rollex

Yep, all fixed now. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/90663-what-is-this-knockslaptick-my-engine-is-making/#entry1548468

Was the gasket between head and manifold had failed completely, the dump gasket and a few others were average so we replaced all of them. All the noise are gone now, it also doesn't randomly get laggy anymore. So much better to drive, enjoying it again and don't want to burn the car anymore. #winning

Ok I'll take the heat shield off and see if there is obvious leaks or I can fit a feeler gauge in the gaps. Thanks

Does an exhaust leak tend to sound like a metal on metal slap like that?

that's what KPM thought and they tightened up every single bolt (they said exhaust cover was loose and 2 bolts in the turbo housing were missing) but the noise was 100% unchanged afterwards. I've tried jacking up the turbo exhaust cover with stuff holding it in place to arrest any vibration with zero change, it has definitely gotten worse in the last few days as well. I don't think it is the exhaust as the frequency changes with rpm, it sounds like a machine gun at 5000rpm

I posted a thread a while ago and also asked a workshop who tuned my car but no one really said anything as it was barely audible back then. Anyway this noise is getting worse and seems to be coming from rear of engine, the speed of the sound suggests it is a single valve/piston or something like that. It sounds too light to be a big end bearing but it could still be one. I've tried the screwdriver in the ear trick to see if I can figure out where it is coming from but can't narrow it down, the noise definitely doesn't sound good though, like piston slap. This noise has been audible to me for almost a year but in the last month or so has gotten worse and I can hear it at low revs where the engine isn't loaded up, before I could only hear it on boost where it was impossible to record. Can someone recommend a place to get an oil analysis done in SA? I want to get the oil analysed to find out if it is bearings or not. How good is an oil analysis for determining this? Oil has been in the motor for about 1800 kms Here are some videos of the noise (clutch is in):

Can someone recommend a place to get an oil analysis done in SA? Noise is getting worse and seems to be coming from rear of engine, the speed of the sound suggests it is a single valve/piston or something like that. It sounds too light to be a big end bearing but it could still be one. I want to get the oil analysed to find out if it is bearings or not. How good is an oil analysis for determining this? Oil has been in the motor for about 1800 kms I've tried the screwdriver in the ear trick to see if I can figure out where it is coming from but can't narrow it down, the noise definitely doesn't sound good though, like piston slap. I've tried recording the noise but you just can't hear it over the engine/exhaust noise with my phone. it is loud enough that you can hear it on the free way with your windows down next to the barriers, when on cold start you can hear it at idle if you rev it a little.

I don't know what it looked like before so unsure what is changed.

Link to photos? Throttle hang is what you are after, you can change it in the tune and it should help I haven't tried though. You'll notice during cold start it does it more already. Anymore information? I'm guessing it is not a simple (or cheap) change to rearrange the suspension geometry.

Are you able to find out exactly what was "adjusted" ?

Increasing the throttle hang would probably help as well, I'm guessing you can change this in the tune fairly easily?

So the tougher bushes are what causes it? I guess that is still better than using the stock ones and having them flog out every 2 seconds.

It is only in first gear, other gears are all fine no matter how bad I try and do it.

Yeah it is all the correct parts now, it did it before with the stock clutch as well I just notice it more as it is heavier and slightly harder to let out smoothly. Is disengaging too fast actually an issue?

The issue is when you are flat in first it is kind of hard to disengage slowly. When around town and in carparks I simply keep my foot on the accelerator ever so slightly so the car isn't engine breaking and it doesn't clunk at all. What annoys me is with a super heavy clutch I have to concentrate to do it which means it clunks probably 25% of the time as I don't always time it right. What will clunk every single time is if I'm engine braking in first and clutch in, it doesn't matter how slowly I do it.

I did have problems but it was sorted once the correct pressure plate was put in, it engages about 1.5" inch off the floor so it is definitely disengaging. Well at least I know the box and drive train won't blow up, but it is a bit clunky!

It feels almost like when you pull a car out of gear without using the clutch, is this the same thing you guys are describing ? Also whilst on the drive train topic my 2nd gear syncro sucks balls when cold, what are they like when new, smooth or still feel like a heavy truck box?

So even when new they were average?

It has king/pedders springs unsure which one but cheapies that are about 1" lowered, it does camber wear on the inside of the tyres though. How difficult is changing the CVs ?

I have a bf mark 2 xr6 t with 320rwkw and a heavy duty clutch, when I disengage first the drive train clunks sometimes especially if I don't time it right and it is deaccelerating or accelerating still. Really annoying in car parks. Car has 190,000 with me new diff bushes and bushes in the rear end. Any ideas where to look? It got better when I did the bushes but it seems like the super heavy pressure plate just disconnects the clutch off too fast or something or there is slack in the drive train

Anyone?

Went to repco to get a new PCV or inline nrv for the crank case but every product they sold I could blow through easily. My stock one I have I can't blow through but unsure how many psi I'm actually testing it to. Where can I get an nrv that won't leak with 16psi? At the moment I've just blocked the line and am letting the PCV vent to atmosphere to see if it stops using oil.

The stock ECU does such a good job I think any pros of having flex fuel would be outweighed by the cons of not having the factory ECU.

It has a spare analog input I'm pretty sure though?

I know a lot of the aftermarket ECUs like vipec etc can do this quite easily, can the ford ecu with an SCT do a flex fuel tune using an alcohol sensor in the tank? Normally they will do 4-5 tunes (E20, E40, E85 etc) and then the ECU will interpolate between the maps depending on the alcohol content. Curious if anyone here is doing it over the dual tune option and if so what hardware they are using. Cheers