muso

It ran on LPG all the time except for when starting on petrol for a minute or so. But it hasn't run at all lately and won't until it's fixed.

The plug in the photos seems to be the culprit - it supplies injector #1 and 2 I think, but also the fuel pump, there are two other plugs like it I'm assuming they supply injectors 3,4,5,6. If the plug is not connected it doesn't blow the fuse - if connected it blows the fuse as soon as ignition is switched on. I am assuming that the female (lower section) of the plug is the power side but that doesn't necessarily mean that the short is on that side but it's more than likely. I cannot find any visible damage, it's probably inside the loom which I will have to open up and investigate....in the mean time I've bought an old VY wagon as a back up car (needed a wagon anyway) so there's no hurry now to get my beloved turbo back on the road.

Yes I have isolated the problem but am not sure exactly where in the loom the damage is. It's obviously in the power feed of that plug so I will have to pull it apart and actually locate the problem and repair....thanks heaps for your advice guys

It still blows sometime....it's intermittent like lots of electrical problems. I think the plug may be faulty getting too hot next to the thermostat. I can't get a mini ats sized circuit breaker anywhere....they are only in the older style larger fuses ats size.

Jaycar only have the larger fuse size in circuit breakers, I'll try autobarn

I've isolated it down to a plug which comes out of the loom and connects to #1 petrol injector, this plug literally sits against the thermostat so it would get hot. If I keep that plug away from metal or disconnect it the fuse doesn't blow.....at night you can see the spark as it shorts out. JVK where can I get one of these circuit breakers? Could I use a multimeter?

I've already taken the upper manifold off myself but today the auto electrician said he wanted to get the loom out completely. I will look at it on the weekend. You can hear the spark when you move the loom around then the fuse blows. If I look at it at night I may be able to see the spark.....all I need is darkness, good eyes and 50,000 15 amp fuses I'm also looking for a cheap car to get me around while I'm fixing the XR6T, I have a loan car some nice people lent me but it has no brake lights so I avoid driving it....it also blows fuses...the brake light fuse

Found it.....it's an intermittent short in the wiring loom under the inlet manifold :( So out comes the inlet manifold......fun times.

Mobile Auto electrician looked at it yesterday but didn't have time to pull out upper inlet manifold to get a good look. Last night I removed the upper inlet manifold to gain access to all the injector wiring. Couldn't see any evidence of short circuits which would be bad enough to blow a fuse and give off a burning smell. The main loom behind the upper inlet manifold had been rubbing against the air cond pipe assembly where it goes thru the firewall on the passenger side. while the aluminium pipe had a 'dent' in it from the rubbing the actual loom still had hard grey plastic conduit with no evidence of burning or shorting. I will put some black foam AC insulation around the pipe Tonight I checked coil packs and cleaned some oil which was in #2 coil pack spark plug area but didn't find any evidence of burnt/shorted wiring. Put new 15 amp fuse in and it blew after it cranked for a few seconds. Then I unplugged all the petrol injector connectors and cranked it.......no problems cranks repeatedly without blowing the fuse......so I then plugged each petrol injector connector back one at a time and it cranked with no issues (I didn't crank for long I don't want it firing without the upper inlet manifold on). It cranked without blowing the fuse when I connected each one........but it's now confusing because it didn't blow the fuse at all with all 6 injector connectors back on :( But it now cranks no problems without fuse blowing and would probably start and be driveable......but the mobile auto elec is looking at it again tomorrow. Perhaps there was a short with one of the petrol injector looms which I temporarily 'fixed' by unplugging them all. All this testing was done with the LPG fuses removed to keep that out of the equation.....it starts on petrol anyway and cannot be started on gas even in an emergency. But I want the problem found and fixed before I put it back on the road........otherwise it could break down again :(

Cheers guys I'll have a look today, mechanic can't look at it until next week so until then I'll have to either buy a cheap 2nd car (a bit drastic) or borrow one Being a one car one driver family sucks!

Today my car stopped and would not crank let alone start. The RAA came and found that the 15 amp injector fuse (fuse #30 cabin fuse box) blew each time he replaced it. The engine would crank when bypassing the ignition but would not fire. He ordered a tow truck and it was towed home. The car is dual fuel and has liquid lp gas injection. I removed the lp gas system fuses then replaced the 15 amp inj fuse again and it cranked and started, it ran for a short while then stopped, it had blown the fuse again. There was also an unusual burning smell from under the bonnet, also recently I've noticed that the ICC screen goes dim every now and then but probably unrelated, the battery is new and alternator is fine as are the battery terminals. But something is going on with the fuel injector wiring to blow fuses, has anyone else experienced this?