DAM18T

I'm a fan of the pod... Sounds good and as it was my first mod from stock, did make a slight difference in performance (atleast I thought so anyway)! Gotta use some type of heatsheild to help it out though... I've got hard piping as well to help keep some heat out.

I've got spacers on the front of the ute only. Had no problems or anything with them. Did it because one of the arms of the suspension (not sure what it's called) was really close to rubbing the tyres.....

that would be $250,000 spend $200,000 on a falcon and it would be a seriouse piece of gear... ← Spend $200,00 on a bathtub and it would be a serious bit of gear! What's the price in Europe or even the states? it's so unfair. They get their cars AND ours cheaper than we do Lumpy ← I've got an uncle in the US and he picked up a new M5 late last year for around USD$160 000... (I think it was about that anyway)

I'm thinking about going out for my first run too... I'll PM you if I decide to go..... Dave

One thing I did think I'd have to watch is whether the old girl starts to eat up any of the oil being 0W-40.....

A bit of info; EXS is an off the shelf oil for road bikes, but is from the higher performance end and is more expensive ($98.95 x 4L). I also work closely with Belray and trust their judgment after seeing some of the equipment they supply lubricants to. Belray are big in the mining industry, where if they provide a substandard product they could cost a company millions in lost time of that equipment shutting down. Not that I would run this long, but I've been told, and believe that I could run this oil up to 30000km and it would more than likely come out looking better than some of the other more expensive car oils on the market..... Your comment on bikes/race motors running at constant higher rpm is true but that kinda proves that the oil will be doing the job easier as it under less pressure. Temperatures are the same so the oil properties are the same too.... I'll definately be keeping an ear out for noises though...

Fair comment, should also add, the other oil was only about 3000km old too...

Also forgot to add earlier.. It isn't the slightest bit noisier through the whole rev range either and it's been in for well over a week now too...

Hi guys, Thought I'd post this up and see what you think! I had Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 in my ute and ran up 215 rwkw (down 30rwkw but that's been fixed up now!), it was checked and was running that curve consistently, so it was rolled forward, dumped the oil and oil filter and changed to Belray EXS 0W-40 Superbike oil. It was warmed back up, checked the oil level and ran again pulling out a 226rwkw... That's a 10rwkw gain from oil.... And yes it was a change to thinner oil but not by much, especially at running temp. Interesting gain for the dollars huh...... Dave (I'll try posting the image right way up!)

There's a red SS marked driving around southern Sydney too... I've seen it twice on Heathecote road......

Another quick note for the ute owners out there.... This TSB covers Sedans ONLY apparently because of the difference in the rear suspension between sedans and utes..... To be honest I don't know how that affects the Park brake making noise but hey..... That's what I was informed today by Ford.....

Just over 700nm - kept down to save the box ← Thanks

This is a dumb question, but hey, I don't know the answer right now! but what measure is the torque in on your graph?

All I can say is, I paid $450 for dunlops first up and they were great tyres, but gone in no time, and I've got $285 Kumho just on becuase I'm short of cash and they are noisey as hell.... Sorry can't help too much more than that!

Hey all I know is what it did in a 4 cyclinder 1000cc sports race bike!

Most car oils are of fairly low quality compared others out in the world such as bike oils.... Don't get me wrong, they do a great job and take care of your car and basically do everything they say they will, but if you're going to analyse and worry about it, you're looking in the wrong direction. For starters most car oils make synthetic oils out of mineral oils refined and refined till they can legally be called synthetic. Bike oils are a hell of a lot more expensive, and are way over engineered for the job, but if you're looking for power gains and protection through engine oils, I'd be looking at something like Belray EXS 0w-40 (about $100/4L). It's a high grade 'real' synthetic oil. I know that this oil has made a 2hp at the wheel difference in a road bike and I'd like to test it back to back in my car as soon as I get the chance to see if there is any power gain at all. That's my 2 cents anyway!!

Dont know where I read it, could have been on here, but bike companies have an agreement not so speedos past 300km/h ( digital ones anyway). Sounds like a crock, but having watched 5 or 6 of these types of videos, they never get past 299 km/h. Food for thought. Scotty ← You're spot on, (I work for Yamaha Australia.....) Dave

If you get a pod, extend the piping to right down behind the headlight and a simple heat sheild, it works awesome. Unifilter offer the whole package and it makes a difference to both performance and sound. Also you can get away with up to 30 000km without having to clean it (depending on conditions) and it will never let dirt through, it will clog before it lets ANY dirt into your motor unlike K&N. Dave

That's it!!! No beer or cruise control at 200+..... I'm selling the car!

300 - 350kms seems on the low side oh mighty phantom one... You having too much fun??? I mostly managed (when stock) 400kms+ a tank including lots of peak hour commuting, but all depends how you drive and what gear you are in, and what you clasify as a tank (60ltrs+) Good luck! Ben. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I was getting around the same km's as you, now edited and if I'm taking it easy, I get a little more from a tank, not huge amounts to write more home about though... Dave

While everyone is chucking in there 2 cents, might as well throw mine in too!!! Got the edit last week, stock tunes were good power but not feeling so good in my car (long story including valve bounce and pinging), so I got it custom tuned 2 days ago and now it is unreal. So happy with it only running 9psi with 233rwkw(started at 185rwkw). (at least for now anyway) In short, get the edit, worth every cent, but spend a few more dollars and get it custom tuned

Mines pretty much the same as that!

Not true.... All depends on the filter.... K&N have the market through marketing not really performance wise..... Although a heap of people will swear by them........ Filters like unifilter, born out of protecting dirt bikes, filter much better and breathe better at the same time... Their job is pretty simple, unifilter foam is made of thousands of hexagons all over each other essentially making a maze to get through the other side... all this twisting and changing of direction of air makes the dust drop out and stay in the filter/filter oil. K&N tries to do a similar thing using the layers of wire mesh and then having cotton guaze oiled to trap the dirt. It just won't perform as well.... If you ever have a chance to go in the pits of the V8 supercars, ignore the stickers on the side and look what is filtering the air on their cars........

Personally, I went for a unifilter rampod, put way down under the headlight with heat sheild and it's perfect, (I know all the APS CAI does is channel air from under the front light anyway), with the difference noticeable when driving. I haven't had a problem with it when I've gone back to ford. but saying that, I also haven't had any problems that they could use that as an excuse either.