Bigg_kayz

mate if you've still got that time up your sleeve I would love to cruise on by... ive sent ya a couple pm's too , get back to me when you've got some time , thanks heaps

I'll go you one better and give you a video link rather than the pic I called XFT, asked for simon but he was busy ... spoke to another guy down there for about 10 minutes , he then took my number and said simon would give me a call for a chat and to book it in , haven't heard anything since

The original tuner the previous owner used is known for well.... lets say.... not the best tunes , putting it lightly. I dont think its fair to pay as much as I did for this BA and then run it , hoping for the best at 18-19psi, id rather quality and reliability over power anyway ... plus Im due for my first kid soon , dont really want my knob chopped and my nuts hung by the mrs before I get a bird out the tree because ive gotta fork out packets of money over a car, if you catch my drift

BANG!!! lol ( I only cranked it to 40, dunno why it Karked it)

guess it settled, I will call simon in the morning .....

I dont mind forking out $700-$1000 as long as I come out with a nice 15-16psi tune and a new contoller unit , honestly the car goes smoth and hard and doesnt skip a beat as is, I just know a tee isnt the way to go and jumping from 12psi-13psi utes to 20psi just seems over-the-top for me , im not hearing detonation/pinging the clutch is a brand new xtreme twin plate (so loud with the clanging) so issues / just wanna prevent issues

not my tuner as I say mate, it was previous owners choice , hence why I want it fixed asap - cant trust people I dont know , let-alone never even heard of!

no joke, I agree that's why I was showing the comparison , that last one I think was with the greddy EBC and the only conclusion I can come up with as to why they changed it for a sh*tty boost TEE

does anyone know roughly what simon @ XFT will charge me for a basic tune and replacing the ebc with factory controller if I provide the xcal 4 ? the oem controller on ebay is $50 or would he use the greddy EBC and just get rid of the TEE? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-FORD-BA-BF-FG-MK2-FALCON-SX-SY-TERRITORY-TURBO-WASTEGATE-SOLENOID-/300969863018?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item461333a76a and basically the summary is shouldnt hit boost or should just keep my foot below the 12 psi range?

ralph is about 15 minutes drive from my house if im not mistaken ..... ive already sent him a PM

cheers dude ...from what I can tell the greddy is wired to the factory wiring its plugged in underneath the coolant reservoir ( I know weird spot ) , thatd be awesome if I could grab / even buy the factory solenoid off ya mummba, are your currently running a successful EBC setup?

as the pictures show though , it seems the ebc had some serious boost problems ... judging by the dyno printouts anyway ? still trying to figure out if I just turn the boost down on the Tee would it be ok? hey barnz, I think they were full retard the previous owner told me they made him buy the tee (I have the receipt for that and lifters and valve springs) and stated to him " we couldn't work out how to use the ebc, so we put in a boost Tee" (even though you can find a pdf manual for it piece of piss and even I can understand it)

its light trickery mate, its the turbo reflecting off the black paint ... the engine bay is pretty clean hahaha

these are the dyno sheets from a 14 psi tune and then the "16 psi tune" (which is more like 18 psi shows almost 19-20 on the guage).... I am assuming the 390 hp 14 psi tune was with the EBC , then the 464Hp 16psi tune is with the boost tee... looks like they were getting huge issues with the tappering psi at the end of the rev range on the 390 hp tune using the EBC , could this be why they went to a Boost Tee? I thought it EBC were much more reliable and stable for spiking issues?

battery is relocated to the tray ..... pod filter in its place , 100% no original solenoid , has the EBC which has been disconnected , and the boost T just cable tied ...

I honestly dont know why the factory solenoid was pulled out previously by the owner and replaced with an EBC which is no longer used, and now they just put in a dodgy Tee controller..... Id much have the factory unit back in and tuned on an Xcal... whats the going rate for tunes in Perth when you already own an X4 flasher unit? and where would I get a factory solenoid?

so I've owned my 3rd xr6t for about a week now... all utes , all 6 speeds, my previous 2 were running standard boost solenoids and were flashed tuned to 12 psi(with minor mods). The young bloke I bought this ute off went to house of powerfor his tune.. dunno if the guy down there doing the tune knew what he was doing, he couldn't work out the Greddy electronic boost controller (apparently) that was in there running an original 14psi tune, he supposedly added the boost tee to (im guessing) get past his inexperience by adding a manual boost Tee and what the previous owner told me it was set to 16 psi running 464RWHP. which is what the dyno sheet I was given showed. But on the boost guage its running 19psi with 20 psi spike , which to me is crazy!!! no traction in 1st (obviously) 2nd..3rd and forth snap sideways ... it maintains 19psi but pushing a BA MKii turbo that hard almost makes me sick .... 1)Is it too much for the car with the bottom end? 2) the guage looks to be hooked up to correct hoses, could it be reading wrong (seems accurate)? 3) is it safe to just manually turn down the boost Tee with the current tunes? can the air/ fuel mix ect get stuffed up/ do I risk doing any damage? any negative effects or can I just turn it down? any advice is helpful, cheers guys mods are: -atomic hd valve springs. -process west stage 3 cooler -Turbo smart race port bov -Brand new genuine ford lifters -Brand new Bosch 044 fuel pump and 4l surge tank -Brand new 840cc injectors. -Brand new genuine coil packs -G-reddy electronic boost controller (not used (boost Tee in place now???) (Boost is set to 16psi- supposedly, yet its running 19-20psi) -Nizpro forward facing plenum -Gt35/40 turbocharger ported and bigger wastegate and actuator -Battery relocated to tray. - 4’’ dephillipo dump, twin 3" exhaust

Pretty good , but to be honest the last time I got a wheel alignment off Ape was a couple of years ago . Myself and the missus have been taking our cars down to tyre power in malaga just on beach rd. The scottish bloke that owns the shop gives me great prices on tyres and so when im there I get the alignment as well.

WA suspension are also good, but the experiences I've personally had seem to be that they're always busy and could never fit me ( a sign of good workmanship I suppose) and they were always a bit money hungry... I dunno , maybe the situations changed for them as it has with Ape.....and you're right they DID used to be more 4wd orientated but since they're just about the only place that does decent airbag work I'm kind of obligated to use their services... and best of all they're local.... I indeed have the link , hes got the rego transferred for me now ..... and today it goes in for a service and inspection by Darren at monsta torque, pending its all sweet I shall be pickin it up this afternoon. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/west-perth/cars-vans-utes/2005-ford-falcon-sedan/1077984673

Hahahaha, Yeah mate.... They've got a wheel alignment machine now, the place has come a long way

Okay so , I've decided to get the car regardless , as I am always true to my word. But ive decided to get all the B/S out the way for piece of mind.... My plan is this, The cars done 145,000 ish km's ... everything seems sweet aside from the gearbox , which even though horsepower factory in VIC vouched for tuning the Zf for plate pressure changes etc , I'm worried it may pack out so I need a back up! Solution: There's a ZF 6 speed I can get from a BF F6 and its only done 26,000km which should be a straight swap if I'm not mistaken? its $800, I've spoke to Monsta torque rob has said $1500 to remove old one , refit the one I supply and programme it to the car and give new fluids and filter ... so $2300 to me sounds a whole lot better than $6,000-$8,000 and being such low km's I'm hoping it'll go good. so I'm going to buy the box, hope the current one doesn't sh*t itself , if it does I've got one ready to go. BOX looks tidy : My second issue Rear "Airbag suspension" So the guy I am buying this car from is supplying me with the factory springs as well (off the car) but he hasn't said anything about the shocks or shielding/ insulation. To get the car covered by insurance legally (because I almost had insurance payout issues with my last car) I'm thinking about just pulling out the bag system - selling it on ebay or gumtree and smashing on some slightly lower springs than factory, but ones that are still of legal height. Solution: I spoke to the boys at Ape suspension (by the way I cant recommend these guys highly enough - always great workmanship, competitive pricing and great advice , they've done all my vehicles as well as my entire family). one of the guys that works there , has a set of near new sl springs he took off his bf before selling it , he said for $250 he will sell me the springs , shocks, covers and insulation .. and for $300 he will remove the entire bag system including all the hosing and leads and refit the shocks and springs he's supplied .. I'm thinking for $550-$600 for piece of mind and keeping the car legal it'd be my best bet.... Thoughts on both these options ? pricing thoughts? better options? any offer of cheaper parts?

So I spoke to Darren at Monsta Torque today , he was explaining that there's no way to guarantee the gearbox is okay unless he pulls it down and pulls it apart which is going to cost me a couple grand ... obviously not something I am willing to do on behalf of the current owner (I can just imagine him pulling it apart telling me its stuffed , then 2 grand out the window for a car I don't even own) ... I asked him about the suggested reset to stock ZF tune. I honestly can remember his exact wording but it was along the lines of " if I set it back it could cause the gearbox to flare up and start slipping or cause more damage," he also reckons that he doesn't like when the ZF's have been tuned.. but I'm not sure why. I really don't know what to do, I was so set on this car. He also stated that the fact the car has nearly 150,000kms and mods were done at 80,000kms it could be a problem. Darren feels that modding the ZF tune without at least a strength build is a BAD thing. Also the fact it has airbag suspension is no ideal, he says that there often problems with hoses melting/getting squashed and that they're high maintenance, any advice on that? I've never owned a "bagged car" (its rears only) any advice is greatly appreciated.

The next one I have out I will make a tutorial for you and everyone else mate my suggestion while you wait for the tutorial go on to ebay or gumtree and try track down an ICC that matches your current one for a straight swap with the main cd unit or go to this site and purchase a unit.. http://www.asllogistics.com/catalog/Single-CD-module-to-6-in-dash-CD-stacker--p-13.html or upgrade to colour screen with a 6 stacker if you dont already have a colour screen http://www.asllogistics.com/catalog/Camera-on-Factory-Screen-V2-BA-BF-p-26.html

yeah mate, shoot me a PM heres a basic link, it wont tell you a lot but I've fitted plenty. once again it utilizes the factory NAV input on the base of the ICC http://stingeraustralia.com.au/what-fits-my-car/#models/90/categories/16/products/89/174

Its awesome that your brother in law happened to get lucky with is violence, but to call my legitimate advice sh*t is disrespectful you clown. I am telling you personally I have seen them inked, I've even inked one myself. You think they put those stickers there for sh*ts and gigs?? yeah good advice telling you to use one at at time... you know why it continues to work with just 1 cd ? because you aren't over loading the stacker mech which can dislodge the loading cogs- dont confuse yourself if you cant load 6 cds like its suppose to your mech is stuffed!.... furthermore why would you flip around an ICC in all different directions to get a cd out ? the actual cd section will come out seperately , that way no risk of "inking" (because it actual does happen) and no risk of scratching the face.