rollex

No but its pretty obvious. Take the coil pack cover off and they line up exactly with the top of the coil pack pushing it into the block when you screw the cover down.

Was purring like a kitten on the way to work today. Feels like a new car. Now I just need to figure out the bloody clutch.

Yeah it still fired when I did the same but when listening to the exhaust note it was noticeably rougher with ~3 of the coils pulled halfway out. I'm guessing when hot it turns to sh*t as it wasn't missing completely when I played around with it. Tonight is the first time I've gone for a drive lately without it dropping a cylinder.

Ok I don't want to jinx it but think I fixed the problem. Above the coilpacks on the head cover there are rubber stoppers that press down on the coil and make sure it is tight. Cyl 6,5 and 4 were all missing them. I cut up some hose and stuck it in the same place and the car has survived about an hour without dropping a cylinder. Wish me luck!

The front right quarter and bumper have been replaced at some stage before I bought it. Everything looks ok underneath though and this problem is very new, eg the past ~6 months. So it is definitely possible though I would have thought by dropping the box and tightening everything up it would have improved things. Box has been out a lot of times though due to the wrong pressure plate meaning it's been out about 5x now.

I put new engine mounts in not that long ago but pretty sure they are shagged already. I swear these cars eat bushes for breakfast, crazy has fast they sh*t themselves. All the gearbox bolts like undoing themselves as well, even with loctite on them every mechanic that looks at it says they have worked loose. edit: What does an auto conversion cost? Lol Is there any vacuum boost on the master?

Well wasn't too bad this morning but still something wrong with it. Sometimes second goes in smooth as butter, other times even double declutching it in and it has a crunch. It is just so inconsistent, sometimes you can push it into gear with 1 finger, other times you have to really force your hand on the stick. Feels like the friction point shifts quite dramatically as well, meaning I bunny hop around car parks as the friction point moves by a whole inch, then immediately goes back to normal and makes me think I'm going crazy and just imagining it. Doing my head in...

It's basically brand new from malwood roughly a year ago when the plastic bit broke off my factory one. Be pretty annoyed if his expensive one has sh*t the bed already.

An o2 sensor measures oxygen, a misfire regardless of reason will read lean as you have excess unburnt oxygen in the exhaust. Eg if I unplug all my coils it will read 20:1 or whatever the max lean condition is as none of the oxygen is being burnt. If I unplug injectors and the coils it will still read 20:1 despite there being far less fuel in the exhaust. I will try the things you mentioned though, swapping injectors is a pain but it's getting to that point now...

Gave it a good "tap" and it felt pretty good around the block, got a clean second everytime which was promising. Time will tell as its so inconsistent its hard to tell.

Ok so the problem is unresolved and getting worse. Randomly I get in the car and the clutch is half way to the floor, pump it 5x and it comes good. Usually after I drive to work and get in the car 2 hours later, almost completely on the floor. No fluid is leaking and I can't see anywhere that air can be getting in. Could it be something up with the new clutch master I put in, eg the piston is sticking or something?

Nope. Can't narrow it down. About to try another ecu with my tune flashed in to see if it's an ECU issue. Pretty much ready to crush the car as the clutch issue is unresolved as well after dropping the box and bench testing everything.

Why is that?

Of course the desktop application isn't single threaded. The MPC565 however is single core, hence there will be no common deadlock issues. Eg everything happens synchronously, eg they get time splices, its not possible for two things to access the same piece of RAM at the same time, hence there will be no issues. Eg the PCM reads a table, then the UDS command handler routine comes in with new data and updates the RAM, then PCM then reads the updated RAM. This isn't like programming for a PC, it is embedded programming. The issues you are talking about do not exist.

There's no "allocation" as such, it's all stored on the heap well out of range of typical usage. Eg you set it at startup and it doesn't change. Also its entirely single threaded.

You can't so you do something tricky instead. Basically the code references the flash ROM to read the tables and determine the output values. What you do is change the ROM references to RAM. You then insert an init routine that copies the old ROM tables to the RAM at startup. Then when the engine is running your write to the RAM, the changes won't be persistent though so you then need to do a full write afterwards when you are happy. edit: You could also write random values and possibly crash the PCM, so there would need to be lots of thought put into it.

Anything is possible, you just need enough time and money! HP Tuners said live tuning would not be economical and when they did it for GM the profit from it was a fraction of what they get elsewhere and hence dropped it. As they only offered it for one strategy I can see why it was not economical, however if I can write an automated routine to patch any strategy automatically, then suddenly it does become profitable so hopefully it is something we can implement down the road.

Its about $1k delivered from memory. It is a good product to get started with and yes it will integrate with the territory. It's difficult but not any more so than any other large software project. The biggest challenge is simply the large amount of hours required to get it off the ground. For example I've spent the last month writing a web api to handle licensing and user data storage alone. It's just a lot of grunt work researching the best way to do things so you don't waste time doing it twice. Probably be over 1000 hours in the alpha release alone. I doubt you'd see change from 200k if you paid a software company to do it for you, and that's before you bring in even a single dollar of revenue. The difference in time required between a professional product and backyard hack software is massive. Probably spent more time testing than I have coding, and that's with a lot of free community support with people testing out my early proof of concept flashing program, thanks again for everyone that has helped btw!

I would like to down the track, initially I'll be offering live map tracing as this is still a huge improvement over guessing that what we are datalogging is actually what is being used by the map like we do currently. Live tuning is quite a bit of work and there is a lot of other basic stuff I need to get nailed first. Noob friendly is the goal, even experienced tuners can benefit from an intuitive ui with lots of help and explanations right in front of you. None of this reading 8000 forum threads to figure out where to start. That is the goal anyway, I'll do my best.

Possibly. Don La sota seemed to think he could get an aussie version but it would be a few grand. I would stick with hp tuners, cheaper and it can actually be bought. I'll have some software out this year, unsure of timing but it will be cheaper than both the existing options by quite a large margin.

You ever seen that happen before?

Ok got the car back and it is much much better but not perfect. I'm guessing the is just old syncros as they are still a tad notchy. However I get a clean reverse and first at the lights now, pedal feels much better as well. If I clutch in and immediately go for first I still get a slight bump if I wait a second it is fine. Clutch guy said due to the weight and size of the clutch assembly he isn't surprised it takes a second to spin down. I guess this is as good as it will get. Kind of wish I got an auto now! Anyone want to trade? Lol

Ok new coils made the idle smoother but it still drops cylinder six for about a minute then comes perfect again, seems random but more common when hot. I'm guessing an electrical problem somewhere as if it was a head gasket or something the plug would look average (it didnt) and it would always be rough. Where would you look next? Loom looks good but could have an issue somewhere. I'll try giving the connectors a scrub and clean.

He said there is no problems there and it is bled fine with no air getting in. Said if there was a leak it would self bleed anyway.

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