Hussydabomb

If you block it off it does get a bit more of a flutter but you can go a step further and use 90 bend right up from the turbo and put a pod on it and that gets a mad long ass flutter sutututtutututututututut. I have also used an ba turbo plastic pipe the one that comes right off the turbo, cut it at half length and put a pod on that. It gets a really deep sounding flutter that goes for ages.

Getting the car back tomorrow if all goes well! Hopefully break the 400kw mark. Had the true track done, tail shaft balanced, super pro bushes thrown in the diff bearing replaced and gotta say the car drives so much better than before no rattling, no axle tramp at all when letting the rear loose. Another quick question, How much is a oil pump installation cost on average if I supply my own billet housing and gears. I've googled the tits off it and cant find an answer..

I went from a stage 1 process west cooler with stock piping to a nizpro stage 3 one and got a hot side piping kit + cold side and man it comes on boost way harder and faster. Used to be around 3500RPM now its about 3000 with the bigger cooler, Just my experience

Ok here is how it went down.. Got a mint haircut was looking fresh as for the weekend, reversed out from my 45° car park and gunned it in 1st gear "vrrrroooooooo" as the revs built up the turbo lag had me on edge ready for it to grip me into the seat and tear a hole in the spacetime continuum. But of course that didn't happen all I heard was BANG CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK,I let off the gas turned off the engine and threw it in neutral and parked it in the first side street with the momentum I had left. Was fkn mint haha https://vimeo.com/170269266 that was the first motor I blew.. lmao the audio makes you cringe Similar result as this time

Haha oh was thinking to myself god dam something is seriously wrong... Yeah ill upload my snap story haha The one with the timing chain is a mock of Tyga's song the original lyrics go as follows. I got Diamonds on my chain been around the world all the hoes know my name haha The rest of that rod in cylinder 4 was actually broken into literally 100 pieces about 5mm each, similar to crushed rock..

Ok guys just checking in, haven't had the car tuned yet, went to get the diff bushes replaced on thursday and ended up leaving the place with a true track diff lined up for the thing. Was showing signs of wear so might as well replace I while the rear end is down. ? Spent today ripping apart my old engine to get the atomik valve springs out to use on my new engine, done the good old socket + hammer trick worked well except I lost one of my deep sockets... I believe it's somewhere in earths orbit now. I've taken out the rods and pistons that survived the explosion, it was the 4th rod that blew right under the wrist pin. All 6 pistons have the same deep imprint from the valves about 3.5mm deep (as deep as the raised outer part) ill post pictures. That sort of damage is caused over time not from the engine exploding I believe? Tune related?

I know better for next time then haha

Yeahhhh haha. Happy with the way it came up though. I think the double sided tape will fail on a hot summers day..

My normal camera is stuffed up on my phone (tradie life) so I used the front selfie one and held it away from me so I'm out of the shot and this is the result.. Didn't think anyone would pick that up ???

No worries ill remove the factory sensor from the vacuum line into the ebc sensor but leave the loom plugged in. Thanks heaps for that. It did genuinely feel like it spooled faster though maybe I am mistaken because I haven't drove it properly in weeks

Yeah next week hopefully or even this week if the tuner is free. Its running about the same boost as before just spooling faster

Ok update: was reading the manual and its set to default kpa haha 70kpa is 10psi... defiantly spooling faster though (as I wipe the sweat from my 4head.) Think its time to put the front bar on and take it to the mechanic for pump and injectors for e85

Threw in an electronic boost controller though having issues haha

Im no expert but 450rwkw on 98 seems a bit high its been done though don't think it will last forever. Good luck with the build anyway ?? if another engine of mine ever goes then atomik is going to get a phone call. (I've had ba series 1 engines) haha They did get stronger rods and valve springs. Forged bottom end

Ok guys need more help ? I've been using all my spare time to get things done so far I've -Installed the nizpro front mount -installed hot and cold side piping -installed oil temp gauge And the part I'm scratching my head over is the electronic boost controller. It is a GFB G-Force II I've wired it up and all is working in that regard it reads -64 on idle for the vacuum and 60psi on the screen when I boost it up down the road... It does feel faster though 60psi faster??? Also the duty cycle is on 0 so it is the lowest setting. one of my actual questions are in the installation guide it says to tap it into the vacuum line directly (ill post pictures) or does it mean vacuum inbetween the turbo and actuator? I'd assume its getting an electronic signal from the sensor? is this the correct line? Now my other question is with the boost regulator in the next picture I've put it into and out of the right ports 100% Though I have installed it right after the turbo before the factory boost solenoid right next to the battery, would that make a difference or should it be after the factory solenoid? Also here is the install guide for some reference