pj4000

Have you got a big exhaust and dump pipe?

Once the rod dropped neatly over the flapper hinge part the rod was then tightened up by 1.5 turns from memory which is about 2mm as suggested.

Its back up and running with the ported housing. Had the workshop swap the housings over. I bench tested the IGW75 with the 5psi Spring fitted. The flap cracks open on 5psi, full length at 10psi. Quick Road test today(too busy for a good test) , gets to 10psi , sits there but spiked to 12psi on the auto gear change from 1st into 2nd at full throttle then it dropped back to 10psi That's enough full pedal till it hits the dyno. What psi is the factory boost cut meant to cut in?

Thanks for this link. Looks pretty straight fwd on page 4. Think I'll play it safe with this part and run with Jets suggestion. Could do without "Rage mode " if I get alignment out.

Any tips on separating the standard exhaust housing from the core or just send it in to the local turbo guy. I picked up a ported rear housing.

Not as yet. Wish the rod was in an easier spot to make an adjustment. Turbo will come off again over this weekend. @jeturbo That's fully clear. Thanks for the brilliant explanation and break down. [emoji106] I've read thru so many threads on here looking for this info. This thread has been a massive help, learnt lots. I'll take all this onboard and respond back once I'm done.

Hey Ralph, I believe the rod is aligned spot on. Though I didn't notice the nylon bush you mentioned. I hooked up a air compressor to test it and from the limited view (fitted on the motor) I can see the rod move a little at each 1 psi of air that I let bleed to the actuator via the red manual boost controller. I don't use this boost controller on the xr6., only used it for testing the actuator. The photo attached is how I tested it(on a old turbo) I'd already fitted the turbo back on the xr6 when I did its test. I believe this is what the previous owner did. Him being a v8 man thought that fitting the big exhaust will work like his v8's. He said it just needed a tune but if since learnt that a tune won't bring the boost back down without further mods. The busted standard leaking actuator certainly didn't help. If I fit the 5psi Spring. Presuming that preload and alignment is correct. I should see "crack open of the flap" at 5psi, then flap full open would be 10psi, on a happy system ?

All replys with suggestions are all taken in. If I can get boost to max out at 7psi I'll be happy. Will try the 5psi Spring that came with the iwg75. Will back the preload off a tad. If still over posts I'll go the ported housing. Trying not to have this become a money pit. The damn big exhaust system has proven to be a headache. Up side is it sounds great.

I'm confident I have the preload correct. Made rod just neatly slip over the lever of the flap, then pulled the rod off and shortened rod by 1.5 turns. Flap cracks open at exactly 7psi too. I'm not looking for big power. Just be happy with low boost that won't skyrocket when full throttle is given. Looks like the port job as mentioned above is a must do thing to give me any hope of getting boost down. Am thinking with the port job and fit the 5psi Spring I should have low stable boost.

Looks like I best be doing the port job. Have been reading lots of posts on here about that. Being I already have the iwg75 , wouldn't the 5psi Spring be ok to use with the ported housing? Just thinking of way not to have to buy another actuator.

Hey thanks for clearing up the "cracking" pressure. If the 7psi Spring had the flap fully opened at 14psi would it mean if I fitted the 5psi Spring the flap would be full open at 10psi ? I'm trying to get this boost down to a stable level. Car came with 4-5" dump pipe into what looks like a very well made 3.5" exhaust. Standard port wastegate still.

A search led me here, good old grave dig. I've tested my 7psi spring as you did with your 12psi Spring. I have 1.5 turns of preload which is about the 2mm. When I pump air into the actuator the rod doesn't start moving till 7psi then isn't fully extended till 14psi. Is the rated spring meant to be the end psi result or is it meant to be the beginning of when the flap starts to open ? Trying to fix my overboosting issue on BA. Hence landing here via search.

Thanks mate, this led me to a doc. Hose from the top of the solenoid goes to the turbo housing. Bottom hose to the actuator.

Bit of a grave dig here , a search landed me here. I've had my turbo off to change actuators but I didn't note which hose went to where on the boost solenoid. Does the hose pointing up on the solenoid go to actuator or to the turbo nipple?

Thanks. I'll have a look. Their price is way under what other workshops are charging.