Puffwagon

It's fine to drive cos it has a high stall converter, you just gotta use the right gear if you want to send it. If you just roll into the throttle it will start going nuts at about 4500rpm to 5000rpm. Full boost varies depending on how much boost you're making and here's some numbers to give you an idea. It was only at 26% wastegate duty so I can probably stand it up a bit quicker through the mid range. With 100% it would probably make 40psi at 5000rpm. I'll leave it though, it's already plenty quick. 3.2psi@ 2485rpm 5psi @ 3177rpm 10psi @ 3914rpm 15psi @ 4306rpm 20psi @ 4597rpm 25psi @ 4864rpm 30psi @ 5188rpm 35psi @ 5455rpm 40psi @ 6035rpm

Thanks Keith, I appreciate that. I'll only keep it turned up for roll racing, after that I'll put it back on 98 and drop it back down to 25psi. I might be able to manage something next year, we'll see how the finances go

Ran up 695awkw then turned it up more and made 755awkw. The dyno freaked out from the vibration in the last run so the graph is a bit farked. It probably didn't make 755, 730 is more accurate. As expected it ran out of fuel system, but I was gifted a surge tank so I'll get that installed one day and go again. Ignore the boost, the sensor must've been having a moment. The runs were both around 40psi and 42psi respectively. Where the first graph falls over is it touching the rev limiter, it was still heading north lol

It's hard to be excited when you're this sick. All I can say is thank fark I got a flu shot this year or I would probably be lying in bed right now. The car is ready though. I want to do a one and done if I can, it's turned up a fair bit and I'd rather not run it this hard very often.

Did a little bit of road tuning this morning to work out what it wants for boost control. It went fine so there should be a decent number this afternoon. Also got another 40 litres of E85 into the tank so it's sitting at E67 now.

Frickin yay Friday

The circled parts are just silicone from the sump install. You really need to go to town when getting the sump sealed up. I put silicone around the outside of the main seal just to make sure it seals. They farken leak if you don't seal every single last bit! You didn't wreck the converter, you'll break the trans pump gears first and you already found the 3 steps. You've done well so far, if you farked the trans seal have a look for what you need, front pump seal looks to be it.

Power and air tools are what you need when it comes to getting stuff done quickly. You can zap the gearbox bolts on or off in about 5 minutes with long extensions coming from the back etc. Same for intake manifold, about 10 minutes on or off. Tailshafts in or out ranging from 1 minute to 5 minutes each, it's just knowing what tools to use and what to do pretty much. This time around I used a spare steel trans pan for a platform on my jack to remove and fit the trans. Friggin game changer lol. It literally holds the trans in place and you can pull it out easily. Yes I'm still rolling around in the driveway, despite owning a hoist that I haven't set up yet. Anyhow there's enough of a novel to read, tools and know-how is the takeaway.

Cheers mate, I got it all done so now I can rest. Haha I'm all kinds of worn out.

Got the work done, rear pads only had a couple of mm left. Just gotta wire the 4 port boost solenoid back in and it'll be ready for the dyno. I installed new plugs gapped to 0.5mm and new FG coils a few weeks ago, so that is sorted. The only thing that might let me down is the fuel pumps. They always sat in 98 when the car was down but they are a few years old at this point. Eh we'll find out tomorrow at any rate

Ten litres of ULX oil acquired, will get out there in a bit to drop the oil and fit some brake pads. See how I go, I'm sick as a bastard with the flu so I might die out the arse. Still gonna get it on the dyno tomorrow afternoon, so oil and filter will be done at a minimum. I've driven 124km and used half a tank of fuel...

Looks to be integrated from my 10 minutes of googling. Also chinese whispers are the new comments

Here's the rest, hope this helps some guys doing this stuff by themselves at home ZF_-_TechServiceMan.pdf ZF6_Webinar-FINAL.pdf ZF6HP26.pdf

@k31th can you give me some more file capacity so I can upload another 3 files? Shouldn't need much

Here's a bunch of PDFs related to the zf series of transmissions, mostly 6 speed variants. They range from simple connector seal installs right down to complete rebuild procedures, including the adaptation procedure after a trans reset. ZF.Trans.Mechtronics.pdf ZF_Adaptation procedure.pdf ZF6-GEN2-ZIP.pdf ZF_Workbook-transmission-6-8HP.pdf

The torque converter just pulls out, when you reinstall it you need to spin and push until it goes in enough. The spigot on the converter will be inside the bell housing, if it isn't just spin and jiggle some more. If you don't seat it properly you run the risk of breaking the trans pump gears. I have a pdf or two that show a bit about the zf, I'll dig them up for you. There is one on a Jaguar forum, you'll probably find it if you google it.

Because a lot of work has gone into the base fuel map, there isn't much left to do there. Much the same for the stock pcm. Having wideband correction is a nice thing to have for when things aren't perfect. Live tuning is a plus but having gotten used to flash tuning, there isn't a lot in it. In some cases it makes it miles quicker but not always. I sat in the driveway spooling it up and could adjust the timing on the fly to see if it would spool more, you can't really do that with the stock pcm, unless you have custom hardware to integrate into it. The ignition map is a bit optimistic, I think I already commented on it a few weeks ago. There are a couple of issues with it right now, the cruise control doesn't work and the knock control doesn't work. I can see the knock sensors are hearing the engine noise but they don't actually pull any timing when it knocks. Maybe I'm a dumbass and just missed something in the setup? I emailed them but didn't hear back, I need to give them a call and see when they have time to have a chat about getting it sorted.

Actually surprisingly little left of tuning, the Haltech does a lot of the heavy lifting for you. Just gotta fit the boost solenoid and work out a duty cycle ramp, pretty easy stuff to do. It should come on a little earlier and quicker too cos I can hold the wastegate shut for longer.

$200 later and I have a full tank of E55 due to having some 98 left in the tank, and 2 jerry cans of E85. Told the Haltech the ethanol percentage and it started and drove, it's nearly that simple. Gave it some more timing, will leave it at 15 degrees for now and give it more when the ethanol content is higher. Could probably just give it all the timing now but will wait until Friday. It goes better but still isn't too crazy, will be with more boost though. Injectors are sitting at nearly 50% so there's some left in it.

Siphoned out the 98 from the tank tonight, missus has got a full tank now and I'll be filling mine up with E85 tomorrow. Will refit my 4 port boost solenoid tomorrow, have an appointment to pick up some ULX oil for an oil change before dyno work, will road tune the car before dyno to have a solid base to start from and have some brake pads to fit as well. I have a number I want to see, who's got their guesses? For the record it ran up 449awkw to start with last time, made 495 and ended up with 470. We should see a significant improvement with E85, so another 100kw overall would not be unreasonable

Well the car is back to the way it was last week before I took the trans out. It has another fresh filter, more fresh fluid and a billet flex plate, so that's good. It drives the same as it did last week, no surprises there. Got the car booked in for dyno time on Friday, just gotta frig around swapping the fuel over to E85 and refit my 4 port boost solenoid then it'll be ready.

Went fishing on Sunday, 7 yo daughter caught a Port Jackson shark and I caught one too. I reeled hers in for her, that was fun with one of those tiny kids rods lol

Too late for that, it's attached to the crank and has a trans covering it up now. If you go back through this thread and see a pic of my flex plate, you'll see that there's a bit that was damaged from the factory. I just went around the whole thing and evened it up. I am pretty decent when it comes to being neat with a grinder, it will actually be miles better than it was before.

Out with the na trans and back in with the built trans. Just gotta do the usual buttoning up but I'll do that later or tomorrow, got a couple of sick kids that need some looking after for now. Also unwelded my stock flexplate, balanced my atomic flex plate with a grinder and fitted that cos I don't think the stock unit would have lasted with it making more power.

Yes, anticlockwise aka upwards, unless you are removing your trans with the car on it's roof.