JVK

What, no love for vasoline? Thanks Luke appreciate the feedback.

UUMMMM so no one has refitted turbos in the last 12/24 months and has any feedback to whether or not a turbo flange gasket should be used considering Ford did not. I just dont want to fit one if it is going to fail in a short amount of time.

When fitting up a new turbo and the old setup was not using a gasket between turbo and manifold, Are you guys putting this flange gasket in or not using it? Or if fitted is it doomed to fail ? Cheers

Comming along nicely Joe, Love the attention to detail and quality writeup.

Good to see us old timers still have a go!

Spray the engine number with brake clean and as it dries the engine number becomes very easy to read (momentarily) .

You more than likley got a bad tank of fuel. I filled my tank with 98 while traveling and all I got was ping. Had to take it easy and cruise till the next refill and all was good.

More to the story than just oil unless he put 80/90 diff oil in it.

All in the Tuna I reckon !

Maybe he got another user name ?

Youd have trouble bleeding that front sucker.

Put the std springs in for the drags as it will aid in weight transfer on the rear. If you like no traction and sliding leave in the ssl. It doesnt take much to swap the rear springs over.

You can put on a catback without having to alter the tune so a varex setup would be in the same boat. Hiflow cat or bigger dump pipe would be another story.

Roger Cordia and Impellor or they same,same?

Nice machine. He has already done all his research on it by the sounds.

f*cken roos, Lucky you werent on a bike. They cause alot of vehicular damage up here but im sure some cityite will say we should be more careful and stop driving cars and preserve more roos!

Plan on your valvesprings taking a day if you havent done them before and look up atomic on youtbube and it will give you a idea how the chain tensioner works and how to retract it . Guys who have done a few can probably do them in 3 or 4 hours.

Gunna or who ever you are now, when you get this tool check that the bolts all run through the 4 threaded areas and come through the bottom without any issues. Also the air line they supply you with that goes in the s/plug hole to fill the cyl with air to keep the valves seated while changing springs May have a schraider valve still fitted in the bottom of it which will not let air into the cylinder. Which in effect leaves you open to possibley dropping a valve while changing springs. You only need to remove the valve and it then will do its job. I just bought a tool last week and had these issues and had to retap the threads all the way through as the bolts would not go through the base of the tool. Hope this helps.

So greg if you have no 2nd and 4th and no engine braking in 3rd in auto mode but have engine braking in 3rd manual mode is it still just a wiped front band ?

Those die grinding tips have done some work . All I can say is that you and your dad are on the ball and you should be proud of your old man, He has taught you well and obviously you have learnt about patience and being thorough as well. Threads like this are pleasure to view and follow with anticipation of the final result. Good job guys.

If I dont find a garret housing in good nic s/h soon then I might be the guinea pig.

Has anyone used the Kingugawa rear housing to replace std garrett one when it has developed multiple cracks. If anyone has bought or used one is the quality good or poor ?

Plug gap should be about .8 to .9 depending on how much boost you are running.

How much is the tool to rent Luke , Or do you know anyone selling one ?

Rubber coupler is not the same. Turbo is a tad bigger between the bolt centers as is is the yoke.