh*t up perfectly, the dump or the wg pipe will touch the steering column. Because I was in there yesterday frigging around with it all, the wg tube was touching the steering column. I pulled the wg tube off today, gave it a squish in the press and put it back in, problem solvered.