rollex

Can you remap the pedal throttle position vs actual throttle position on these cars? Eg make 10% throttle actually open the throttle by 20% so it doesn't feel so doughy? Is there any way you could make a 2d map with throttle position vs actual throttle servo opening, how is it done out of the factory, a 1:1 mapping? Does it limit the actual throttle position if you floor it at 1krpm in 6th or will it still open the throttle 100% if you flatten it?

Want to tune my car then? I'll pay in sexual favours

The guys who do it for fun in there spare time as a hobby are good because they are still interested and enjoy it so will put in the extra work to get it closer to perfect, problem is hard to find someone like this you know well enough to trust to tune your car!

Don't bother with the exhaust, just get the middle muffler deleted, sounds great and the stock exhaust is good for 300 Do it once do it properly with everything else, get ID1000s straight up for injectors, you'll probably want more than 300 once you get it, get an intercooler kit before doing the battery etc as you might limit your choices depending on who does the piping, most the intercooler kits have all this stuff anyway so no point doing it twice. Budget $6k to do it properly, I made a thread on this recently. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/88874-300rwkw-in-a-2007-bf-manual-modscost-stock-and-mod-or-buy-modded-example/#entry1495275

Did it fix it ?

Is it gearbox roll over noise? Does it happen at idle or only when moving? If only when moving could try putting it on a dyno and see if it is drive train related.

Are the revs flaring? Eg like a slipping clutch in a manual? Sounds like either the auto box is slipping.

Morpowa will do a good job as well, I basically tossed a coin. Simon does look pretty bored these days though, looked like he was a bit over it last time I was there!

Bruce Heinrich

Found someone on ford forums who had a tap made up for it and is also in Adelaide, will borrow it and get captain thread to redo it. Sounds like it is fairly common to strip these, like 5 guys who have said they have also done it.

Getting it tuned this week, not going to boost it until then.

Installed the process west stage 2 kit today, fits like factory and comes with all hoses and loom extensions to fit it up, had to drill 5 holes and it suggests cutting some of the bottom radiator support but I found it cleared fine without being cut so left it. Fantastic fit and highly recommended, took about 2 hours to do with a mate helping, hardest bit is doing up the hose clamps and the bottom with almost no room, everything else is easy. Intercooler is quite heavy with a lot of mass, hot to the touch on the turbo side and stone cold on the outlet even after a bit of a thrash.

So I installed my process west stage 2 kit today and when tightening up the new bracket the torx nut I suspect has cracked inside somewhere, it wasn't completely loose but I didn't want to remove it as it still feels like it is holding the piping in reasonably securely. Does this just hold the timing cover on or does it also seal the timing cover against the head? will this mean my timing cover will start to leak oil eventually? As this is an alloy head can I just get a mobile helicoil guy to come and drill it out and replace, or is it simply just to hold the cover on and nothing to worry about?

I don't know why they don't advertise the price and kits on their website, why anyone would go the others at $4-500 more? Maybe they make most of their cash from resellers who buy bulk.

Slave cylinder? This is what comes with the kit, unsure if that device underneath is what the slave looks like, do these boxes run an internal slave cylinder? edit: it looks like that is what the slave looks like so yes, it does.

It also comes with a new spiggot bearing and 11" flywheel for that price, much like the malwood option, so it is definitely better value.

That price is direct from NPC if anyone was wondering

Hmm the NPC 430rwkw option is only $1386 delivered, a lot cheaper than the Mal wood option 3+ at $1800+

Ok turns out I already have achilles atr sport 2 on the rear, 245x30x20, complete rubbish! 123 it is then!

Not worried about performance in the wet, you'll never put down 300+ regardless of the tyre haha, see how we go anyway.

Yeah, maybe I will get the 123s, I remember I regretted it on my skyline when I cheaped out, only an extra $80 but they will wear out in about 5000kms or less instead of 15000 that is the problem.

Oh that picture isn't my car, that was just an example. I'm just going to order the 8.5 +30 and 9.5 +35, saw quite a few people have fitted them without issue. Thinking of going an achilles 123S on the front (only make it in a 40x235) and the Achilles ATR sport 2 35x265 on the rear, should make help keep the balance fairly neutral and get similar tyre wear (220 semi-semi slick on the front and 400 on the rear) as the rears will get lit up a bit, see how I go, might get 123S all round next time if I find it isn't enough grip. Thanks for your help.

edit: whoops

Also just noticed that the ROTA grids only come in 8.5" +30 and if I want 9.5" on the rear I need the ROTA grid R +35 is a +30 8.5 with a 245 tyre on the front going to clear the strut?

Thanks for the info, I've read through most of those threads but a lot of info and some of it is conflicting, I guess as some people run massive stretch and others don't mind their wheels sticking out 5cm from the guards. Ultimately I don't like stretch and think a 265 is the largest tyre I would run so a 9.5" rear with +35 sounds like what I want. I've heard I will struggle to run much wider than a 245 at the front, so would a 8.5" with a 245 be best? If so front offset is the only thing I'm not sure of. edit: the 8.5" rota grids only come in +30 or greater