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Bigg_kayz

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Everything posted by Bigg_kayz

  1. not really suited for 370rwkw in a ute ? they looked meaty but didn't seem to pull the car up well at all :s what about bedding ? rotors weren't replaced
  2. Alrighty so I did my full brake bleed, what an efforts, between cracking the rear tyre nuts, jacking at multiple points due to being so low , and having to bleed the brakes through the inlet pipes to the calliper instead of the bleed vales because they were so seized, ended up completely rounding one off that was already half gone from the previous effort of whoever that may be... anyway , shes all clean now , pedal felt a bit spongy sittin, I havent taken it for a drive yet ( gonna wait till morning to do the pad bed in) curious on 2 things: 1) with the bendix utlimate pads and dba rotors is there a bed in process of it "fit and go" as ive read? 2)The old pads I pulled still had heaps of meat on them, yet I was getting heaps of shudder and brake fade .. the pics below are the "bendix" pads I took off. Im just trying to work out what kind of pads they are as I cant find their pattern anywhere and wondering if this caused the poor braking as well as the fluid? they have really bad cut outs, some of the pad rusting and braking off in my hand as youll see in one of the pictures...so the pads any idea what series of bendix? why the pattern?
  3. ahh I see, what exactly do they edit to allow the car to register the revs in accordance with speed rather than clutching ?
  4. Dont do it , its not needed and everything runs through the ECU tunes .. plus the factory actuator / controller is good for 40+ psi ive been told I had a Turbo smart boost Tee and an eboost 2 EBC , the factory unit is just as good/ reliable with no boost spike issues- keep it simple mate
  5. BA mkii xr6t ute 500rwhp - heavy duty twin plate clutch After my recent retune ive noticed that when I push in my clutch the revs dont drop to idle point... the only time I reach idle revs is at a stand still. say if im cruising at 80km/h and put into neutral or keep the clutch depressed the revs will drop with the speed ,, why would this be? Its even worse on cold start and im finding when cold the revs jump around a fair bit , some times ill even get a stall if I try take off after first cold start in the mornings, never had this issue with other xr6ts or tunes??
  6. thursday august 27........2016
  7. If those maps are ready could I please grab a copy ?
  8. The B259-060 is for BF's with stability control ....http://www.oziautoparts.com.au/power-brake-booster-part-no-b259-060r/ The B259-058 looks as though theres no stability control support ? http://www.oziautoparts.com.au/power-brake-booster-part-no-b259-058r/
  9. Bigg_kayz

    Brake Help?

    youre in brisbane and on gumtree it seems the sky's the limit http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-qld/territory+wrecking/k0l3008841?fromSearchBox=true
  10. Bigg_kayz

    Brake Help?

    no problem dude , I was just looking in the auto one fathers day catalogue (valid 26th august to sunday september 6th 2015) and they have a special on $299 for a set of DBA T2's and set of bendix ultimate pads.... im not really sure how well the slotted T2's go though , best of luck
  11. if the offer is open im keen in this adventure, itd be a first time with the ford crew
  12. Bigg_kayz

    Brake Help?

    DBA4000s (slotted only for fronts, don't get the "slotted and drilled" as the drilled have tendancies to crack in some cases) Bendix ultimate pads (model is DB1473ult) I had huge shudder issues and all sorts with my old ba mkii xr6t and pulling up badly (running 300rwkw) , smashed on the 4000s with the bendix ultimates. My only complaint is the amount of brake dust , I hate it .. but its either good brakes and dust or no dust and fairly poor braking. people also say the bendix ulitmates can be rough on the rotors and wear them down quickly... I never had such an issue and I generally give my brakes a hard time. You'll get a set of dba 4000 T3's for about $200 (ebay it) and you'll get ulitmates for as low as $100 (ebay that as well) if youre doing it yourself get a caliper / piston spreader $38 from supercheap or $14 on ebay Get a little ford brake fluid too $15-$20 (from the dealer) Then get onto this tutorial..... http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/87706-tutorial-how-to-change-brake-pads/?hl=tutorial
  13. sorted ...
  14. Just reading through this nicely detailed explanation of how to change pads and rotors from this link... http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/87706-tutorial-how-to-change-brake-pads/?hl=tutorial just curious in the "time to change pads" section is it necessary to do step 7 (it states after you've re-spread the calipers that you need to open the bleed valve again to release possible air pockets, ive never heard of this before if you're not doing a brake flush, is it a must? also it states when changing your pads always machine your rotors, my rotors are looking sweet , no warps, barely any wear , no scuff marks or track lines in the rotor, can I just switch the pads knowing all the fluid etc is good and not bother with rotor machining?
  15. so really the only one way is engine crane? :S
  16. That would be awesome if you can spare it, any money saved is a plus. What if I just use the one mount to replace the driver side one that might be worn? Ive done some research into changing it myself without a hoist etc. Is it possible to jack the car up a little with one jack as mine is on SSSL springs , then once I have access underneath, can I use another jack to jack up the engine from the sump with a wood board? will this method work? is it safe trusting a trolley jack to hold a block up? (obviously I will take saftey precautions and put something to prevent it dropping)
  17. I'm a bit late joining this thread but im still having some fuel consumption issues as well since I bought my BA mkii , after warming it sits a little above a quarter with all the mods running 370rwkw, after fixing turbo manifold flange leak and exhaust manifold leak its slightly better but whats the best way to know if my thermo is stuffed? from my experience people with the same mods generally sit at the same temperature?
  18. I Couldn't physically see anything wrong with the engine mounts could it be the rubber stoppers and the gearbox bracket? upon further fiddling I've come to realise the sound is there even sitting stationary slightly revving the car all through the rev range .. high revs and low revs, the vibration / grinding sound gets worse and more noticeable the higher the revs get, its also more audible when I put my head near the gear stick inside the car , and when I pop of the plastic gear stick surround its even more audible. There's also a large gap, cant remember if my old T was like this ? maybe its just audible due sound deadening material missing?
  19. Ive got a set of brand new plate flippers up for sale, can install neatly too if you wanna add to your collection of "protection" ... I mean with al the cctv in hoon hotspots in perth its your best bet if you have sinister intentions
  20. hahaha ... switching to instant fuel usage and giving it flat foot watching it climb over 100l/100kms is a wondeful , yet gut wrenching feeling
  21. yes, but only slightly in 2nd 3rd and 4th (low revs) it could be heard, I assumed it was the gearbox sound they generally make under load, my last couple xr6 did it but only in 2nd n third low revs and not that badly ... now all the exhaust leaks are fixed and everything is sealed not only can you hear it more but its actually worse and more noticeable when im giving it a hard time
  22. im not really sure I didnt own the car at the time
  23. Get yaself some jammers instead
  24. clutch is 1000kms old, so yep its new..... vibration most audible at high revs.. Is it a hard fix mate???? might as well get everything sorted over the next week.,...do you mean engine mount or gearbox mount? I still run a heat shield and I cant see there being that much heat it wrecked the mounts? but I'm only guessing you'd know more than I
  25. Alright so the is the verdict...... 1 of the turbo flange to manifold bolts had fallen out at the bottom , the other bottom one came out after two twists with my finger and came with the stud and the nut.... ended up getting them all out studs and all, replaced the flange , replaced the studs and nuts and used a nut locker (turbotrana recommendation- and I thank him for that and info he's given me) ... putting it all back together I noticed a leak from my power steering pipe (the high pressure one) Pretty sure its the O-ring issue , tried tightening but no love. checking everything else 10 of the 12 exhaust to block bolts were pretty lose and one was missing the bolt , so tightened and replaced the missing one. This was a bastard of a job , had to go get myself a ratchet spanner kit came in 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm, 17mm.... I thought I could swing the 13mm using my socket set and extension , boy was I wrong! Had to bend a spanner or two as well (not that I mind at least I have the tools for the job, for another time.) Anyway a good 8 hours on the car and 2 hours getting parts and tools, fun times. She goes SWEET now , 15.5psi to 16(maybe its just a gauge reading change but seems way quicker and responsive as you can imagine... got some vaccum back and no exhaust gurgle on throttle back off.. idles so much nicer, take off is smoother as with gear changes (a lot less hopping and splutter) There's only one downside, upon test drive and giving it a good go, I noticed a vibration sound coming from the gear box in high revs (maybe its the twin plate clutch?), goes away if say I'm 5000 in 3rd and then I shift it to 4th ... but if I hurt it and then tack my foot off the throttle , its definitely noticeable.. I've got the 6 speed manual and I went with this specifically because I was under the impression these were the best made boxes for the BA's.... or could the box be letting go at 500RWHP even though I'm running a twin plate clutch good for 800hp?
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