sprouly07

My bad, posted up the old graph. This is the new one. From memory there is 0% duty cycle on the boost control at top end so you would expect it too hold well.

It only use to turn 1 tyre on wet grass where now it'll turn 2

Little bit of an update on the car. I have since removed the standard intake and airbox and replaced it with a process west 4" racebox intake. Made a huge difference in torque as it could finally breathe a little better without the restriction in the intake. However a couple weeks after removing the standard intake it snapped a cyro treated input shaft on the zf, so box was pulled out and billet shaft and some extra clutches throw into it. Car is now making 501kw on daily tune and yet to put a big tune into it.

Just out of curiosity, did Dave at cpv give you a hand with this?

Hey guys, so as the title says im just wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to swap a zf auto into a car that is say 30 years old and get it to actually run. I'm more worried about getting the zf to work than the motor because I know we can get the motor to run. Is there a way to get the standard computer to run the zf and the motor in a completely different car or does the computer not like playing the game? If not the standard computer, is there something aftermarket that would allow the zf and barra to run happily.

At the moment I'm at 1.6sec for a 10.5 at 132mph. I'm more just curious at what time everyone else is getting and there setup.

Just curious to see what people's 60ft times are that have the a zf? Is the auto built or stock, have built shafts and what converter? Also what technique people are using. I have heard of people using the handbrake and foot brake and then just flooring the accelerator and then letting go of all the brakes at a certain rpm eg 3000rpm. Another one is just brakes and then just build boost to a certain level and then just ensuring they leave on a certain boost level.

So a couple of weeks ago the gearbox selector cable came off the lever at the gearbox leaving the car stuck in drive. I finally got around to fixing it properly after the cable ties that were holding it on came off and car was stuck in drive again. I decided to remove the lever from the gearbox, remove the little ball joint and just nut and bolt the selector cable on there. So I thought I would do a little write up for anyone else that may want to do it or has to do it if their cable has come off. I recommend doing it before your cable falls off because I can gaurantee that it'll happen at the most inconvient time and you'll be stuck where ever it happens, I was just lucky it happened at home! The only cost is the nut and bolt but most people have that laying so it'll pretty much cost you nothing to do. This is the quick fix that we came up with to get the car going again so we could move it out of the way. Good ole zip ties did the trick and got it moving, but is definetly not a permanent fix. The lever is located on the passenger side of the gearbox so the car will need to jacked up or lifted up so you can get under it to remove the lever. After the car is jacked up or lifted the lever can be removed by taking off a nut with a 13mm socket/spanner. The lever will just slide off, may need a bit of a wiggle but should just slide off. Once the lever is off you can remove where the cable attaches to the lever. There are several different ways to do it, I chose to grind the opposite side to where the cable attaches and then punch out the little tab. Once you've removed the little tab you will need to either drill out or file out the bush inside the end of the selector cable so a bolt will fit through it. I used a 5/16 bolt as it was the only bolt I had at the time that would work. As much as I hate using something imperial on the car it's all I had at the time. Would probably be better to use 8mm bolt so you don't need metric and imperial tools if you ever need to take the lever back off in the future. Once the bolt will fit through the selector cable hole refit the lever and put the bolt through the lever and cable and tighten them up. Ensure to use a nyloc nut to ensure it doesn't come loose over time and come off again. I didn't use a washer but afterwards I thought it's probably a good idea to put a washer between the cable and the head of the bolt/nut depending on which way you put nut and bolt on. This took all of about half an hour from start to finish and is a cheap, easy and quick mod that could save you some pain down the track.

Any updates on this? Having a very similar issue at the moment but am pretty sure it's just a voltage issue. Car will sit there for for 8 days while I'm out at work and when I get back my x4 says the system voltage is 11.8V. Start the car up and it sounds like a lumpy v8 for a minute and then comes good.

QLD Sam/ CPV Tuning F6 sedan - Palmyra 10.55 @132

Cheers mate, yeah definitely can't complain the time. Can't wait for next time to see if we can improve on the time. Had issues getting it off the line well so get that sorted and it should go a little quicker.

So went to strip a couple weeks ago and it didn't go to badly. 10.5 at 132mph, had a couple small issues so that gives us something to work on for next time. In my opinion it's got a little more left in it but only time will tell.

Yeah I forgot to mention I've got an upgraded converter aswell as a built gearbox. I've got a new some brand new et streets waiting aswell so now I just need to find some time to get down the strip and see what I can do. It's a great turbo, I can't believe how much top end it has its just unreal.

Yeah alright, first time I've ever heard of a company doing it was monsta torque. Do they all perform roughly the same? I had always been pushed towards a gtx or a precision. Yeah mine has the .7 cover.

They seem to keep it fairly quiet though. I've had turbo Falcons for about 3 years now, with the last one being a bf and it wasn't till I got the f6 and started talking to Dave that I even heard about this turbo. So they have done well on keeping it a bit of a secret. But I have seen on Facebook a company called RaceEquipped doing a very similar turbo now. They call it a high flow gt35 which has a 66mm