Puffwagon

Old trans out and new trans in. Just gotta button some stuff up and then I can drive it. We'll know tomorrow whether the fuel issue is trans/converter related. Also I ain't gonna chuck all the power through this trans, I'll run it on gate pressure, whatever that may be.

Dunno if I mentioned it a few months ago but when I bought my na territory, I did a trans service on it and a pan bolt snapped as I was undoing it. Anyhow, yesterday I drilled it out and helicoiled the trans case, put a new filter in the trans and sealed the pan up...not with sealant you animal, with a dry gasket. I was gonna swap the trans yesterday but hit a wall after a few hours, I think I'm catching whatever the kids have got cos I ain't got no energy lol

Did a wheel bearing on the Landrover today, carnt was a bit stuffed. Now I'm gonna pull the built trans and high stall out of my territory and install a stock trans and converter. I wonder how long a stock na trans can hold 470awkw?!

Haha yeah nah, it ain't big enough for all that. It would be good to get a much bigger boat that needs some work and chuck a barra in that.

Went fishing, caught a shark and a crab, then let them go. Sea was nice and flat in places, got the boat up to 28kts, which is 52kph or so.

Yep, every day that I don't work on the territory, I can go fishing. Plus petrol and bait is cheaper than car parts lol

Nah nothing. Got sunburnt though

Was gonna pull the trans, went fishing instead

Yerp something will happen. For now I've just registered my Landrover Discovery, that will get the boat out and it has 6 seats so can take the family. Plus it makes hectic V8 noises, is manual and has low range, so a bit of a difference than the zf life. And no it ain't getting a turbo lol

Ok so I might not take it to roll racing just yet. I did a trans service today, mainly to see what the fluid looked like. It wasn't great and there was a bit of a sheen to it, like when bushes are wearing or something metallic is wearing. No chunks in the pan and it still shifts fine but considering the extra fuel use, I'm gonna pull the box out and see what's up. As I've said I reckon it's a converter issue but all that will be checked out shortly. Fark me ay, rebuild the engine, get a haltech and I still can't drive the farken thing.

You've misunderstood my posts. I dgaf what you do, I put the information out there for people to learn. By all means, do things incorrectly for a less then ideal outcome

The fuel usage is a symptom of something else. Afrs are on point and have been the whole time. There isn't a fuel issue per se. At any rate we'll find out one day. Still gonna take it to roll racing next month and chop the locals

Grass is green, the sky is blue, water is wet and filters get replaced. Just cos you can fark a goat doesn't mean you should.

Ended up putting the car on the dyno today, made 495awkw on around 25psi, then backed it down to 470awkw at 23psi for a safety margin. Not bad for 98 octane fuel and water meth. 10 degrees of timing for the 470 and 13 for the 495. Forgot to change the scale back to road speed, runs were started at 90kph and 2800rpm and finished up around 200kph. The little dip your see at the end is the car tagging the limiter. Lol it was all done with a boost tee cos I was diagnosing some stuff the other day and hadn't swapped it back to the boost solenoid. The boost stays there due to the fact of the turbo being well within its efficiency range.

I recommended a replacement air filter last week for someone's car. Next time I saw them the person told me they had blown out the air filter cos it was very dirty. I had to go into further detail then I did in my previous post, about why you need to replace, rather than clean a filter. Wrong word or not on your part is neither here nor there, people like to take shortcuts and will often blow out cabin and air filters to save $30. Gotta put it out there lol

You don't clean filters, your replace them. Air filter, cabin filter, fuel filter, oil filter etc. They can all be cleaned but you don't do that, you replace them. Even if they look good after a clean out, they are still farked. Plenty of people blow air filters out and think they are fine cos they look good again. They aren't. There's more to this story but this is good enough for now lol #endrant

The cabin filter will catch dust from outside. You should see how bad some of the ones I've seen are. A veritable birds nest of mud, leaves and fluff lol

Yeah it's dust central here. I make sure to keep my windows closed as much as possible. Still builds up over time though

The insides of my cars stay clean for ages, it's the outside that gets dirty more often.

I have this trick where I don't let people eat or drink in them, leave rubbish in them and generally don't make a mess. I do the same and they don't get dirty often

Just finished washing the territory, then wiped down the inside with some stuff. I've still got to vacuum but it's nice and clean now....well compared to before it's clean lol

The widebands read exactly as expected. If there was a an air leak introducing air into the exhaust, the sensors would compensate and add extra fuel. They would read normal but in that case the extra fuel would show up on the spark plugs. The plugs look perfect. The fuelling is primarily dictated by the map sensor in the plenum and rpm. If there was a leak in the plenum, the car would still just measure the boost in there and give it the amount fuel it was tuned for at that boost level. It's the only thing doing something between the engine and the transmission at idle, it's spinning the trans pump and slipping internally while the input shaft stays still. I'm no converter or transmission expert though but I do have a spare to install to see if it changes anything. I've done this, I can also log instantaneous fuel economy and it is actually quite a bit higher than 99.9. There's a couple of checks I'll do before swapping the trans and converter. Haha I wanted a converter upgrade anyway, so I'm secretly hoping it is that. Haha not so secret now though!

Yay Friday

Haha no if it was that simple I would have picked it up immediately It was literally fine one day and farked the next, with nothing untoward happening to indicate an issue. I've ruled out a lot of things so far, CBF listing it all now but it's extensive. I have two wideband units, one for the haltech for closed loop fuel control and a seperate unit for a gauge. Both read the same and the plugs aren't getting fouled. It also runs sequential injection, so there is no batch firing going on. It's using the fuel but it isn't running rich according to the plugs. I'm going to check for leaks on the hot side with the smoke tester, then look into the converter possibly being farked. I've already visually checked the manifold for cracks when it was off, I could have missed something. I replaced the vband at the top of the dump pipe today, the previous one was just flat faces together, the new one is designed for the turbine housing outlet and locks into place. There ain't no leaks from that sumbitch. The wideband sensors are immediately after that, so there is either a leak in the manifold or something else is happening. Long story short, the fuel is getting used and the plugs are reading normal, therefore the engine is getting dragged down by something.

Yep at 50% throttle getting up to 100kph, it uses 99.9 on the dash, then if you floor it, it drops to 80 something before going back up when the boost kicks in. Hopefully I can get it sorted cos I've used half a tank to do 110km so far, a sh*tty situation to say the least. I really gotta say again, the mofo moves out when the appointment for boost arrives lol. Test drive today showed 27 to 28psi, still with only 5 degrees of timing, feels like high 400s, if not a tiny bit more. The dyno can wait until I fix the fuel problem so will be a week or two, smoke machine arrives next week so updates will happen then.